that host looks pretty damned good, I just built up an a8 clone pretty much the same as this build, I just used an 80+cri xm-l2, I love it to bits, good modes, still fairly convenient size, awesome tint and colour rendition, my blf a8 will be getting the same treatment soon with a couple of stacked chips and a 90cri xm-l2 on Noctigon, the runtime is the key though, its just so much more useful.
My little small sun. With DrJones Lumodrv.
Ramping, hidden strobe, battery indicator and beacon... Can start on very low if you want, or in one of the modes, remembers the ramping you set it to. Can be set to do momentary. Have programmable modes. All the goodies! And with 3,8A+ to an XM-L2 of your choise, mounted on copper and AR coated lens.. Build cost. Around 30$
Wider spill than the Eagletac makes it great for walking outdoors. But much better throw than a Zebralight as far as I know. Can outclass a stock Eagletac in both throw, spill and output with de-domed emitter. Or just outclass it for everything close-midrange with domed emitter.
Tiny, stupid bright, cheap, sophisticated, advanced and likeable UI combined with a great beam.
End of discussion... :bigsmile:
(yeah, its stupid hot if you run it on high with that much current, no nanny turbo to ruin the fun either, J) no retarded stickers or anything :p )
Apologies for the dumb Q, I looked at the pictures and not the review 
I think I’m going to try this as my first DIY, so bored at the moment!
which driver you use for this hellish mod?? so many amps…? probably used very good lion i think…right?
hey that palight v60 is good looking. much better than ultrafire wf2100.
found any review of it? although it's an old gen XML, the main worry will be the battery choice.
update: found small review here. it is a turn off..
Tried out both of those palights, and hated them. The quality of the v60 is excellent, the problem is the inconsistent tap to change modes interface. That, and it heats up ridiculously fast on high... if you leave it on and forget it for a few minutes, I have no doubt the light would kill itself.
The M900 I didn't like specifically because of the quality.
For what's it's worth, I'd steer clear of these.
you post right before I edited my post.
after reading post #55 and #56, it just no so good to be owned :D
anyway for those who still interests in this light, you may want to see the one in here. cheaper, U2 and 3 modes only. don't know the quality though, just found it now.
DrJones Lumodrv with 3 extra 7135s. Protected 18650PD, so capacity and safety is still there. :)
Needed to copper braid the driver spring.
I remember hearing about a tan light that was small and inexpensive - might have come in two colors ?
Help?
only 1 amps…? too less…
the tailcap is not working or not working right??
The V60 doesn't have a tailcap/clickie. Just a solid battery tube with a spring inside. It worked, just didn't change modes consistently.
so how you change the modes? with the head moving?
Here are variety kind of LED lighting, hope to help you~
Hey haccblack, welcome to BLF, if you're a commercial seller, please read the BLF rules..just a reminder...
The way you change modeson the palight V60 is ....Like a light that has a spring not big enough or too short of a battey ...By bumping the back end it changes modes ..Same as if you jarred a light with weak springs ..It actually works pretty well .
you're right ....you can also loosen and tighten the head ...but the light was made to bump for mode switching ..Sort of an odd one ..and one you'd never use as a bike light :P
small and good looking though
Boaz already answered, but basically just by bumping the tailcap. With either your hand, or on something. The problem I had with mine, is it was highly inconsistent with what kind of a bump is needed to initiate the change. Sometimes a slight tap would set it off, other times, I found myself tapping it really hard, and not getting any changes.
Personally I would have greatly preferred a traditional switch at the cost of another half an inch, or even full inch.