Dale/Djozz thanks for these tips on (not) melting switches, didn’t know.
So for the safe bypass:
1. Remove the switch first - with heat sink pliers clamped on tab near switch body.
2. Do all bypass work
3. Replace the switch - with heat sink pliers clamped on tab near switch body.
Sound right?
Yep, you’ll avoid a lot of melted switches that way.
I found some curved jaw 5” mosquito hemostats on ebay for cheap, a vet clinic was selling them off after buying new equipment. (ran em through the sterilizer before selling of course) I got 3 pairs of em as this size and shape is my main tool on the bench, the ends are fine enough to use on these switches and they work great for unscrewing retaining rings.
I’ve just tried it out on my S42, and on my C8, and it worked wonders actually!
Thanks for the advice of using mostquito hemostats! Are these better than snap ring pliers?
The snap ring pliers may be stronger but I never use them, I use stats like pictured for virtually everything. I use a short straight jaw hemostat to hold my driver board or mcpcb when reflowing, use hot air underneath then lay it on a heat sink to cool. I use the curved jaw stats to hold wires when I’m soldering them onto the driver, hold springs going onto the driver, switches and spring bypasses, solder wires onto the mcpcb, this 5.5” curved jaw is my go-to tool.
Does the straight one ridges on its pliers? I don’t want to steal my hemostat from my medicine cabinet, and I want to buy other straight and one curved too.
Would these ones be adequate:
Straight:
Curved:
I don’t see why not BlueSwordM, the 16cm straight ones would be good for holding a board with their longer jaws (easier to lock the handles with a 1.5mm board in the teeth of the jaws) and the 12.5cm curved ones are like I use all the time. Cheap enough, that’s for sure!
I WANT Titanium ones, but man are they proud of those! $160-247 for a single pair of small Ti forceps. Crazy!
Snap ring pliers may still come in handy for those odd super tight retaining rings, enough torque applied sideways to forceps can (and will) snap a jaw off…… ask me how I know. 
While I think most people will appreciate the step up in battery capacity, I feel like an opportunity was missed here. 21700 offers a small step up in capacity. Considering how much power these C8F’s can draw with 3 emitters, wouldn’t it have been better to go for 26650 for maximum possible run times? 26650 is well developed and the capacities are steadily increasing.
I do know a doctor which has titanium hemostats but they are 200$CA.
Also Temporary User, there are 5100mAh 21700s now, so the capacity is increasing more rapidly than 26650s already.
Don’t be fooled into thinking they are similar. High capacity 21700 can’t do high amps like 26650 can. We were discussing this earlier. If you look at a good high drain cell like Samsung 30Q then the 21700 equivalent would be the Samsung 40T.
There is too much size difference between the 21700 and 26650 to ever see them as equivalent. Even with the 21700 getting the best chemical mixes from the big 4 battery makers, it can’t match 26650.
When the 21700 gets to 4800mah and 5100mah capacity, the 26650 goes up to 6000mah and still does more continous amps.
This is a moot point now that Sofirn has decided. I just thought I’d point it out again.
Sofirn has made some good lights in a short time-frame. I own more Sofirns than any other light— but I got started later then most here with my flashaholic tendencies
I am glad to know a new driver is coming with the new C8F build and I’d like to see ramping like the Q8 has and efficiency/output comparable to their C8A- which still is my favorite C8 (single emitter) light, that draws a good amount of current making it well matched to the emitter used- hot-rodded form the factory- great C8. I feel if they try the XLP HI V3 in the new C8F, that they would really have a killer light… IF they can push it without failures (like the RevA C8F had). TBD I guess.
I am still waiting for driver tweaks for my custom C8F builds- ran into problems with my (Lexel’s) Narsil TA drivers which are back at the shop being looked over. But I plan to finish my own C8F triple XPL-HI (V3) direct drive build for my gun now that I got emitters in from KD (finally) last week. Just need time now to get that work done- and get a 1/3rd acre garden completely in (late as usual) :person_facepalming:
It looks like the LiitoKala 21700 4000mAh Lii-40A (Yellow) would be the perfect battery for this light. It does 15 amp continuous and is typically available for $5.
About $3.52 right now if you buy 2 (2pcs/$7.05) or $4.21 ea.
Looking forward to seeing what Sofirn does with this. Great news they will have dual switch / tail switch somehow available.
In the meantime I’m wondering what anyone’s ideas are for building one from the new host when it comes out. (Assuming there will be a host version)
Interested in ideas / recommendations for LEDs/driver/21700cell that would result in a considerable improvement in output over the current stock C8F.
I just remembered, the last time I ordered from there it took 63 days to the USA. :confounded:
I would probably go Banggood, 4 for $7.80 each total to USA. I might risk a super long shipping time for half the price only if I ordered really far in advance. 
With regards to the LiitoKala Lii-40A cell being considered a “perfect” battery for the soon to come 21700 C8F, it all depends. Those who are picky may complain of somewhat lesser output with such cell versus a typical Samsung INR18650-30Q which, in my measurements, delivered up to nearly 10A at the tail. Higher runtime, though.
Using a 26650 tube more widespread cell market would have been available, with the popular an inexpensive PLB 5000 & 5500 cells being sold nearly everywhere.
The Lii-40A is a Lishen “3C” cell, not really high discharge but certainly value for money.
One potential issue with high discharge 21700s is where to get them at affordable prices right now, the market still isn't widespread and a lot of the available cells for purchase in this class are being sold with unofficial wraps (you know what this means) at a pricing which… sucks. 
Cheers ^:)
^ what he said
Barkuti thanks. Interesting the description shows “40A continuous” Looking at HJK’s test, in conclusion he noted: “they may handle high pulse current, but 20A or more in constant current is not a good idea” And now you are saying it cannot even match the current of a 30Q! so the 40A continuous claim is basically an outright lie.
This makes me skeptical about these mfg. claims. So Lii-40A might not be good enough for even the stock light as you pointed out. If we’re getting less than 10A might as well use a 48G with much higher capacity.
Personally I think I’ll stick with Liion Wholesale, They are honest in their descriptions, tell you the truth about performance and randomly test to verify and guarantee authenticity, plus I get my cells in about 2 days shipping time.
For this light, if I don’t need more than 20A continuous I’m keeping an eye on their Vapcell 3750, their description shows a 24A continuous current, and it’s a much lower cost than the 35A Vapcell 3100.
EDIT: Alternatively the Efest 3700 (30A Continuous) from IMR seems like it’s in a similar performance/price class as the Vapcell 3750.
Compared to the Lii-40A from Banggood, paying about $3 more for a proper cell with much higher current seems like a bargain.
The Samsung 40T in 21700 delivers in a big way, but yeah, there are cells out there that will steer ya wrong…