that is pathetic. I see a bunch of BLFers descending on O headquarters with pitchforks and fire-on-a-stick.
Let’s roll!
Oh wait…wrong torches 
A glued together light that doesn’t work is not worth much, but there might be something salvageable, don’t empty the trash.
So… The tint can be fixed by replacing the lens. The green comes from the nasty AR coating. The lens from a UF-602C works nicely. Olight apparently improved this in the 2013 models, but I don’t know how much, or if they later changed it back.
The driver can be replaced by a MELD driver from tterev3, though I’m not sure if he has any which don’t also require replacing the emitter.
Edit: Or, it seems that Cereal_Killer has a new driver which should work. 
FWIW, here is the lens from my 2012 Olight S10 (left) next to the lens from a cheap UF-602C host (right). The AR coating on the Olight lens turns everything green, even the white fabric it’s resting on. OTF tint went from green to white simply by swapping in a cheaper non-AR lens.
The green-ness splits the different wavelengths of color so that green goes through but blue gets diverted off to the side. This can be seen in the form of a blue ring around the edge of the spill:
The green isn’t visible in that pic due to white balance and overexposure, but it’s there (and it was pretty distinctly green).
I’ve had this issue with other premium-brand lights too, such as the EagleTac D25A. Its AR lens produces a horrible green tint with a bright blue ring around the edge. It totally killed the CRI on my D25A-219, which defeated the entire point of the light. I suspect this is also why Zebralights have so often had a green tint, and why people report their high-CRI Zebralights (SC62d, etc) just don’t look as white as a Nichia 219. Stupid AR coating.
I’ve found premium-brand lights a lot less interesting lately, in part because of this… and also because they are generally a lot less mod-friendly.
Its odd that i can see the grain of the fabric more clearly in the green lens, and it does look slightly green in your picture.
I wonder if that coating could be removed with a solvent. Maybe a dab of acetone?
Interesting idea, one may even be able to use gasoline, dedome an emitter, fix an olight
It shouldn’t be odd that you can see the fabric grain better - that’s part of what AR lens coatings are for. 
I’m still very that I got the exact S20 that I got. It has a perfectly white beam. No noticeable tint in any direction. And when the AR lens is clean, it is beautifully invisible. I hate that you all got such poor quality flashlights from premium brands.
But the AR coating seems to affect the colour of the light but increases its “resolution”? I thought its just supposed to prevent light absorption which seems to be a uniform phenomenon till now.
It’s probably just that the AR lens is significantly thicker and heavier, and thus probably presses down harder against the microfiber cloth it’s on. I may have also pressed down on one or the other harder to squish the fibers. Or it could be the angle of the light above the two lenses. I’m pretty sure the AR lens doesn’t have a higher resolution.
In any case, I don’t think any meaningful results can be inferred from the pattern of the cloth under each lens.
If it helps, here’s the pic in its original resolution:
Thanks for clarifying, that makes a lot of difference, Bort is an expert at reading too much into everything, its a gift and a curse (most of the time a massive curse)
Stripping AR will take more serious chemicals.
However, I do find it interesting that the AR lens looks white near the edge. I suspect that the diverted wavelengths hit the edge and bounce back, thus making it the right color again.
I didn’t think of trying acetone to remove the coating… I tried soaking it in lens cleaner (that someone reported having success with for removing AR coating without damaging the glass), but it didn’t work. But I have plenty of acetone (well, nail polish remover) and that seems a lot more likely to have an effect. Perhaps if I soaked it in acetone for several hours?
It’d be nice to put the original lens back in, minus the nasty coating. Would also be handy for the D25A, since I don’t have a non-AR replacement lens for it.
DBSAR, it’s very possible that the 2014 models have different issues than the 2012 models. On the 2012 ones, the lens was the problem (which I can confirm since I fixed it by replacing it with a cheap piece of glass). Selfbuilt’s review also notes the issue, and that it was supposedly fixed on the 2013 models. On the 2014 ones maybe it’s something else, like the reflector as you suggested.
Regardless, Olight hasn’t responded to any messages from me, even when I tried to send them money for stuff (replacement parts) that their official vendors don’t carry. I’ve never been able to get a response.
I managed to get a response from EagleTac about some similar issues, but all they said is that they refuse to interact directly with customers — I can either resolve it with the vendor where I bought the light or I can just forget it. But the vendor has been pretty awesome and I don’t think they should incur extra expenses for something caused by the manufacturer. And the vendor can’t resolve it anyway, since the problem exists on all produced units; can’t simply exchange it for another one.
They may even have some inbetween units, i have an S20 without this problem and have wondered if it might be a clone or fake, from banggood i believe.
i think mine came from when banggood opened so whenever that was, perhaps you need to send the driver to a BLF member who can determine the mode of failures
Very true, but perhaps sanity is worth a few bucks?
Perhaps you should post a review on a few of the popular websites for that light, people should know what they are getting into
I can’t comment on the Olight drivers, since I had my S10-Ti shipped directly to tterev3 and I never saw it until the driver had already been replaced. I didn’t really see any point in ever having a stock Olight Baton, but with MELD on it it’s pretty sweet.
However, I was curious so I implemented something very similar to the stock Baton interface for use on attiny13 e-switch drivers. Some people really like the Baton UI, but after writing it I ended up not actually using it. I don’t like that it only ramps up, and to lower the level I have to either cycle all the way through the modes or start back at moon and work my way up. Maybe I should add an auto-reverse like on my smooth ramping UI.
Agreed.
Oh, and you guys know you can trim quotes right?