No problem my friend. I was just hoping it wasn’t a scam of any sort. I would have felt awful if we all got took on $19 V11R’s. Though I knew with PayPal all we would have to do is go through a few emails. I ended up with 5 of them. All working perfectly but, the lowest setting on all 5 are just a bit different from each other. I think one of mine went above a lumen or so but the other 4 were for sure sub lumen. One goes so low you have to really get your eye close to the lens to see it. I got three of them put back for Xmas gifts, I put one on the shelf to get into my EDC rotation and I put one away as just a extra to have around.
Good to hear that most people are happy with them. Just wonder if we will ever see prices like that again and if we will see any AA extenders pop back up for sale as well. I imagine they sold like hotcakes the last few weeks.
I was just catching up with this giant thread and was going through all of my old DX orders to try to find the grease, looks like the last digit has changed by 2 but probably the same.
Then I see you beat me to it!
My container says 112202 but: https://www.dx.com/p/lubricating-grease-50g-112204
But really, this stuff is fantastic on these control rings. Mine grease is 10 yrs old and it hasn’t separated or gotten weird. It is crazy thick with more resistance than the stock grease.
true, they do not show up
however, it DID happen, the OP has 5 of them
great stocking stuffers! totally intuitive UI
thanks for helping me understand that the lows vary
Ive been reading threads about the V11r for a long time, and nobody seems to agree whether they have 1 lumen lows, per spec, or go lower, as some people claim
Im happy for all or you to get a great deal, sometimes they are just good, and true, and this seems to be one of those times… imo its just a bunch of NOS being unloaded… nothing wrong with the product itself, even at your price of $39.99, they make great stocking stuffers, especially with an AA extender, there is one here if anyone wants it: (not affiliated) https://www.amazon.com/Sunwayman-V11R-Black-Extender-M10R/dp/B00BETQXY8
Another good grease to use for the control ring is Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease. That is what I use. I also have some XY-2 grease, but I seem to remember that wasn’t stiff enough for me.
I know a few of you guys went after the AA adapter. I use to have one of those but sold it long ago. The one I had came with an O-ring that did not fit very well (too big) and I had problems making electrical contact to the body. I had to use the spare O-ring that came with the flashlight. I just didn’t like the added length and additional joint and preferred the CR123A/16340 combination better.
I guess what I’m trying to say is that I think the only advantage to having the adapter is if you ever plan on using an AA or Eneloop. You do get about 100mAh added capacity with the 14500 but then the SWM V11R isn’t the most efficient light in this category and its attraction is mostly the control ring and variable output range down to a very low level. So if you have missed out on getting an AA adapter I wouldn’t feel too bad.
That said, I did pick up a bunch of these. Just couldn’t pass up on the deal once it was validated that you actually got one. But I was kind of suspicious of the whole deal. Perhaps it was new-old-stock. The boxes kind of looked like they had been handled a lot. Would also like to thank toddcshoe for pointing these out.
congrats
I dont blame you for being suspicious, glad you got some and it worked out well
the main reason for AA from my perspective, is as a stocking stuffer… non Flashaholics are more likely to swap an AA, than Recharge a 16340
I otoh, am in love with 16340 and do not use AA, even though I have them in both Alkaleak and Eneloop… I prefer the shorter form factor of the V11R without the AA Adapter. The basic V11R w 16340 tube, is already twice as big as my other 16340 lights, Olight S Minis. Even though I have size Large hands, I like 16340 and AAA lights, better than AA and 18650, for my personal EDC.
Then again, a V11r loaded w a CR123 makes for a really nice glovebox light w No Parasitic drain… I think I might need to buy one… hmmm…
I saved the link from that one Ebay vendor that offered the V11R for $16.88. There was 2 in the auction I purchased from. Then he offered 4 more in another follow up auction…… Man, I hope it was legit. :person_facepalming: Haven’t received a shipping notice yet either. :person_facepalming:
Don’t Worry, Be Happy!
others have received their lights, its legit
some people are reselling at $39.95, which is still 50% below full retail
this is normal
After conmissions and shipping, this leaves a meager profit of $15.17 per unit…
thats how capitalism works
I see the same thing when shopping for other things on ebay,
sometimes a Vendor dumps a large batch of items, and they get snapped up and relisted at double the price.
.
fwiw, lacking any light meter evidence, Im shipping out my RRT-01 for modding to SW45 today. I will share my light meter results when it comes home
IF anyone gets light meter readings in the interim Please let me know how much a V11R drifts when modded to sw45
I could cancel the mod to my RRT-01 if I learn the drift is greater than 20%
Little behind on replies on this but here’s two answers to questions I noticed:
16340 battery does about ~575 lumens on max. I think an eneloop battery was 125 or maybe even less.
the middle/lower end of the ring will vary in brightness and climbs sometimes when you dont even move the ring. Once the light warms up it seems like the same position of the ring is now ~15-20% higher than before
I do still get a pretty good full range of sub lumen to max (no flicker) with mine.
The V11R may be low-output by today’s standards, but it is still a great light and at sub-$20 it was an absolute bargain. Even at $30, it’s still a bargain.
That said, technology has moved on. For instance, comparing my neutral-tint Eagtac DX3B Mini and the V11R:
Size - they are very similar in size, but the Eagtac is a tiny bit narrower, shorter and weighs less.
Interface - The V11R has a magnetic ring and forward push button. The DX3B mini has an electronic side-switch with nice UI. Both UI’s are good, but it is easier to change modes in the V11R. On the other hand the Eagtac feels more secure in the hand when using one-handed operation.
Modern features - the DX3B Mini has an illuminated battery charge indicator and a built-in USB charging port. Neither feature is present in the V11R. Hower, the V11R has a moonlight mode which the Eagtac lacks.
Tint - the Sunwayman has a cool-white XML2. The DX3B Mini has a neutral white CREE XHP 50.2 with beautiful rosy-neutral tint.
Power Supply - the Sunwayman runs on CR123, 16340, and with adaptor 14500. the DX3b Mini runs on 16340 and 18350
Output - here is where the Eagtac wins hands-down. The Eagtac’s maximum output with an 1100 mAh high-drain 18350 is around 1800 lumens out-the-front. Compare that to around 500 lumens for the V11R on 16340 or 14500. Simply put, the Eagtac blows away the V11R in max output.
The V11R is a great light, but I’m finding little reason to put it in my pocket when the more modern Eagtac is so much more powerful.
my issue is that the drift gets larger with an N219c
20% is not visually noticeable, with a 219c 3000k the drift was 60%, and I CAN see that
soo… I really wish somebody, besides me, would put a modded V11r w N219b 4500k on a light meter, cause Im just about to mail my magnetic rotary to a modder for that LED swap, and Im hoping it wont drift as bad as a 219c
One tip with the V11R: Never put the battery in the wrong direction.
I did that accidentally with a Sunwayman V10R. I accidentally inserted the battery in the wrong direction and turned it on for 1 second. No light came out. I instantly turned it off and reversed the battery.
That one-second with the battery in the wrong orientation caused permanent damage to the light. It still worked, but the smooth ramp from moonlight to max was gone. The ramp pattern had changed. The new ramp pattern went from off through various levels of moonlight for 70% of the ring’s travel. Then from 70% yo 71% it went from moonlight to max. And the remaining 29% it was a max.
It was no longer practical to try to adjust the light in medium modes so the damaged light effectively had just 2 settings: moonlight and max turbo.
I agree the UI is awesome
I also Love my RRT-01, but cannot stomach the Tint of the stock LED
left to right, 2000k E21A, 4500k N219b, stock RRT-01 “cool green”, stock Novatac “cool white” w light green corona
do you have a light meter, and can you share what LED you installed, and what percent drift it has?
to determine drift, turn on the light to about 100 lumens on a light meter, then rotate the light, not the control ring, 180 degrees… what is the greatest and lowest lumen level?
in my experience, the V11r will continue to drift UPWARDS in lumens IF I start from a lower level and ramp UP and then let go of the dial
the opposite is also true, iow,
IF I start from a higher level, and turn the dial to Lower the brightness, the light will continue to drift Down after I let go of the control ring
watch the video I posted in post #270 of this thread, you will see that happening…
bear in mind the Video is with an N219c, which greatly increased the amount of drift, that continues in either direction, after letting go of the dial
basically magnetic ring lights are not precise, they are not fully regulated, at any level
it is still a great interface, but with a 219c, I was going nuts, cause I had to keep dialing up and down to narrow in on the brightness I wanted…
my take away was that the drift was a relatively small number of lumens, IF used at low levels, like below 10 lumens, but up around 90 lumens, the light adjusted itself by over 60 lumens total change… ie +–30 lumens… If I wanted 90 lumens, that was simply NOT going to be possible… I found that unacceptable
here was the lowest it reached, and the highest: Note I am only rotating the entire light, I am NOT changing the control ring in the video… the light changes brightness based on whether it is facing North or South… I put the piece of paper on the tail, just to help you see that the entire light had been rotated by 180 degrees… it does the same thing if I turned the control ring, but I thought it was particularly interesting that the light would change brightess without touching the ring at all, simply changing its position relative to the earth magnetic field… Fun Science, but not very useable, for me.
That is a 50% decrease in brightness from 120, but also a 100% Increase in brightness from 60
