I wonder how a Kung with four XP-G2s on copper compares to a healthy King.
Got mine today and it sucks compared to my original SRK, easily 500 lumens weaker. Still a bright light but dissapointing with stock single toroidal driver. I hope the new SRK driver becomes a reality so I can justify this purchase.
My black kung measured with single PN3100 4.16v and lousy electrical cable as probe reads 2.4A only.
that DMM and cheap probes of mine read 3.6A of modded ZYT08 with 12x7135 driver (380 mA chip).
so it is way under driven.
however, the bare end of probe is giving instant heat and shock to my finger when measuring. never feel that before.
apart from the number, I can say this light is beast. super bright. can easily lit the living room with 5 meter height ceiling where I usually use 3 x 11 w Philips lightbulb.
I tried testing my Kung and kings a few times using the single battery and DMM leads a few times too, and always have poor results that way. It always reads low. So I usually use all 4 cells, wrapped up together, put a heavy but short 4 wire leads twisted into 1 wire little tool to contact the batteries, then use heavy gauge wire leads in the DMM itself. I get about 7A with the Kung that way. And I get 7-7.6A on the 3 Kings I’ve tested.
And the 7A makes a lot more sense than the 4.2A or so I got with the single battery and basic DMM lead setup. 7A comes a lot closer to making the appx 2100 lumens I tested the Kung at.
So now I test single cell lights with my stock DMM setup, but I always use the heavy gauge wires and all the cells for multi cell lights when testing tailcap amperage.
so we need 4 wires to contact on each battery negative pole and those wires connected to one DMM probe?
I might need buy 4 identical cells first. only have 2 identical cells now 
I guess the 7A also seems right as each emitter brightness looks quite similar to other single XML light than I owned which at least driven at 2.6A.
Thanks texaspyro, I couldn’t justify getting a Kung since I already have 2 Kings (completely by accident).
Can you post up a pic of the SRK’s performance graph/numbers for comparison’s sake?
Yes. I didn’t describe it too good. But I have 4 short heavy gauge wires twisted tight on one side and the other ends each contact one battery per lead. I need to solder the 4-into-1 lead eventually, but havent got around to it yet. So the DMM first lead contacts the big (now single 4-into-1) lead with one wire and then the DMM’s other lead contacts the outer ring on the lights driver. And again I use heavy gauge leads for the DMM itself.
since the battery is parallel, does protected cell like sanyo n panasonic able to discharge more than 5A?
I heard branded one like KP or AW can do that.
what leads are you using? (link or picture is appreciated 
)
I still can’t find a cheap yet flexible and low resistance leads for amperage measurement.
Most DMMs have a plain round socket and will take a standard banana plug of the right size, even though the original leads use a different style plug. Get some banana connectors, some 12AWG silicone wire, and something for the other end of the cables. Use banana plugs on both ends and you can make up different interchangeable probes for different uses - big fat alligator clips, normal pointed probes, a banana-to-XT60 adapter, or whatever you like...
You guys know you can just jam some stripped 12awg speaker wire in both holes of the Multimeter right? Then just strip the other side and boom, thick leads.
Me personally, I use a DC Current Clamp Multimeter from another hobby.
Edit: Sorry, wrong thread, I thought this was the DMM leads thread after reading the last post.
Hi,
I’d like to know how my modded kung is going, if I should expect more of it, and any approx lumens figures. It has xm l2 on sinkpads, copper shelf press fit, tailspring upgraded, anodizing removed at base, fet driver. testing with 4 fully charged ncr18650a. Multimeter was wired at one led.
I initially got:
1s 2.06a
30s 2.1a
1m 2.11a
1.5m 2.16a
2m 2.18a
2.5m 2.19 a
3m 2.22a
3.5m 2.21a
4m 2.24a
4.5m 2.26a
5m 2.26a
Then I tested low mode at 0.000752a.
I then wiggled multimeter wires and got 2.51a on high. So I guess figures above are restricted due to my poor multimeter connection. It was pretty warm at about 3m30s, but won’t burn you.
Should I expect more given the mods done? Thanks.