Do the reset, unscrew the tube slightly then hold the button down while screwing the tube back in. Really cool! I shot a video but can’t figure out how to upload it, seems something has changed in the last couple of months with YouTube…
The limitation of Nichia emitters was set at some 85% of full power on the FET as far as I can remember… this was because they trend towards making a lot more heat and can self destruct. The primary .hex file is NOT for the Nichia emitters, full power for the XP-L’s and such. Since I swapped my Nichia’s out for Samsungs I was wanting to get rid of the limitation anyway, this worked out perfectly in my case.
Did you flash the Nichia specific firmware? http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex
I think the thermal code is good enough to handle full power Nichia. After all we have been making FET Nichia triples forever.
I did not. I was not aware of this other file. I'd like to have ToyKeeper confirm the necessity of using this file on my D4V2.
When I first built my Titanium Reylight X6 with 4 Nichia’s it pulled 21A from a single 18650 and made 4300 lumens, got hotter than Hades very quickly! I rebuilt it fairly quickly omitting the Nichia’s. Ironically, it now houses 4 XHP-50.2’s and uses 2 18350’s to makes something over 10,000 lumens. Go figure.
ToyKeeper states, in post number 89 under the heading Configuration, that the Nichia firmware is limited to 75% in Turbo to prevent it doing damage to itself.
Specifically…
The ceiling level is configurable, but double click while on goes to full turbo. To change that level, you’d need to modify the firmware.
On the Nichia 219 model though, turbo is limited to 75% power. This is to reduce the risk of the light damaging itself.
Interesting, so even the original firmware was slightly different from the non Nichia models?
I think it was done in the original D4 as well, it was discovered that some of the Nichia emitters were frying themselves at full power on the small light. I was sent a warning through PM by a friend here when I stated that I ordered this light with Nichia’s, he knew I like full power and reminded me of this revision. I wasn’t worried about it as it was the rainbow auxillaries that drew me in anyway. Ultimately I changed emitters and welcomed the switch back to full power when I reflashed it this morning.
Edit: It’s pretty well known here that I leave very few lights stock. I try, but what can I say?
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-07-18.emisar-d4v2-219.hex
I reflashed my D4V2 again, using the Nichia specific firmware. Sure enough, that brings down the max lumens values to what I saw before the update.
If I understand correctly, it should be easier on a Mac. I don’t have one to test on, but I think the process is something like this…
… and then it should be able to run avrdude commands in a terminal. If it’s a new enough version.
So far, it looks like the options are:
- Windows (7 / 8 / 10)
- zadig + a recent avrdude
- libusb + a recent avrdude
- avrdudess?
- a recent version of AVR Studio?
- Windows 10
- Windows Subsystem for Linux? (plus “apt install avrdude” and some commands in a Linux container)
- Mac
- “brew install avrdude” ?
- other?
- Linux
- Debian: apt install avrdude
- Red Hat: dnf install avrdude
- Android
- ZFlasher AVR w/ USB OTG adapter
I’ll definitely need help with documenting the easiest ways to reflash from each major operating system.
It’s changed by default, for all build targets which don’t set their own value. And none of the builds in the repository set a value, so they’re all a little faster now.
All configuration is lost when reflashing, including the temperature calibration.
So after doing the reflash, it’s a good idea to do a factory reset. Let the light settle to room temperature, then hold the button while tightening the tailcap to connect power. Then keep holding for ~3 seconds until it does a bright flash.
After that, the temperature sensor should be calibrated and the light is ready to use.
While waiting for a double mochiatto frappachino at starbucks.
I have a Mac around here somewhere… If I have a spare moment this week, I’ll flash something with it to verify the process and write something up. I have some aux boards from Lexel for the FW3A coming in, so maybe I’ll try it for one of those installs. It’ll be a while before I get my HQ programming keys… I had to re-order them with the correct thickness. The process for flashing an FW3A is basically the same though, as long as the version of avrdude is new enough.
TK, I really like the idea of a required hold to get out of muggle mode, yes… they click fast and furiously to find out what it can do.
Please do not change the unlock behavior, I carry an FW3A or D4V2 now everyday to work. If I unlock it, it is because I want it on and need light!
Has anyone gotten a D4v2 with sst 20 5000k emitters from intl outdoors. Im thinking of getting one but was worried about the green tinge, or just stick with xpl high 5000k.
Thanks
I agree that there needs to be some consistency between different lights having Anduril. Therefore, please don’t make unnecessary changes. But changes with muggle mode are necessary. However,I would NOT want 6H as the method for getting in and out of Muggle mode. Why? Because it is too easy to miscount when trying to configure your auxillaries (7H), so that with one fewer click, you accidentally, end up in muggle mode (6H). Conversely, you end up accidentally configuring your auxillaries. if you click one extra click when trying to get into muggle mode(6H). Since muggle mode isn’t a high use mode, how about 10H. This would prevent a Muggle from getting out of Muggle Mode, while keeping an experienced user from making mistakes with the auxillaries.
No offense intended but in my experience a flashaholic can count to 7.
we are up to 13 clicks lets just make a “click configuration mode”
it can iterate through 5-6 things and you just assign the number of clicks you want to it 
That is the number of weeks before tracking from China starts to work right?