Cree’s XP-E and XP-E2 datasheets do not show a performance difference between the two generations of red LED that djozz tested (as far as I can tell). Unlike the white gen2 series where 85c is used to test Gen2 instead of 25c on Gen1, yielding roughly similar flux numbers, Gen1 and 2 of color XP-series LEDs is shown at 25°c.
What’s interesting here is that when djozz tested a gen1 vs gen2 red XP-E, the Gen2 was still better.
Any special tips or best advice on doing the soldering of these little tiny emitters onto a Sinkpad?
Those contacts are only separated by a hair. I’ve seen OldLumens’ video of doing it by heating the Sinkpad from below with a soldering iron, and I’ve seen someone’s of slowly heating it in a frying pan on a stove.
I’ve got an infrared thermometer, so I can manage temperature control — in theory.
But I wish I had a hot air gun I could set to the right temperature and heat from the top instead of underneath. I think.
A propane torch turned very low worked for me.
Hm. Well, as I said above I’d dropped in that XR-E amber from Fasttech, just straight swap for the one that came in the light.
Stock driver.
(Didn’t glue it in in, just pressed it down snug with the plastic washer, same as the original emitter, silly of me, I should at least have tried Fujik goop)
Last night — for the first time — I ran it for about 15 minutes straight on high level, ceiling bounce.
It got pretty warm, but no noticeable problem with it.
Today it started to flicker (with a NiZN 1.8v cell); switched to a 1.2v Eneloop and the flicker went away, but then the brightness dropped drastically, went back to bright, went dim again, cycled a few more times and it’s dead.
So, I guess I overdrove/overheated it. Should’ve
This is a hollow pill light, the emitter just sits on a rim inside; I’m puzzling how to improve on that.
Maybe it’s “just” a dead driver. I put that in quotes because the 15mm drivers these things come with seem to cost as much as a whole SK68 on eBay (~$4). Grab your DMM and put it on diode test mode (triangular diode symbol w/ line, use Google if unsure). Check the emitter with that.
Seems more likely to me that it’s either a physical problem or a bad driver than the emitter dying from heat in this config.
I’m not sure what you are saying.
Belated answer, one I had trouble with had melted its plastic battery carrier so the wires disconnected. Overdriven, uh, yeah.
I know I’m a few years late, but what’s the maximum safe continuous current for the XP-E red? I have 6x AMC Biscotti driver but I think I might have to remove an AMC chip or two…
I also got these Red X-PE from FT,plain to put one with stock driver sk68 and s2+.
But they have low Forward Voltage not sure if AMC driver is adapt for these Leds
maybe member with more experience can help