The CREE "Angular-Tint-Shift" flaw syndrome..It's causing brain damage.

I have really liked the LH351D’s lately. Swapped those into some of my recent lights… very nice beam.

I hope to check those out soon. ( have not tried any yet.

At the end of the day, if the tint shift is not an issue for Cree’s main market (which is not flashlights), then I doubt they’ll change.

+1

Have always liked the MT-G2

I think we all should boycott all Cree Leds (except for the MT-G2) (That will send our message!!!)

Or will they even notice?

I’m still hoping for XP-L HI in the FW3A, but with a frosted optic other emitters look okay too. And other emitters cost less.

I’ll just buy a FW3A, and swap it Samsung LH351Ds in it.

I’d love if Lumintop provided the option directly though.

I have checked the 4000K 90CRI Samsung LH351D in three hosts now, a Sofirn SP33 with 30mm smooth reflector, an S2+ which I checked with both smooth and OP reflector, and a E2L with triple narrow Carclo TIR.

In the Carclo I found the led a bit over-floody, with better beam than the XP-L Hi but not flawless.

In the 30mm smooth reflector the beam is really nice.

In the S2+ I could not use the smooth reflector because the beam was ringy with a couple of tint variations (yellow-ish in the hotspot and corona, rosy in the spill). At least the rings were way less visible when shifted to an OP reflector, the beam is now agreeable.

Regardless of which host it is in, this led has the best tint when over a couple of amps. Below 1A the tint has less red and more green (the Luxeon V shows the same phenomenon)

So if a high CRI led is an option for the FW3A I’m not in favor of this led, I prefer Nichia 219C’s even though the output and efficiency is a bit less: better beam in a TIR, more pronounced hotspot and no hint of green when run on the single 7135.

I’ve been trying to put together a poll for FW3A emitter type. Djozz, do you think LH351D should be on the list?

My favorite options are XP-L HI and Nichia 219c high-CRI, but there’s also XP-G3. And maybe XP-G3 high-CRI. And maybe XP-G2. And maybe Samsung LH351D.

The rainbow effect may not be a huge deal on this host because of the 10511 optic, but it would be very noticeable when using a 10507 optic. The 10507 makes everything look bad.

I think a few more people should report their findings on the LH351D, but some will like the big flood combined with good output, so yes, put it on the list.

This is what we camera nuts call purple fringing, I guess. When white light is refracted, the blue/indigo/violet parts get thrown towards the periphery causing this. It’s really expensive and difficult to correct this in camera lenses so I do believe it would be a real challenge in LEDs, especially neutral and cool white ones.

I personally vote for the LH351D.

Not only is it a great emitter, its cost and efficiency are excellent for a 3.5mmx3.5mm emitter.

Well exactly. Yhe HI versions of Cree emitters have the lowest coronal discoloration and the most even tint in both spot and spill.
Too bad the buggers have such high Vf.

This is also why I think that the Cree HI leds are not only very well suited to throwers, but to all types of lights.
You get a little lower output but much higher quality light.
I especially like the XP-L HI V3 3C, beautiful tint with a good amount of red (to my eyes that is).

Still, I like the Nichia NW the best.

Grtz
Nico

They are just fine in my Surefire quads and triples , they put more light then any Nichia will. I get on some of my builds just over 7amps, using VTC5A, 21700 and some 20700’s push them over the 7amp limit, some I have been using for over 2 years and all are still working to this day! You can keep your Nichia’s! :smiley:

Where do I sign up for the class action lawsuit? :stuck_out_tongue: