You select it as if it were just another color. When you cycle through the colors you will see two multi-color options. The first cycles slowly and the second cycles quickly. The first is the actual rainbow mode. The second is the battery power indicator.
To set the auxiliary mode from off, click 7 times to advance to the next option. The sequence is off, low, high, and blink.
To set the auxiliary color from off, click 7 times and hold on the last one. Keep holding while the colors cycle until you see the one that you want, then release.
Put a mostly full battery in and after the rainbow cycling if it turns blue, you are there. Blue is so far past that in the cycle so you will know you are in the “volt” aux mode.
I think I like this new version much better, and if you wish to purchase my earlier models, I have two still in the box. One is a silver SST-20 5000K and the other is a Cu/Ti Nichia. Both have the accessory 18350 tubes. I have a third one also, but it has been pocket carried and has some scratches. I’ll probably keep that one in my tool kit.
I would have replied sooner, but I’ve been offline for two or three months due to a family emergency that has kept me out of state.
I didn’t even know there was a new version until yesterday.
Just got mine today.
I really wish the Chinese flashlight makers would all go out of business.
Every time I get a new favorite light, another one comes along to replace it.
At this rate I may have to get a job.
I’ve had clips situated like this before. Damage occurs mainly when the flashlight is inserted or removed, rather than during actual carry.
The backside of the clip is smooth, so the trick to preventing pocket damage is to put a little side pressure on the light as you slip it into your pocket. Use the cloth to pull the clip away from the flashlight body as you insert or remove. The only sliding pressure on the cloth will come from the clip. After a few times it’s so natural you won’t even have to think about it.
The V2 has Anduril so you can set the maximum of the ramp yourself. I just set mine at 90 (out of 150) which gives me 450 lumen OTF (3000K 95CRI) which will not set fires and lets you switch it off in your pocket before, ahem, reproduction is inhibited. Only a double-click will get to turbo.
I also have the raised ring around the switch and sofar I’m very happy with it, it looks great, still switches really well and with one full day in my pants pockets I had no accidental activations yet.
Need help, does anyone know where I solder the switch leads to the board? I got a new replacement driver for my d4v1 but hank sent a d4v2 driver that im not familiar with
Got both my raised retaining rings from Hank yesterday. Just need to swap out the one on my EDC D4V2. They were $1.50 each and $2.50 shipping.
I've never had one single accidental pocket activation of my D4V2 but want the added protection a raised retaining ring will provide. I carry my light clipped to my right front pocket.
Well, that was way easier than I thought it would be. I didn't want to try the method mentioned earlier in this thread, on how to remove the retaining ring with the SAK screwdriver. Far too easy to damage the rubber button cover if you slip or just don't do it exactly right.
I already had a screwdriver that I sacrificed into a small chisel and made sure it was sharp as a knife before proceeding. I just put the head in my vise and carefully pried off the original retaining ring in about 3 seconds by easing the tip of the screwdriver/chisel under the outside edge.
Then I used a piece of leather and thin cardboard to protect the head while pressing the new retaining ring into place with my arbor press.
And all done!
Total time start to finish, about 5 minutes and that includes carefully smoothing out the burrs on the new retaining ring, where it contacts the rubber. It was super sharp and might have eventually caused an issue.
I recommend doing a burn-in test after swapping the retaining ring.
The retaining ring is held on by a friction fit. Removing the retaining ring will slightly erode the head of the light.
Aluminum expands when it gets hot. If you have replaced the retaining ring even once there is a chance that the ring will pop off when the head gets really hot.
To test: after swapping the retaining ring, turn the light on to turbo and wait till it gets hot. Double-click a few times to make sure it gets really hot (slightly hotter than the temperature protection would normally allow).
If the ring doesn’t pop off: Congratulations… you’re done.
If the ring does pop off: the head is eroded slightly. Add some super glue gel around the inside of the head where it touches the retaining ring. (I prefer Fiberfix optical super glue since it cures instantly). After waiting for the glue to dry, repeat the test. It should not come off with glue.
TK, could you add the "Summary- emitter differences" table from your D4 v.1 review, to this review now that the Luminus LEDs are available? I really like those comparisons.
I got my flashing kit the other day too but I can’t find the instructions now. They need to be stickied or something because they’re too hard to find, can anyone point me in the right direction?
