SPK115 - OLE - tekwyzrd's handmade build thread for the 4th annual BLF/Old Lumens scratch build contest

The 105mm filter was delivered today. As luck would have it, using the 108.x mm disc for a inner diameter and two layers of brass at the bezel end I’ll be able to use jb weld or similar on the male threads of the filter and the outer edge of the filter will be flush with the surface of the head tube. This would allow use of color filters. The other choice is to make another disc 1mm larger and mount the filter back from the end to help protect the lens. It would allow me to add pieces of translucent rod that will pass light to act as an indicator if the light is on while headstanding and possibly pieces of gitd rod if I find anything suitable. Undecided about crenelations but leaning toward a smooth end. Not too keen on the idea of a black bezel so I’ll probably strip the anodizing. Plenty of thread to allow use of an o-ring behind the lens.

I was planning to post a photo update today but ended up converting half of the reflector housing to scrap. ‘Measure twice’ doesn’t help much if the first measurement is off and you don’t remove the incorrect mark. Fortunately I’ve refined the process and design so the final product will be improved. Wish I had a way to test it accurately because I have no doubt the output will be impressive. Think tm26 but with quad xhp70 and a round head.

Lack of updates does not mean lack of progress. I have been unable to upload photos to photobucket using the latest firefox for android but palemoon seems to work fine. Will post a major update when the radiator housing is complete. Taking a break today. Bending .040 brass and .050 copper is hard on the thumbs. Until then, here’s a photo of the nearly complete reflector housing. Joints are backed with .040 brass that will serve as contact/support points for the lens ring and heatsink support plate. 110mm diameter (excluding pins), 57mm high. Still need to do some file work on the pins. Minor cleanup with emery cloth but no sense doing a full cleanup since there’s more major soldering to come. The end ring is two pieces pinned and soldered. Tube is four pieces also pinned and soldered. Cut with a hacksaw, filed, and bent by hand into the rough shape. Pins hammered to expand/compress so there is some variation to the diameter.

Here’s a photo of the .050 copper rad housing in its current state, bent by hand. For some reason photo is distorted - both ends are bent such that they are close to identical and not tapered as photo indicates. This will house the p3 copper heatsink and 70mm pwm fan. Major revision: rather than crossflow the system will be an upflow from the tail with two exhaust ports to maximize turbulence and ‘soak time’ inside the cooling chamber to maximize heat transfer and velocity of outflow.

rad housing

reflector housing

I love the look of the brass with the copper pins. Once finished it ought to look really nice. A different approach is always noticeable.

+1 on OL thoughts. lt looks like real authentic medieval work. :+1:

I keep looking for a horse and lance.

The new name was needed to distance this from the impending Q8. Though the previous designation denoting quad xhp70 was appropriate, I thought SPK110 - SPK for Steam Punk King or Sky Punk King (as opposed to Sky Ray King) with the 110 indicating the head diameter in mm was a good alternative. It may well also indicate the number of pieces in this jigsaw puzzle. I’m sure the meaning of the OLE designation is obvious.

Current status: Waiting for the second 105mm filter to be delivered. The metal portion from one will serve as a sleeve to center the reflector assembly with the second with filter holding it in position with an o-ring between the lens and reflector assembly and lens and retaining ring.

I can’t believe I’m building a light that incorporates the features that came to mind when I first found this site - for a contest that ends basically one year later. With the daily evolution of this project I’m looking forward to holding the finished item in my hand and seeing what it can do.

Anyone with proper test equipment willing to do output tests when it’s complete?

edit: progress has been delayed a bit due to time spent on a couple of vehicles - a 1980 450SEL for my mom and a 1965 Corvair Sport Sedan for myself. Anyone interested in parts for a ’64 Spyder?

:rage: That moment when you realize that the reflectors moved as the jb weld cured rendering them useless. Time to order four more reflectors.

Ah yes, that moment. It comes in a variety of gremlinish colors. My condolences.

Thats not good at all. :frowning:

Wait, you can’t cut the JB weld? Are the reflectors aluminum? Seems there should be some way of getting them apart. But, I’ve never had to do it before. Sometimes the only way to really know that something is impossible is to try it and fail miserably.

I was able to rectify the situation. The reflectors were positioned with the edges touching and the area between the reflectors was filled with jb weld. With some careful cutting I was able to separate two pairs. After some filing they were reversed with former outer sides now in and a small amount of jb weld applied to join them. When it cures the center will then be filled and after that the filter ring will be used as a form to create a disc of jb weld with the reflectors imbedded.

Awesome! Glad that worked out for you! I hate wasting stuff, so I always think of trying to save even ruined things somehow.

The second uv filter may be here tomorrow. After it arrives there will be a major photo post. Currently considering the design of the hinges for the diverter to direct airflow away from the user (left or right hand use) and the lever to operate it. This project has become more of a challenge than I ever imagined, especially so since the only power tools used were a dremel (until the cutting wheel shaft broke) and drill. Just the idea of a thumb lever that operates the diverter and serves as a lock has me thinking so hard I expect smoke to start billowing out of my ears at any moment. Time for another beer.

I’ll ask again in case it was missed: Anyone with proper test equipment willing to test the output when this build is complete? By my estimates I’m anticipating 16k to18k lumens and somewhere around 750k to 800k cd.




i estimated the overall diameter after ordering the 105mm filter. good fit even if still a bit out of round.

That is pretty orsm looking. :+1:

Just a quick update. The head is nearing completion and the joined segments will be soldered after I pick up another propane canister. Much time wasted and small pieces of scrap brass converted to smaller pieces of scrap in a futile attempt to adapt hinges for the diverter. In the end I made hinges by wrapping pieces of sheet brass around a piece of 1/8” brass rod, bending the ends, and soldering another piece of sheet brass to the bottom. In the photo you can see hinge segments mounted. The copper strip between the emitter housing and radiator housing is a piece of #6 copper wire pounded flat on two sides. It will be soldered in place and when cool inverted and soldered from the other side to allow solder to fill the cavity. The emitter housing will be soldered to the radiator housing at the brass plates below the heat spreader and at the copper strip which should produce a strong structure.

It must take a whale of a torch to get a good bond.

When the canister I have ran out I started using the stovetop for heating parts to solder but at this point I need more control than that provides to prevent parts only held by solder from falling apart. Spring clamps holding parts together over the burner to heat up for soldering… crude but it works. I’m considering using a water bath at near-boiling to preheat the assembly and help prevent portions of the assembly from getting hot enough to melt the solder. After soldering I’ll add ice cubes to the water to cool it down enough to solidify the solder.

I know I have another canister here somewhere and would bet that I’ll find it immediately after buying a new one. The old torch I’m using works good for plumbing repairs. Copper water lines can be a pain to solder using lead-free solder if the torch doesn’t provide enough heat. Wouldn’t trade the old reliable for any of the little self-igniters they sell now.