Over the last weeks I was in contact with 0-8-15-user and reviewed the code several times. Not the latest version yet, but there were only small changes added. IMHO overall the code looks good. It is much simpler than the previous implementation and seems to work with lights of different properties (D4Sv2 and D4v2). Nothing I would send to a manufacturer without further testing, but it should perform much better than the current version.
Ramping level vs. Lumen:
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(the battery that was used is roughly 2 years old and has a remaining capacity of around 2700 mAh)
What do i have to press to change aux leds for showing battery level?
Regular: 7 click hold (until it blinks rapidly)
Lockout: 3 click hold (until it blinks rapidly)
Same here. I prefer the v1 tailcap over the v2 tailcap for the same reason, even swapped them in the two Ti’s I own. If the old style tail caps were for sale I’d even buy a couple for my Emisar brigade.
Some time ago I contacted Hank about it and he said that due to inventory management he doesn’t want to have 2 styles. And he said that other users liked V2 more.
Maybe if we showed that there’s indeed sizable support for V1 caps we could convince him?
I’d also love to see a V1 style tailcap for the V2!
As a conclusion to this story, Hank cross-shipped me a new head as soon as I mailed him the defective one. Arrived in ~14 days and works perfectly. Flawless customer service from Emisar, just as expected.
On a side note, I now have 5 lights with SST-20 4000k 95CRI emitters and all of them have a different quality light to them. They’re all quite good, but some are better than others. The tint lottery is a cruel mistress. 
Agree, I have 4 with the same emitter. It is easy to rank them by their greenish tint, with the D4Sv2 the best and a Convoy S2+ the worst. But even the best looks a bit greenish against an obviously magenta tint such as the 4000k XPL-HI.
In general, the XP-L HI version is worth the extra cost. I know not everyone agrees, but it’s a pretty safe default for anyone who isn’t sure about their preference.
I’ve gotten quite a few lights which used other types of LEDs, and I’m almost always disappointed by them. So for now I mostly stick to just XP-L HI and Nichia 219B.
Can you post some beamshots of the different SST20-4000k?
I also have several lights that use SST20-4000k, but so far the one used on my MF01-Mini seems to look best (slightly better than the one on my Fireflies E07). It’s a tint lottery though.
I’m not sure this is addressed to me, but here goes. These are my 4 lights with sst-20 at 4000K. From left to right:
1. Convoy S2+ with 7135*6
2. Convoy S2+ with 7135*8
3. Emisar D4S (v1, not v2 as I said earlier, but flashed with Anduril)
4. Emisar D4v2.
The order in increasing greenness tint is 3, 4, 2, 1. It is impossible to adjust the brightness levels to be exactly the same. The Emisars are set at ramp step 4 in the default stepped ramping of 7 steps. This tint order holds up with minor variations in brightness levels.
I think this was actually directed to me, so I’ll offer this comparison. Full size version here.
Here’s what this shows, left to right:
Sofirn C01 (Yugi 3200k for reference)
Emisar D4S (SST20 4000k 95CRI)
Emisar D4Sv2 (SST20 4000k 95CRI)
Sofirn C01S on low (SST20 4000k 95CRI)
Emisar D4v2 (SST20 4000k 95CRI)
Emisar D4 (XP-L HI 5000k ~80CRI?, for reference)
Notes:
- Taken with custom white balance set at 4000k (Adobe Lightroom reported it as 4300k so take that for what it’s worth).
- Shot against a pure white photo reflector, lights are about 6 inches away from reflector
- Underexposed to highlight differences
- Lights set very low (by hand, uncalibrated) which exacerbates color cast problems
So this is basically white wall hunting at its worst. In real use they don’t look this bad, but shooting this way shows the differences in the SST-20 emitters.
Thoughts:
- You can see the original D4S is a little whiter than the D4Sv2
- The D4Sv2 is a little greener than the Sofirn C01S
- The D4v2 is somewhere between the D4S and D4Sv2, probably helped by the optics
Hope this helps.
oh…still cant post my thoughts about this blf fetish called Emisar…ordered 16.11…still not arrived…
Dumb question: Are those SST-20 in A120 package, i.e. (hopefully) replaceable with Nichia 219B? Do standard Carclo optics delivered with the D4V2 fit the 219B? Not sure if I should risk reflowing four LEDs at once (only did two emitter swaps thus far), but a 219B Emisar would be something.
The LEDs are XP-sized, or a 3535 footprint. This type of pad is compatible with all Cree XP-series LEDs, Nichia 219, and the SST-20… among others.
However, it’s strongly recommended that you use a weak battery and/or significantly reduce the maximum PWM value for the FET channel when using 219B in a direct-drive light like this. The 219B doesn’t tolerate direct drive from high-amp cells for very long before it turns into smoke.
I’d flash your Andúril-version for Nichia before swapping emitters.
I noticed there have been some recent updates to Anduril in the repository. What has changed between 09-28 and 12-17?
That might still run too hot though, since it’s calibrated for 219C instead of 219B. The newer emitter can handle a lot more power.