Ooh! Ooooh!
Yeah, I got GITD keyfobs when those were being made from time to time (’oogle that at CPF, you may still find them). Those were made by mixing clear — not UV-proof — epoxy and the “Glow Inc. Ultra Green V10 Glow Powder” you can find online. That ought to work.
I may just put colored electrical tape around the head though.
Even a rubber band works well enough.
Have tried to play with the T25C I got a couple of weeks ago (to make sure it wasn’t a mistake to buy it for my 73 year old father, who really appreciated the XM-L T6 zoomie i gave him).
I am still a little unsure of the difference b/t reverse and forward clicky, but if the T25C is a forward clicky (whose switch appears to operate differently than all my other lights), I’m not sure I like forward clicky (of course, it’s more probably just not what i’m “used” to).
And getting to mode adjustment, I’m still trying to get a feel for just how far to press it to start half pressing to switch modes. When I get it, it’ll go smoothly, but I frequently struggle to find just how far down I need to go before I can start changing levels. Once I find that, STROBE seems fairly easy to access…but I have to get there first. So, hank, I definitely feel you.
On the positive, it is SUCH an improvement in build quality and output over the cheap zoomie with the fake Cree (LB whatever). I hope my dad is blown away and it brings him much use (and smiles)…as I don’t know that he’ll ever really want to changed modes…set that thing and turn it on and off.
I do wish that zoomed all the way in wasn’t a step back in relative brightness from stopping the zoom on the LED shaped beam…but hey. The holes, I too hoped it would be some effective close are illumination, but seems to be more of a minor nuisance with the occasional self-blinding.
QUESTION about max output
I bought 2 Efest Purple 18350 IMR specifically in hopes of seeing the significant “jump” from high to turbo (since some documentation says that’s the only way true turbo will be achieved) but I don’t see any noticeable difference on Turbo b/t those and my protected 18650’s (Orbtronic 3100mah protected and Panny protected).
Any of you guys that actually have it experience otherwise?
I figured the 7A constant output on those would suffice if anything would.
I mean, I’m sure I’ll probably just stick with 18650’s for my dad (gonna give him my Nitecore i4 charger after just getting myself a Lii 500…wahoo! ) but it’s the principle of the thing!
PS. Now I have 2 somewhat superfluous 18350’s. Any recommendations on a reasonably priced, pretty dang cool 18350 light or 2? 
PPS. I already have an Astrolux S1 with shorty tube…so don’t include that or A6 if you have any recommendations. 
I’d sure like to know if replacing the switch with a regular Omten would make it any easier to use.
I do like being able to zoom past the image of the emitter to a narrow fuzzy-edged spot.
Looking forward to replacing the emitter with something better — smaller physical emitter, better color. G2? Nichia? Thoughts welcome.
I’m definitely going to paint black over the shiny silvery holddown thing that holds the emitter, to get rid of the extra ringythingy stuff.
(Or see if by any wild chance someone out there makes a threaded holddown whatchacallit in the right size/threads to replace this one — I like those things, I see them used in a variety of lights lately)
If you don't mind doing an emitter swap, going to a smaller emitter like an xpg2, xpg3, or even and 219C should make a big improvement. Mine is able to go past the focal point. So I'm thinking of putting a small spacer under the base when I put in a new emitter. That will increase the diameter of the flood and still allow full zoom.
I pretty much always replace forward clickies with reverse clickies. Haven't done it to this light yet, but plan to.
A rubber band. Genius. Quick, cheap, easy, offers some extra protection to the host. Love it.
My T25C review is available in Hungarian language. This page contains google translator.
The images have been photographing international language