Is the reflector secured by anything when assembled? Like maybe between the bezel and the head case?
Some of the C8/C12 type lights, the reflector is loose even when assembled and it doesn’t seem very durable.
thanks for the pics
As alluded to earlier, the reflector pushes against the centering ring and holds the copper pcb firmly down against the base of the pill. The reflector screws onto the pill, pressing onto the centering ring, the entire pill/reflector assembly then sits into the head held down by the bezel making primary contact at the base.
So, in the picture above, you have the head, the pill/reflector, rubber seal ring sits on the reflector lip, double coated AR lens (a good one as came with the head), the white plastic spacer, then the bezel. On this light, my bezel isn’t finished very well, actually has scratches on the outside and isn’t polished like on my M3.
I find it interesting that my S2200 order number added up to 9, which is the serial number of my S2200. Now this one comes in with serial number 99! lol
I might play with this one and try to get the amperage cranked up, don’t know how to do that but I’m interested in finding out. Might pull the driver and run it direct off 2 IMR 18350’s. Just cause. 
I have wondered if there isn’t some other compound or gel like substance that could be used in place of aluminum wrap to transfer heat more readily? And that isn’t too pricey. W the advent of liquid cooled emitters for home usage, the engineers realize for longevity that mere air cooling isn’t going to get the job done properly. Someone will do it for flashlights soon I am thinking.
I like the sound of what you have done to the M3, the results are obvious - and impressive! I have been underwhelmed w mine but hadn’t seen anyone else tackle it.
That 97 yard shot is very impressive for all of them. 97 yards in my neighborhood puts me about 8 houses over…I hear you about the heat. And the mowing.
I loaned out the K3 last night and that guy was blown away by it compared to what he had in his house… he was thinking alot more money.
Now I am imaging for the first time something like a triple MT-G2 and wondering if properly played, that would be the ultimate for me…or as good as my eyes could see and my nearby neighbors could tolerate!
Maybe cutting the Al area the driver sits on completely off, putting copper in it’s place and direct driving it off a couple of IMR cells for maybe 6A+? That should turn it into a little beastie for sure!
I’m checking first to see if that’s feasible, but I will probably do something if nothing more than getting rid of those puny lead wires!
With that small gap between the reflector and head, I’m wondering. What if….what if the reflector is glued to the head at the lip with something like Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Adhesive, after curing flip the head and use a syringe to fill that void with mineral oil, then lay a bead of Adhesive to seal the oil in. This would give 100% contact between the pill/reflector assembly to the head and utilize those ribs they’ve machined in.
Anybody think this would work? Or would it just be a PITA and leak?
The liquid solder I got at Radio Shack is a black thin liquid that has graphite in it and is electrically conductive. It would easily flow into this void and then solidify, which would avoid leakage issues altogether. It kind of acts like a glue, albeit a brittle one that will break…so if needed it might actually be removable but it would be a hassle for sure…not as much as if the thermal adhesive was used but still…
Hmmm, perhaps a combination of all of these. The adhesive to seal the rim of the reflector, then a 90-95% fill with oil, layer this think liquid solder on top of the oil (or silicone?) and let it set up overnight, then seal the base to head with adhesive. Wouldn’t be likely to leak and might be easier to disassemble if needed.
(forgot about the wide base of the emitter part making direct contact to the head, would have to seal that first then fill it with oil from the top around the narrow gap at the reflector lip, seal it then put the rubber o-ring on and let it set up.)
I have an MT-G2 copper mounted direct drive P60 dropin. On two Panasonic 3400 mah I get about 5 amps. On two 18350 IMR’s I got 7.4 amps for a split second before stopping. IMR’s will fry it quicker than you think, not enough internal resistance.
I was kind of afraid of that! Do you know if Panasonic NCR18650PD’s will work ok? Or is that IMR technology? Maybe I’d better stick with tweaks, instead of rebuilds.
Has anyone ran two 18350 IMR cells with the kind of driver this uses? I would kinda like to try that and keep it short with one tube. Run time would probably be 15 minutes or less on high though. 
With a driver the chemistry issue is nonexistent. 18350’s are mandatory with the shorty as RCR123’s can’t deliver the juice. I’ve got a three amp driver on an MT-G2 that runs great off of two-18350’s in fact no current difference between the Panasonic 18650 3400 mah or the IMR 18350 at any of the three level. I’ll test the SolarForce driver when I get it. Preliminary reports hint that it might need a new driver for a bit more juice, three amps really seems to bring out the led without too much heat.
I used Fujik on my modded M3 head (similar head/reflector contact), details with pics can be found at CPF (scroll down to post #95).
If you use a thermal adhesive/glue I wouldn’t bother with the oil idea. Besides the possibility of it leaking (even if sealed really well) it will make the head heavier.
I discovered, for the first time, how that rubber sealing ring goes! I too always thought the lens was supposed to go into the seat on the rubber ring. But, this light came with that step on the lip of the reflector, giving the glass lens a smooth flat surface to seal against! Now it makes perfect sense! Can’t believe I missed that before, lol.
Heavier? What about the tungsten lights Photon Fanatic makes? lol
I could care less about grams, ounces, or even a few pounds. The camera I use for hours at a time, sometimes 14 hours for a big wedding, is 4000 grams. What’s a little weight in a flashlight?
I wonder if I could seal the pill as planned, then fill the space with copper shavings from my OL challenge? Then seal the reflector end to keep all that fine copper dust from getting out?
I figured out that the last 3/8” or so of the pill is screwed on. So I cracked it open for a look.
It’s a double board, with that coil for buck closer to the spring
Another angle
Top side, towards the emitter
I’m planning on filling the core of this shaft with a solid plug of copper, maybe 2 (1/2” thick with 2) and replacing the driver with some help from a couple of folks here. I have parts coming, if all works well I’ll bump this from 1500 lumens to somewhere close to 2500!! Added heatsinking and tighter fit to the host should help control this lil beast.
Will keep y’all informed.
Can’t wait to see how that works out. I am so happy w this little unit…but, more power?! Absolutely. And if you can keep the heat under control…I am sending mine to your ASAP…
shipping lights to me…
So I decided to do my thing and tweak it. I removed the stock wires…all of em…and put 22 ga silicone sleeved wiring in it’s place. Looks like it worked wonderfully! Save for that tiny little Bar-B-Que’d piece that didn’t like my modification.
Doesn’t quite smell like Bar-B-Que either.
Anyone able to identify that little crispy crittur? It has 3 legs, 1 incoming and 2 out. Looks like it says A1DC on it. Reckon I gave it a little more than Solarforce’s engineers bargained for. So now I’m ready to get my new driver going!
My K3 is back up and running. That diode is apparently the reverse polarity protection. I removed it and put everything back together and it works just fine! 1.93A now instead of 1.97A, which is probably because of the larger wires. Learn something new everyday! Thanks Pilot, very much appreciate you taking the time to keep me on the right path! 
I liked the L2X aswell…
Me likes!
my 2x tube came from a Masterpiece Pro-2 w the MC-E emitter, the same machining except mine has no lettering. What are other people using? I will need to buy another body/w extension at some point.
I am borrowing a SF2200 (the guy wants to sell it) this week and wondering will I be impressed or not compared to the K-3? I am leaning towards not so impressed, unless I have the right test area. Everyone I have shown the K-3 too so far is way, way impressed.
I find I strangely like the K3, the output isn’t really powerful, it doesn’t go low enough, it doesn’t throw miles but I love it. The tint and beam pattern go a long way
blows the K3 out of the water. Pure and simple. It’s impressive on several fronts, the tint, the sheer output, the build quality, reflector size and depth, sheer size of the light. Not really any comparison to the K3 except they use the same emitter.
Edit: I should also make it clear that I love em both.
Edit II: I have an EDC+ Triple XP-G2 that has an OTF measured lumens of 720. Taking the K3 into a semi dark room and comparing them, it really is about twice as bright. The beam is a softer creamier white and actually has some hotspot as compared to the triple. A ceiling bounce really shows the output level, makes it obvious that it’s much much brighter than the 720 lumens of the triple. Wish I had a lux meter or was closer to someone with a sphere. I would like to see the numbers as compared to what I end up with after the mods I have in store.
Edit III: Sitting next to my K3, both on L2P hosts but the K3 has 2 cells, the K3 makes my M3 look bad and I’ve really been liking my M3 for quite a while! The style of it is better, with more of the oval indentions and more fins and those being on a taper. Same overall length of head, but the K3 is larger in diameter by about 7mm. I have the S2200, K3 L2P 2x, M3 L2P side by side on a shelf directly over my computer. Nice looking lights to be sure! Solarforce is doing some excellent work.