what 20w led driver you mean? 20w dimmable only 300mA, and it can be 400 and 250mA. All my tables you can find here — Telegram: Contact @resistorSunLike
The non dimmable 20w (QH-LO20-5-13x2). By the way, I have modified a TRIAC compatible LED driver myself.
Here are the pics of modified:
Original:
Should put the resettable fuse on the Hot (Line) side, will fix that later.
Looks nice 
. But I advise you to abandon from ceramic capacitors completely. It happens that they go into a short circuit =( CBB much more reliable
For reusable fuse change varistor to 1.5-350CA supressor.
And add cbb to the output. 2.2uf or 4.7uf (63-100-250v)
I agree that CBB are much more reliable but I had to live with the limited space inside the radiator. Besides I use MLCC to compensate for the capacitance required and technically they have much longer lifetime comparing to Electrolytes. (Of course, X7R and plus). Add CBB to the output is probably OK but definitely not 2.2uf or 4.7uf ones since the output stage is a one-stage Valley Fill Passive PFC circuit which I still do not understand how that works. https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm3445.pdf
From page 19-20 typical applications. The is the detailed data sheet for LM3445, which this driver uses
there is space for CBB 1uf 63v and for 1uf 400v
I tried many of X7R and X5R. And now I try to do not use it by 100%, or use 50v10uf with 12-16v only
For the first pic the output capacitor has to have a voltage rating over 400v (valley fill circuit requirement) so may be I can parallel 0.47uf CBB next to the output electrolyte. For MLCC next to the input caps I used 630v rated ceramic and never expect them to have the same capacity under load. (As long as they do not explode I am happy with then). I usually mod High Power Factor LED Drivers (CE rated of course) and put a modded ripple remover in between. Perfect solution for both Power Factor and flicking.
For Ceremic capacitor you ONLY want to use X7R since they have higher temperature range –55 to 125 degrees and way less capacitance drift compared to X5R. But you still need to at least double the capacity when substituting electrolytes for MLCC. Like 20uf ceramic for 10uf electrolytes. TDK did some experiments regarding all ceremic capacitor LED drivers and they find that they need at least double the capacitance in order to completely remove the flicker. (It has something to do with the response curve and capacitance drift, anyways it is very complicated)
Real capacitance of X7R is 6 times, of X5R is 16 times. I measured 50v in my operation voltage ~35v.
So, if you changes 1uf of CBB or 1uf of electrolytic capacitor to X5R, you need 16uf, if to X7R, you need 6uf.
So, ceramic capacitors is shit.
OVER
I see
Unfortunately their shipping costs are a big deterrent, 60USD for 4 lightbulbs, they said there are no more affordable options.
I would guess these high shipping costs are high to encourage distributors to carry their products, not retail sales?
One could say these are pandemic shipping costs, but 1 year ago the shipping was the same.
If it is shipping from USA, so, it can be so expensive