Why are the XP-L numbers so low?
my delivery from intl-outdoor.com got stuck somewhere. Don’t want to wait more :(. Unfortunately something went wrong with the tracking number and he can’t give me one. Sure I paid the $2 for it.
After reading this thread for a long time it’s a pain to wait longer.
Just pulled the trigger on a green 3D. I will use it with 30q or GA so no point in ordering additional tube. The light is very small as it is at least on paper.
A thought about D7…what would happen if one stuffed it with 7p XHP35 and 6s 18350? The LEDs would die, right?
This just got released https://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/emisar-d4vn-smallest-18650-quad
Any idea what is the optics mod? It seems to reduce output because the loss of 1000 lm doesn’t come from dedoming.
Anyway, I expected vinh could do more. Shows how great the stock light is.
Those VTC5A’s make a huge difference in Vinh lights too (well over 500 lumens in my TN40vn versus VTC6), so using another cell will see further reductions in lumens.
When I built up the D4 yesterday with the Dsche quad mcpcb, I used a strip cut from copper sheet to make the crossover on the positive feed. This is visible in the center panel between the TIR’s and covers the other wiring, so all you see looking in from the top is this strip of copper.
For those not familiar with this board, the crescent moon shapes have to be joined from across the board to get positive to all the LED’s when run in parallel. The negative trace separates the two sides.
(Pic borrowed from a search online)
There is usually a fairly substantial loss when de-doming, and in this case it’s multiplied by 4. So a 250 lumen loss in a hot rod light can easily turn into 1000 lumens difference overall. XP-L’s don’t fit into the TIR of the Carclo optic, now, if one were to find XP-L W2 or XP-L2’s, these fit, albeit tight. I only had 2 left, so I couldn’t try em. Sure would be interesting to see what 4 of the XP-L2 could do in this light. 
Might hit 5000 or more with the right cell. Yeah yeah, sure, it’d get hot… goes without saying.
But this is 30% loss. I really don’t think his dedome is so bad.
Ahh, Vinh, finally providing an option for the horribly underserved quad-TIR thrower market.
Ok, I don’t see the point, but variety is the spice of life, and I’m sure he’ll sell a few because he’s Vinh.
Another option is this cheap holster from Mateminco/Astrolux:
It fits the D4 well.
Actually it has nice throw-to-size ratio and nice output. So it is a competitive thrower. And I believe that for some users 70% more throw at the expense of 45% lower output would be a fair trade-off.
BTW, it reminds me of STO S2+:
I use one of those and it works pretty well, but some might consider it a touch too big for the D4. The velcro on the top is long enough for you to adjust it for a variety of lengths so it will work.
I’ve got a couple Convoy holsters made for their tube lights and hope they might fit a little more snugly. If not, the Astrolux is a fine choice. Made nicely too.
I can quit anytime I want to… I just don’t want to yet. 
In spite of only getting about an hour of sleep last night, I took the D4 apart all the way this time, removed the 09NE2LS5 MOSFET and replaced it with a Vishay A20DP. Also swapped the 22ga leads for 20ga. Then I put the original MCPCB back in with Nichia 219C’s on board. The result?
Sanyo “A” 25.21A for 4522.95 lumens
Sanyo “B” 17.27A for 4191.75 lumens
A lot of swapping around for 131 lumens gained. But hey, it’s what I do… right?
Edit: So that’s what? 6.3A per emitter? And 1130.74 lumens each? I need some XP-L2’s……
6S because you will have a huge amount of sag due to 7 emitters in parallel? If leds nevertheless die, in that case how about 5S + 1*(18350 Dummy)?
As long as you’re getting the 12V the emitters need and not surpassing 2.5-3A, they’d be fine. 6S would require a buck driver, 4S works better and they might actually run direct drive with that many pulling on a single FET. Would be interesting, for sure.
I’ve got 4 35’s in my TM16 making something over 7000 lumens and it’s pretty neat.
Seeing as how this IS the D4 thread, I think maybe someone got excited about new model possibilities that have yet to be released?
Size and mass, if you’re gonna go big on lumens you’re gonna need somewhere for the heat to go. Like with this Emisar D4 pulling 25Amps from a 20700 cell…. well, it’s not very realistic.
what is the default for the thermal configuration, and how does one get back to it if they have played around? Is the default setting the one that protects things the most?
thank you, this kind of thing is very confusing for some of us 
The light’s thermal sensor is not calibrated. This means that the light doesn’t know what is its temperature exactly (from memory, there’s more than 10 degrees of tolerance). So the default is just a default, don’t bother with it. Calibrate it to whatever you’re comfortable with. And don’t worry, it’s just as safe whatever you pick.