UltraFire MCU-C88

[Tas62]

@Haggai

Do the threads really match 100% on both sides?

Yep..........the tail end of the battery tube screws onto the head perfectly.

[Tas62]

@Be-Seen Triker

That means its not a male/female capable extention, right?

The head end has a female thread for the pill......the head actually threads onto a protuding thread on the pill. The tail end has a male thread.

[Boaz]

Yes it lego's .. the pill is male /male...... the tube is front female..rear male ..

I just took the pill out and screwed it into the tail cap than attached the head to the tail minus the body ..I'm wondering if it will fire up on a watch battery like a 2025

It's very cool looking just head and tail....it looks like a huge itpc9 or a 606A .. Like a triangle ..very cool now all I need is tiny 4.5 volts ///maybe 2 2025 watch batteries ..

I need to take some pictures of this :P too funny

[E1320]

Does anyone know if the 26650 battery will fit this?

I did the XML mod and I made a Nanjg 105 10 chip 3.5 amp driver, but with 3AAs Duraloops I can't get more than 2.5 amps. So I am looking for a Lion solution. Unless someone knows of some AAs that can deliver that kind of amperage.

[Tas62]

Ive tried an 18650, and the tailcap wouldn't tighten.

26600 might be a fit though http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1218

[E1320]

I have been having trouble getting over 2 amps to my XML mod light I had a feeling the AAs could deliver the 3.5 amps I was looking for. Just out of curiosity I removed the 3AA Duraloops and taped them together and held them in the light and did a tail cap measurement. I got well over 3 amps so my question now is has anyone modified the battery holder to allow for decent amperage delivery on this light? Does anyone know of a better designed triple AA battery holder?

[agenthex]

Are you thinking of soldiering together all the little contact connections on the holder? All the cheapo 3AA holder (like the one at KD) are crappy in that they rely on spring pressure to keep like 6 metal pieces pressed together.

[E1320]

@agenthex

Are you thinking of soldiering together all the little contact connections on the holder? All the cheapo 3AA holder (like the one at KD) are crappy in that they rely on spring pressure to keep like 6 metal pieces pressed together.

Yeah as another experiment i just stuffed it full of aluminum foil and it went from 2.1 amps to 2.8 amps so yeah I am going to solder the hell out of it until I get a decent reading.

[E1320]

Good news for those who did the XML mod on this light, there is a fix for the cheesy battery holder.

First change the springs, I had plenty of spare P-60 drop in driver springs so I used these picked up about .3 amps.

Second lay a thick bead of solder connecting the battery contact points together with the springs like this.

Results 3.5 tailcap amps but it does sag fast since my Duraloops are brand new. Since the hotspot is much smaller than the one on the 980L it will easily overpower the bigger hotspot of the 980L.

Happy modding :)

[E1320]

Forget this triple AA nonsense I got plenty of Reverend Jims 18650s to try this on for size.

So I made a Nanjg 105c with 10 7135 for 3.5 amps. Perfect amperage for an XML according to Matches experiment.

Added some grommets to make the 18650s fit perfect with no rattling.

Test it with a Fluke 179 and it gets the full 3.5 amps

Added an extra o-ring to the tail cap to take the extra length of the 18650 up.

Perfection. Beats the pants off the 980L for throw now.

[agedbriar]

While adding the two 7135's, did you just piggyback them or you also provided a cooling connection to the chips' ground on the opposite side to the pins?

[E1320]

@agedbriar

While adding the two 7135's, did you just piggyback them or you also provided a cooling connection to the chips' ground on the opposite side to the pins?

I piggyback them solder all three connections on the front and the one on the back and then I glue the whole driver together with Fujik to spread the heat evenly preventing hot spots. before putting it in and soldering it in place.

[E1320]

@oldbobk

Erik,

Will a 26650 fit? I've been using those in some of my Mags, and sag don't happen. I've wanted a single 26650 body.

Bob K

I don't think it fits, I saw a post about it before but I can't find it now. Someone was using an 26500.

[E1320]

MCU-88 XML vs 980L XML

[valimarele]

@agedbriar

Ok, here are my results.

Alkalines Duracell Turbo (for toys etc.), expiration 2017, power-pack voltage = 4.82V.

As first switched on Hi 34600 lux @ 1m
after 5min on Hi plus 5min rest 30800 lux @ 1m
after 5 more min on Hi plus 5min rest 28500 lux @ 1m
after 5 more min on Hi plus 5min rest 27200 lux @ 1m
after 5 more min on Hi plus 5min rest 25600 lux @ 1m
after 5 more min on Hi plus 5min rest 24800 lux @ 1m
after 5 more min on Hi plus 5min rest 23600 lux @ 1m

Power-pack voltage 10min after last reading = 4.23V.

With fully charged Eneloops, power-pack voltage = 4.25V ... 30900 lux @ 1m.

For comparison: HS-802, fully charged Soshine 18650 ... 53000 lux @ 1m.

The actual measurements were taken at 5.0m for the C88 and at 7.0m for the HS-802, always max reading from scanning across the hotspot.

I have a Maglite 2D rebel and i wood like to know if it can compete with these two models.

[E1320]

@oldbobk

Erik,

You stuffed an 18650 in there, the 26650 should drop into your modded light, sans grommets. I don't have that body (yet?) to try, but I think your 10 7135 driver with the bigger battery would be perfect.

Bob K

Bob,

I'll order a 26650 and let you know when it gets here.

Erik

[valimarele]

@oldbobk

valimarele,

No. That said, you've got that deep rebel reflector, and all that nice aluminum for heatsinking, so building the rocket of your dreams is possible. I am going to run an XM-l in a 3D with a rebel reflector, DD. I'm putting two 5 Watt (unnecessarily big, but they fit) 0.47 Ohm resistors (Source: Radio Shack) connected in parallel on the bottom of a copper heatsink in the ground circuit. Using just the one resistor would give you a smidge less light, but more runtime. Don't even try this with alkalines; the current draw is too high.

Bob K

So,if i buy a mcu c-88 flashlight i am not wrong,will throw further!That's good news!

[E1320]

@oldbobk

Erik,

I just measured a BatterySpace 26650 LiMn. It was 0.050 SHORTER than a Solarforce 18650 V2! They're a flat-nosed battery, but the short spring on the drivers should mate up perfectly. And, I think I'm on to something, here. I built an 11 chip XM-L P60. Screwed it up somehow, only high mode. I may take it apart, to see, or maybe not. Here's the news: with a 4.0 V. battery, the 10 chip XM-L delivers 3.5 A., just as it should. The 11 chip I built gives only slightly more. I swapped a bunch of batteries charged to the same level to confirm this. However, when I feed them a battery charged to 4.25 V., the 10 chip still does about 3.5, but the 11 chip will flash a 4.2 A. reading! Even when it sags a bit, it will still draw 4.0 A. What I am thinking is that we are running these XM-Ls so hard that the battery is becoming a limiting factor. I think yo really drive them, we need a battery of greater capacity than any 18650. So I may have to get an '88. How do they handle heat?

Bob K

Try redoing the 7135 by the ground wire that one seams to give me trouble a lot for some reason I am not sure why. Take it off test the driver see if it pulls the 3.5 then if it does put it back on and you should be good.

I have also added only one 7135 chip before and lost all modes and got direct drive out of the driver for some reason.

The C-88 handles heat better than any other light I have because of the massive weight of it the thing weighs a ton.

[FX-32]

Erik you have done a very cool mod! (literally, with good heatsink)

I would like to see some outside beamshots

[E1320]

@FX-32

Erik you have done a very cool mod! (literally, with good heatsink)

I would like to see some outside beamshots

Imagine that but white