Thanks for the update! I'm not positively itching to get the xml2 version :)
Hopefully it also has a copper plate in there... and can be pushed a lot more :D
So I know Wayne (VinhNuygen) is modding these over at CPF to boost the drive current in the 3 highest modes but being greedy he doesn’t share any details about what hes doing to accomplish that. Would I be able to stack AMC135’s myself? I can physically solder/stack them but is that all it takes or is there something else required to boost the current? Would I be able to do all the chips so I boost all the levels or are the lower 3 modes driven by some other part of the driver other than the 7135’s? I don’t have any use for low levels in a light like this (but I’m not complaining that it has the low’s cause I know its personal preference) so I wouldn’t mind a increase across the whole range of levels.
AMC7135’s ???
are you sure you are talking about right driver? because driver from K40 doesnt use AMC’s at all…
You would boost the current by adding SMD resistors to the driver.
More about that here: Here is how to mod the ThruNite TN-31 flashlight...
I’m pretty sure the TN31 is a Supbeam OEM, so the innards and the circuit should be very similar.
ThruNite's TN31 changed absolutely nothing but the emitter when they went with the XM-L2. I'm expecting the same from Sup Beam.
That would be great news. Personally I'm going to have mine modded regardless to make it a monster thrower - more so than it is stock.
I'm definitely modding mine. I'm doing TN31 mods and getting 345-370 kcd on a 5A mod upgrade, de-domed, but will be trying 2 resistors to get 6+ amps that should do over 400 kcd. So the K40 will do a little less, but the driver design is exactly the same, it appears, so the same resistor mods should do the same thing, though lower results because of the smaller reflector.
For me it it's ~300kcd+ I'll be happy.
Ultimate goal is something like this I suppose...
Should be do-able. I'm guessing 300-320 kcd on a single resistor mod, de-domed, wire upgrades, AS5 under the star -- that's bout it. I'd also reflow the emitter before de-doming, because too many bad re-flows coming out of HK/China lately.
That I wouldn’t buy any more lights for a while. Geesh this thing has enormous potential! Not at all bad as it comes but with some mods, oh wow!
Does anyone know if there’s a dielectric layer between that huge copper pcb and the emitter? If so, it’d have to go, or be modded itself.
Yeah, I’m subscribing as I’ll end up having to get one of these bad boys!
I've been testing them for continuity and does have continuity, so I assume it's direct path. However, AlexGT scraped down the thermal pad -- don't know why. Posted on his mod thread but he never responded. I wanted someone else to confirm this, seems like I'm the only one I've seen post about it. Also you can see the layers bumped up on the surface, and appears there's nothing there under the pad... I just wish I could get some confirmation - I'm no EE so not sure if my simple continuity test is sufficient.
I’d hate to lose that large copper board if it wasn’t necessary, but the Noctigon pad could always be put in if it’s determined it’s needed.
Guys, i have a K40-L2 coming in the next few days. What battery can you recommend for this beautiful light?
TIA
Well, funny this thread popped up. I actually bought this light from MosesM on CPF marketplace a while back after he had done a few mods to it.
I am running mine on some of the Panasonic Flat Top 3100mAh Protected cells from fasttech.
This light is pretty forgiving, and spacious, so any quality battery will work.
Personally I find the 2600mAh Sanyos to be the best in terms of quality/mah/price.
Might take a while to get your batteries if you order from fast tech, if you need your batteries soon, I suggest one of these guys;
Thanks InfinitusEquitas. Those are the exact batteries I was thinking of. I have several Samsung 2600mAh unprotected Li-Ion batteries now. Can I use them with “caution” in the meantime?
No reason you can't. Just check voltage on them after extended use, so you can spot any batteries that are not as good.
NCR18650B unprotected lefr and protected right:
Thanks InfinitusEquitas. I actually check the voltage on all my batteries regularly, even those I use in my single-cell lights. Once a battery reaches 3.5V or near that, it goes to my charger immediately.
Sirius9
Now this one does not need any explanation. Thanks Sirius9