The issue with the bottom AMC7135 is that the battery tube could be too short again. 
But the sniff Battery+ Spring on the old driver schould be thicker than the AMC7135.
This driver is designed to replace the factory made S42 driver so it being inverted doesn’t matter in that case. People are welcome to build the charging circuit if they want it as well.
Honestly I don’t see the AMC’s working at all in this light so I am not that worried about it. I only put them on to give people an open source option if they wanted to use them.
With no thermal path to the body the AMC’s are basically guaranteed to overheat and throttle the current, rendering them useless anyways.
I am thinking more and more I should just remove the AMC pads from the production driver.
Yeah, it is one of the worst drivers I have used in a “modern” light that was over $10 I can remember. Heck even the basic 5 mode drivers are better.
Yep, that is another issue I am worried about. I am thinking it would be best to just leave the 7135 pads off the production version to keep people from even trying to install the 7135’s. I just don’t see them being worth the hassle.
I designed a driver replacing the original driver keeping the slave board
I did the AMC output extended with a lane on top side to cover the thin part
Also tested mine to fit the bolts fine so your holes are too big
with smaller spring pad the AMCs could be moved deeper to center so the ground ring completely gets contact with the tube
Nice, we can really use more drivers with integrated charging.
Though the ultimate goal would be power bank function…
Yes but since this is a factory made driver it needs the full sized spring pad so that it can use a full sized spring, so that is not an option.
Although the tube should still clear the 7135’s as it is, the 7135’s are 19mm OD, just like the tubes ID. I could actually move them further out so that the tube would rest on the 7135’s ground feet, this would give a little more clearance for the cell.
Using the stock charging board sucks since it either has a high parasitic drain or the LED’s do not work properly. This new charging PCB works properly and should have less then 5ua of parasitic drain.
It all boils down to the 7135’s not being a good idea for this driver. They put out a lot of heat and the heat has no where to go since there is no thermal connection to the body worth speaking of. So the driver will heat up and cause the 7135’s to reduce the output in order to keep from overheating. I have seen this many times before when bench testing drivers. Particularly with low Vf LED’s (which is what 4x LED’s look like to the driver).
This makes the 7135’s useless as you would actually get better regulation with the normal FET since it is only slowly effected by voltage but not quickly effected by heat.
I am still debating weather to leave the 7135’s on the production driver or not. If Banggood doesn’t have an issue with them, might as well leave them I figure.
don’t you consider the tube not part of the body?
Add more viases on ground ring and exposed top side ground ring would improve cooling
with top side ground ring the switch and ind LED pads should move further inside and should get more clearance to the bolts
Like I said, I plan to leave the pads for the 7135’s on the driver unless banggood has a problem with it.
They won’t be populated though, no reason for it with a factory driver, it would just add complications and possible issues. Plus they can not reflow those pads with a pick and place machine, too much chance it would not be aligned properly. Most fab houses will refuse something like that.
Thanks for the tip on the Copper rod size, I never had time to take the drivers apart, so I didn’t realize they neck down on the ends.
That frees up a little space.
I designed the viases for the rods with 2.2mm works fine
For a TA17 driver running bistro, is there a substitute part for the D1 : Schottky Diode SOD-323 I can use? Both digi key and mouser are out of stock. I did just order some from aliexpress but I would like to build it sooner…I plan to use it in either a Convoy S2+ triple or Eagle Eye X6 triple with a lighted tailcap.
You can use the Diode for Bistro HD OTSM
I am not building OTC based drivers anymore
The only thing I disagree with is thinking he TA logo is not a big deal. I think the TA logo is really cool.
Why?
OTC? Been there, done that, ain’t going back. OTSM is much more consistent.
OTC has issues with timing when hot
does not like lighted tail caps
OTSM you have always consistent timing, hassle free, easy to operate in all cases
just 0.7$ more material costs for the Tantal cap
You use tantal caps? You need it for lighted tailcap?
OTSM C2 0805 6.3V 47uF
first 25 used
I use those now
https://www.mouser.de/productdetail/vishay-polytech/t58w9476m6r3c0150?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YcCFJ%252bQso3ogFhnrOeMeAcA%3D
Thanks. The ones you use now are even slightly cheaper than the TDK caps I have. When I run out I’ll get me some of these.