Soldering Iron Died - Needing An Upgrade!

Thanks. I like the build style of this one. $35 to get all 5 tips. Seems decent.

That is a Hakko 936 clone. I don’t know anything about that exact copy. The long discontinued Hakko 936 was a decent iron.

None of the clones are as good as the original. Some are terrible and others ok if you swap in genuine Hakko tips. Be sure to do safety checks before use.

https://www.hakkousa.com/products/soldering/936-esd-soldering-station/hakko-936-esd-soldering-station-6586.html

If you can’t afford a Weller, Hakko or Pace and you know how to check if it is safe I suppose it would be ok. The clones are generally not well made. You get what you pay for.

I use a Weller I bought at Fry’s around 1990 with a 230V base I bought in 2008. Weller discontinued the WTCP in 2019. Eventually I won’t be able to get replacement magnestat tips. Until then this is my forever iron.

+1 for the TS100, if you want mobility it´s great. Got mine for 40 bucks. Beeing able to use a Laptop Power supply or powerful PD-Powerbank makes it really portable. The tips it uses are quite good and there are some no-name replacement tips that work fine too.

Hello all, I've used most Hakko and Weller soldering irons. Personally I use a very expensive (I bought this for basically just the shipping cost, broken, on eBay, but I repaired it) RF Metcal soldering iron, and I use a whole bunch of Metcals and JBC at work.

This video shows the amazing performance of Metal RF irons: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FS2NqyVDoqk

But they are also extremely expensive (>$500).

Having used all of them, for the price, I actually think the entry-level Hakkos and Wellers don't offer too great a performance for their price.

If budget is an issue, I'd recommend this which I actually purchased and use frequently myself since it's very compact and temperature regulation seems decent. The price is the main factor at about a third of the cost of the hakko or wellers, so it's really good value. I find the hakko interface annoying to use - much prefer a dial. This no-name brand also heats up much faster than the entry level Hakkos and Wellers, and max heating power surprised me (when trying to solder wires to MCPCBs for example, but nothing beats a RF Metal soldering iron!). The only caveat is that I'd recommend purchasing genuine Hakko T12 tips to use with it.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955711791.html

I've been using it for the past 3 years or so when I need something portable.

I'm guessing the control system inside is similar to the Quicko linked above, but this one has a in-built power supply so it's just more portable to carry around and sits on the desk a little more nicely and doesn't move around when I'm using it.

That KSGER is the one I use. I have constant trouble with the tips, guess I should pony up for real Hakko tips.

I only have trouble with my Quicko when I tighten the retaining collar down too tight, otherwise it’s been perfect. I use an external power supply with mine since the internal ones are rubbish.

Weller doesn’t make any soldering irons worth buying for less than probably $1000. All their inexpensive stuff is garbage.

TS100 //KSGER is a really hard to beat device on 24v as it is essentially an inexpensive Hakko FX951 which is an excellent but much more expensive kit.

I personally own a Hakko FM-204 that I got used for FAR less than retail so I have extensive experience with the Hakko T12/T15 type tips. I previously had a Weller WES-51 which by comparison is garbage. Tips with integrated heating elements and temperature feedback will always outperform “old style” irons. The T12 style tips are kind of expensive but if you avoid lead free solder, the tips should last a REALLY long time. I haven’t replaced ANY of my tips yet and it has been several years.

I keep hoping that someone will make a KSGER style unit that uses actual Hakko FM-2030 wands and the larger T22 (140watt) tips.

For what it’s worth, the “quick change tips” on the FX951 (FM-2027) are really nice if you’re doing a lot of soldering. A few years ago, I got one of every color of the grip pieces and just leave them on my most commonly used tips.

I opted for the KSGER T-12. Many features and settings that cater to my needs. Coming from a Hakko 926, which is ok, but has a thermal lag. The air gap between the tip and heater does this.

As for the collet, light hand tighten only. The efficiency is unmatched - I don’t need any gloves when hot-swapping. The heating element is in the tip and is encased in copper to transfer to the actual tip. BTW, the collet is for the heater tip to not accidentally drop out - with continuous in/out swapping the clips do fatigue.

The only caveat I had was they inverted the ball switch (which detects inclination) in the handle. Took me an afternoon to figure why it couldn’t stay on standby. Also, replaced the bulky rear IEC connector/fuse with an appropriate HPN flexible cord and a standard AC outlet.

All-in-all, very compact and easily boosts the temp for the more thermal requirements. But only used since x-mas so time will tell if a sturdy companion.

Here’s the link to my purchase KSGER T-12 w/ 4 tips and a listing of available tips T-12 Soldering iron tips .
You can add a note to specify certain tips rather than the prescribed ones.

EDIT: You’ll have to change the currency. ~50USD

Why opt for 2.01? I read that 3.1 had some calibration issues and 2.1s seemed to be better?

I would not know of issues with the various versions. As I was searching there were some with v.2.1. Would version 3.1 change the interface? Typically the 1st # denotes the UI, the 2nd the structure (add/remove features) and the 3rd fixes of some bugs. Being v.2.01 I assume it is a draft and may have some problems. I haven’t encountered any yet. I did monitor the standby, sleep functions; the boost works for the set duration. There is some disparity in the method to get out of the settings depending on which sub-group your in - but that is negligible.
As there is no changelog attached to each version, hard to tell what were the issues.

But if you could better explain your findings…