Your batteries aren’t the problem. I say that with confidence because it’s ridiculously unlikely.
And neither is the connection as they are long 18650’s….which really only leaves the driver as the culprit?
Why not try connecting it with a wire? That will solve the question...
Assuming your batteries are, of course, properly charged, I’d say the problem definitely lies with the light. Probably the driver, but not necessarily. Could be some sort of connectivity issue.
You could try giving the top of the battery tube a good clean, maybe even a light sand (don’t touch the threads, just the very top of the tube that makes contact with the bottom of the driver), if you haven’t already. But at this point the whole exercise is academic if a replacement is already on the way.
I hope you get a good one.
Will be interesting to see how long it takes and if you get a tracking number.
The body of the King has to COMPLETELY seated in order for the light to work. Unscrew a hair and it won't turn on. A user on BLF discovered that if screwed together just right he can create an unintended moon mode which sounds like you are experiencing at times. It is possible that the tolerances on your King may be enough that the length of your cells may keep the rim of the body from properly contacting the head. Please try shorter cells, if you have them, to rule this out.
Oh, I totally forgot about this. This is a totally plausible and replicable explanation for what’s going on.
Ric solved my problem swiftly and in a way that was good for me.
I got a black NW SRK from the first batch . I pointed out that the driver was not the original SRK driver but an unprotected one (apparently better for modding according to some forum members).
No lanyard and a rattling button.
Now I have a new SRK coming my way from the second batch which shall have the original driver.
Of course it’s a bit disappointing to get a poor version first, but Ric solved it in a good way for me.
I hope there are no problems with my second light……
Im betting its the long cells.Ive had this happen.Didnt think until i read J macs post.My TM11 also is fussy with long cells.Weird i know,but my one is particular to a certain cell lenth.I have even had to put a spot of solder on some shorter cells for my TM11.I also find the Shadow JM26 hates my King Kong 26650 iz.Cant get a good contact.Works fine with Xtar 18650 iz.Again a blob of solder on a King Kong cell and it worked a treat.A little tip i got from my pal Gords on here.Just incase ya start soldering cells.Be carefull you dont over do it and cover the vents.Also make sure it a smooth finish,no sharp edges on the solder.As this will score/scratch/damage the inside as you screw it to the connection in the head.Have a practice on something first.
Hope this helps ya/anyone
Have a goodn
DON…
How much money does it cost CNQG to ship these lights out and I assume it’s the same price for the return shipping of a defective product? Say shipping to the US and or Australia for example. I’ve never really thought about this cost since I only buy from sites that offer freee shipping only.
To Slewfish and johnnymac’s point…Its vital that you screw the two halves “completely” for
the light to function. Playing with my SRK twisting the head a mil to the left or right will
completely disengage power.If your using protected cells this requires a bit of additional
pressure. When new the 4 springs have less play and make this even more difficult if your not
aware of the contact depth of the threads….
Good point Gentleman!!!
shipping to china is about 7$ on this light ..there is no deal for them on return shipping I'm guessing
i had a similar issue with my olight m3x, turns out 1mm in the length of the cells made the difference between the light working and not working.
So that’s a hit but I would think these cost of doing business is built into the price of the light. I’m making this too easy, but how much does it cost to make a SRK, test it, accessories, packaging and shipping it out? So the $15 lights we buy it cost $7 maybe a little less because of weight to ship?
Yeah, well…
Sometimes it´s just the odds. I mean, a Roche should be pretty high quality flashlight, but was DOA.
Hard to expect that happening after I have ordered at least 40 1$ lights, maybe 30 Sipiks and at least 15 head-lamps of the same model. They ALL have been working, every single one.
I would say the manufacturer of this class of lights should have good final check on these, not the seller, IMO.
…and even after a good QC, they just might break during the trip if there is something iffy in the electronics, that did not reveal itself in (probably short) testing. 
I tried this, I screwed it together so tightly, and it was still the same, like a moonlight mode with the occasional not working at all.
If I had other 18650 cells I would try them, but as I’m new to all this I only have the ones I bought for this flashlight (Panasonic Blazer 3400mHa)
I don’t really care what drives comes with it, so long as it has high and low modes and WORKS!!!
It’s a shame about the rattling button, it’s the only part of the flashlight that appears….flimsy?
I must have spent about 10 minutes screwing mm by mm, each time trying to turn it on, to no avail.
It doesnt matter how many times you try it. If it doesn't fully seat it doesn't light. You have good quality cells but they are not standard length. I avoid cells like that ever since I bought a pair of Xtar cells. They don't fit in all lights because they are too long and too wide. Is Ric asking you to ship the first one back to him? If not I'd love to take it off your hands for you. ;)
Haha, he is sending a return bag for it.
If the next one doesn’t work, I might have to try and find some from here (from Sydney) that will let me throw their cells in and see if they work.
I just got mine today, and it came with the box and logo and the people are absolutely right if it doesn’t tighten down absolutley all the way it wont work correctly