Any 2000+ Lumens light that does not get hot either has lousy heat sinking indicating that it is overheating internally or has a massive head with lots of cooling area and all of the soup can lights I have seen have pretty minimal mass and cooling fins. If well designed with good heat sinking and with decent output they WILL get HOT! The more output the more heat. A simple matter of physics!
I have seen critics of the SupFire M6 as being too heavy compared to the SRK but the added mass and good thermal conductivity of the design allow better reliability and slower overheat time. I have two RMM modified M6 units and considering the output am glad for the added mass and good heat management.
I just ordered the Fandyfire version from FastTech for the $37.64 price. Interesting to see how long it takes as I have had China shipments tale anywhere from a week to a month.
Based on some of the posts here I will check the battery springs board for missing/loose screws as soon as the light arrives. I just replaced all 4 screws on a six LED SRK clone as the heads were totally buggered as received from China and barely snugged down. Noticeable improvement in output. The SRK takes 2.5mm x 5 or 6mm flat head screws in that position stock but I used pan head torx drive stainless steel replacements. Two other SRK clones of recent purchase are only tapped for two screws for the spring board.
My SupFire M6 lights are so much better constructed than the SRKs and my recently arrived Solarstorm T3 and T4 lights that I may just give up on the alternative brands.
The Fandyfire Warrior arrived today, 7/21 so it took less than 10 days to arrive from when ordered. Very fast arrival for an order from China IMO. Clean machining and finish and I like the inset side attachment point for the lanyard. Overall a very clean looking light for the price and the silvery grey finish definitely looks different. Tail cap not glued so came off easily so it should be a simple job to add braid to the battery rear springs. Looks like the battery contact board in the head is pretty well glued in though.
Physically very close match in size to the new Solarstorm T3. The outside diameter of the head is about 2mm larger than the T3 but the reflectors look almost identical. The T3 battery compartment is .5mm smaller in diameter and overall the T3 is about 3mm longer than the Warrior.
The T3 is definitely brighter both factory claimed and based on ceiling bounce simultaneous comparison. Also the T3 head heats up a lot faster. The LEDs in the Warrior are warmer output. The T3 LEDs are definitely very cool with a definite blue edge around the beam when viewed bounced off of my white ceiling. Per FastTech the T3 color temperature is in the 8000-8500 K range which is very cold. I like the variable output ramping feature on the Warrior and overall prefer it’s user interface though I wish the ramping went a lot lower than it does. Both good lights so far so to me the choice is if you want more output or a bit warmer light output and which user interface you prefer. Beam patters appear to be virtually identical in shape.
The head heating on the T3 is enough faster than on the Warrior so that I think you could safely use the Warrior at maximum output level for considerably longer than the T3.
I’m very happy with this light it isn’t the lumen destroyer that the j18 is, but I like the total control over the modes that you get with this light. Its very well made. Even though it’s bulky, it still fits in y bad pocket when I need my hands free.
Hi. I own a warrior and am not a fan at all. Heatsink is poor in my opinion. It consists of a thin plate ( 1mm - 1.5mm thick) that screws into the body. The battery tube of my light was glued too so could not be modified. (I totally regret not buying the surefire M6… ;( ) the stock warrior has visible PWM and low is not very low.
I have the original with the XML U2’s in stock form and I must admit the PWM on medium and low is a killer for me. I am not normally affected by it but in this case (or my version) is really bad and I hardly use the light. Other than that, the build and modes are great even if it has blue buttons. Pity as I was really looking forward to the light and being smaller than a SRK, it is easier to carry. I will probably get an M6 at some point as it seems to be an improvement on both lights.
I agree with the PWM, thats the only really think i don’t like about it, though i can live with it. It would be nice to find a suitable driver than can work with the two-button electronic set up that don’t have PWM. Fortunately there was no glue used on the body part on mine, and i already modded it with N/W XM-L2s.
I might retire it to the Display case once my X40 arrives.
The stock M6 has noticeable PWM I believe but the RMM Mountain Electronics version does not. Per a post by Richard today all his customized lights have PWM frequencies of 9.4KHz or higher. Those I have tested using a fan did not have noticeable PWM. Also the new T3 and T4 Solarstorms did not have noticeable PWM.
I thought I share it here since there are quite some Warrior fans out in this forum. I don’t know if anyone found it before, I can’t even remember how I did or if I just read it somewere.
I just got this AR coated lens form KD, it’s a perfect fit and a nice upgrade to this great light.
My luxmeter is on it’s way, so I can’t help with numbers. But it does look like a propper AR coating. The glass appeers clearer than my original one.
I think Johnny Mac said 2,153 lumens, if I remember right. I'd say that is a bit optimistic based on my personal experience. Mine I love, but it is very blue with a mysterious yellow after-glare. Now that the K40M is around (which totally, totally kills it, btw), I don't use my Warrior as much.
I still like my warrior. Not as much as I did as more and more lights coming out these days are very bright. But the main reason is I hate having to hold switch to turn on/off.
I’m gonna see if there’s another driver out there to fix this issue
Hello, the driver of my warrior burned out. It is the most expensive flashlight I have, and the only one who went bad!!!!! Fasttech is the typical crapy chinese store, they don't sell the driver alone. So where can I buy a replacement driver?
Is this driver the size of a SRK? (46mm)
2 buttons and a row of indicator LEDs, could be difficult to swap driver on this one.
I hope Tom E will chime in here
Hello, thank you.
Sorry, what is OP?
I think not, 44 mm, 3 parallel batteries.
I don’t care about those tiny bits, just want to fire the photons.
Maybe I can get a 44 mm plain disk, and do DD?
