If you say so… i measured 20,400 lumen @ turn on for the mt09r… whats your opinion on it?
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube / Sphere No math skills needed - Several spheres still available
I don’t know what your asking.
Your specific MT09R is a custom built light. Factory specs do not apply.
I found where TA measured the factory 70.2 MT09R CW at 14k and NW at 15k lumen on his original lumen tube. We can now adjust his readings by .68 to get 9,500 and 10,200 lumen. This is way below the factory rated 15k lumen spec.
So your light is now double what it was factory. :+1:
Mine is not factory., it is modded with TA driver, upgrade xhp70.2 5700k, and bypass spring…
TA was being very conservative with his lumen ratings. The stock MT09R 5000k I measured 2,140 lux compared w/ TA modded 4000k 80CRI at 2,740 lux, which TA rated at 22-23k lumens. My stock TA tube measured the modded light at 27.5k lumens (coincidentally it was giving same number as my ceiling bounce lux). Therefore if I use a 0.68 calibration factor, I would be getting 18.7k lumens for the TA modded MT09R and 14.6k lumens with the stock MT09R 5000k. TA did say he thinks there might have been multiple emitter bins for the 5000k and I might have gotten a higher binned one but we don’t know for sure.
Haikelite mt09r is more powerful than olight x7vn. Both are modded with xhp70.2. First number is turn on and seconds number is 30 Seconds.
Mt09r TA 20000/ 18000
X7vn. 19000 / 17000
As a matter of fact, skylumen rated 21000 for the x7vn, and i got 19000 lumen…
The point i am trying to make is TA tube with two disc is reading about right…
I don’t think TA was being conservative with the stock light measurements. He has no reason to be.
I could only find a couple of his old factory measurements, though.
I’m sure he could tell us the range of measurements he got when testing stock MT09R’s. I have long forgotten that info.
My point was that regardless of the company or model of light, you always have to be skeptical of the factory specs. This is why we test stuff in reviews. We don’t just blindly accept what the manufacturer says.
Some things are easy to test like temperatures, amp draws and candela. Other things are much harder to test such as lumens, but that is a lot easier now.
I think you completely misunderstood what I was saying.
Moving on jason.
You still don’t get it?
From post #786:
My point was that regardless of the company or model of light, you always have to be skeptical of the factory specs. This is why we test stuff in reviews. We don’t just blindly accept what the manufacturer says.
Some things are easy to test like temperatures, amp draws and candela. Other things are much harder to test such as lumens, but that is a lot easier now (thanks to the TA Tube).
When did i ever believe manufacture lumen rating ?? You are trying to sound like i worship mauufacture number…
Post #779. You said the TA Tube was good because it matched Manker specs.
No biggie, maybe I am the one who misunderstood.
Yes… what i am trying to say is manker did a great job on the ranger mk39 rating.
if manker rated 2500 lumen. Then yes. I will be very concern…
TA was conservative with rating his modified lights. It would make sense for him to apply that same level of conservatism to the stock light readings inorder to compare the stock and modified lights on an equal basis.
Ok, everyone no reason to get up tight over some lumen readings.
With the stock lights I was not nearly as conservative as I was with the modded lights. I still round down but I don’t then take it down even further.
I saw everything from 13k to ~16k on the factory MT09R with most coming in around 14-15k on the old calibration (aka, around 10k real lumens).
After mods the gains were around 50% higher on average depending on the LED tint, bin and lottery ect.
Ok. I have to post this… maukka tested his astrolux mf02 cw and he got 2170/2109. I have a mf02 NW with lexel driver, and I got 2070/2000.
Like I said I am not comparing numbers or achieve high lumen… this tube is working out great…
Doesn’t that mean your tube is reading too low? Lexel driver is supposed to increase output.
Also did you swap the driver yourself? If so, how hard was it to unscrew it because there’s supposed to be lock-tite on the threads?
No sir… lexel mentioned his driver doesn’t increase output… lexel driver will make better interface… if I have time I will look for the post… lexel recommends to swap the led… but my mf02 is glued so I am struck with stock NW.
For me I think the main purpose of my tube is to measure gains from modifications. I’ve been quite content the last couple of days just comparing different configurations. I gained 100 lm in an S2+ by swapping the tailcap out with one with a spring bypass. Before it was trying to measure current increases when possible, but now I can know for sure if those copper screws or sanding and polishing are actually worth the effort.
I think somebody else mentioned something about a car dyno comparison. But it’s true. You add $3,000 worth of bolt-ons with a custom tune thinking you’ve gained 250 hp. Then you find out you only gained 75 hp when you strap it on to a dyno. Still a nice gain, but you just can’t add together all the claimed hp each component is supposed to give.
[quote=WillyD]
For me I think the main purpose of my tube is to measure gains from modifications. I’ve been quite content the last couple of days just comparing different configurations. I gained 100 lm in an S2+ by swapping the tailcap out with one with a spring bypass. Before it was trying to measure current increases when possible, but now I can know for sure if those copper screws or sanding and polishing are actually worth the effort.
THAT seems like a purpose for the sphere. Thanks for sharing that.
The current stock MF02 driver is pulling 2.7A. The Lexel built driver does 2.5A. So you get a little LESS current, but much better user interface and reliability. Not to mention you can set it to 2A for extended use while the stock one is limited to 2.7A and whatever the High setting is (1A?).
Also, on boost, buck and constant current drivers where you have a fixed amp draw, NW emitters tend to read a bit lower than CW. This is the general consensus. I don’t have any identical CW and NW lights to compare.