Yes, that is correct. I forgot about that. Confirmed that this feature made it into the UI.
i think it did.
what’s the value of the 100% 7135’s? constant output over the life of the battery?
About 140 lumen depending on led (See post #124).
If I bought from Mountain electronics, could I possibly not have the one with the 0.3 Lumens moonlight? They changed their site since I purchased it. Seem brighter than 0.3 on my XP-G 4000k light compared to my many other moonlights. Thanks!
I think I know what happened.
Initially with thermal regulation, it worked but it didn’t check to make sure the light was actually on before stepping down. So if I got it hot, waited for step-down to start, then turned it off, it would turn itself back on at the level it would have stepped down to. Oops. So I made it only do regulation if the light is actually on. Problem solved.
I hear that a few lights were shipped out just after this even though a final version hadn’t been approved. It sounds like you got one of those.
Later testing revealed there was still a related issue — if it went through a specific sequence of events (turbo long enough to trigger step-down, off, then moon within like 2 seconds) it would continue to step “down” along the original trajectory… even if that meant going to a higher level. So I added a check to make sure “down” is actually down, and added a directive to make sure it won’t cache the value.
After a few more days of testing, no further issues were found. So the release candidate was approved and is now shipping.
To solve it, it needs to be reflashed. Or there are two workarounds: Either ramp a little to change the level it thinks it’s aiming for, or loosen/tighten the tailcap to force it to forget a cached value.
Completely agree! The only light I like in copper is my Lumintop Toolvn. Otherwise they are just way too heavy to pocket EDC.
I’m not sure what the throw is for XP-L HI or XP-G2. I’d imagine XP-G2 is probably slightly lower than 219c since it’s virtually the same apparent emitter size with fewer lumens. XP-L HI might throw slightly farther, but I don’t think anyone has measured it yet.
Mostly, XP-L HI is more efficient so it’ll give more lumens and less heat at the same power level. However, it also has a more pronounced square corona, and mine has a slight yellow tint at the center of the hotspot.
… Would be interesting if you could flash via micro USB. Post sale correction of firmware would not require sending the light back physically anymore: just send it via email, and plug your light to your computer. And who know, user friendly software for self programming the light might be feasible in the future…
Thank you for your reply. Yes, just tested it. Was wondering why it was not doing it all day today and then by running it on high for 10 seconds, and going back to moonlight, it triggered it to happen again. How would I get if flashed?
Simplest way is probably to just email Richard at Mountain Electronics, explain the problem and ask him to reflash the firmware. You’ll need to ship him the light to reflash it though.
If you want to reflash it yourself, you’ll need to buy the hardware and learn how to do it. I haven’t tried myself, but I understand you’ll need basic soldering skills, a $15 cable to connect to your computer and some free software.
That’s unfortunate. I have the opposite results here — whenever I order from RMM, packages show up a day sooner than scheduled. This happens from both of his origin points. The only problems I’ve had are with my local delivery agent, who has a bad habit of delivering things to the wrong address.
Maybe there’s some sort of issue with one of the intermediate transfer points along your delivery path. 
Like maukka said, be careful with that. It will require a thicker O-ring, or perhaps an O-ring on both sides of the lens, or some other way to make up for the difference in thickness. The important thing is to keep pressure on the MCPCB for good thermal conductivity.
Yes. Loosen the tailcap, tighten it, then click.
Thanks for pointing that out! Good thing I saw this post before I tried the emitter swap tonight.
I have some sheet copper. I’ll probably just cut a piece into a disk, drill a hole in it and insert it between the star and the shelf (with AS5 on both sides).
2 questions:
- Is there reverse polarity protection?
- Light accepts flat top and button top unprotected cells (~67mm). But is there are preference? Perhaps button top is a bit on the tight side, or the flat top feels a bit loose?
Thanks!
It actually doesn’t pause there at all. Each ramp level lasts for 16 ms (60 fps with one “frame” per ramp level), and the 100% 7135 level has the same duration… but on that particular frame it spends about 7 of those 16 ms not making light.
Without the reference blink, it’s nearly impossible to tell where the channel transition point is. It’s just a smooth blend from moon to sun and back.
There is a way to go directly to the 100% 7135 level though, and it was put in on purpose. 
Great job tweeking the UI ToyKeeper. I love the smooth fast ramp! :innocent:
TK I have had two day shipping from Richards on a few occasions: the three I remember the most were the three different convoy lights I have received. On separate occasions I received my C8 , L6, L2. all in two days, when 3 days was the estimate. Maybe the usps are convoy fans?
LOL. Data sheets?
Good one.
Hey, could I interest you in some ultra-high-capacity Ultrafire batteries?
The moon level varies with emitter type, battery voltage, and just in general on a per-light basis. Consistency is very low when operating at the edge of its range, and pretty much every brand has consistency issues with moon and firefly modes.
I measured anywhere from 0.3 to 0.8 lm depending on the parameters I put into the test. If the firmware is tweaked individually for each light, a lower level can often be achieved… but using something lower on all of them would mean some are fine while others don’t light up at all.