Ultrafire uf10 zoomable 16340

Just going through some lights of equal diameter and found that the old cheap Ultrafire Focus-590 (18650 light) tail cap fits/threads and works.
Still not as good as wire across the battery to tube, but way brighter than stock.

After I get the pill out, will shunt that spring and see if it helps.
Later,
Keith

Measurements, using an older EFEST 16340 700 mAh @4.23v:

Lumens on Hi: 357 @start, 335 @30 secs, throw: 6 kcd (measured at 5m), 155 meters

Lumens on Lo: 97

All stock, accept Nyogel on threads.

I was hoping for around 500. But for the price that is still a great deal. Thanks!

Is there visible PWM? This looks like a nice little light for the price…

I'm not good at noticing PWM's. I got it apart now - there's some simple electronics on the board in the pill. I got it apart: thin LED wires (of course), 3 300 ohm resistors in parallel between the LED+ and LED- wires (bleeder resistors?), one 3 legged SMD part which I can't figure out what it is, and a sealant blob that might be covering an SMD, but if it does, it's a very low profile one.

Ordered one

Curious to see how this one mods .
Is it high / lo or hi lo strobe sos ? PWM ? size of flood zoomed in. Best ones have a huge flood .
Reminds me of the edi-t t-11

Hi Tom E, what’s the diameter of the contact board and MCPCB?
Thanks,

Brass pill…NICE! :slight_smile: Is it hollow?

Hollow does not matter at all but extreme power levels (longterm personal crusade, I expect to have convinced the whole of BLF in the year 2032 :frowning: )

Hi,

Is the tailcap lit on this light? One of the pics (about 1/2 down the page) at GB (http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_423439.html) seems to show a lit tailcap?

Any idea about what the parts in the pill are for? Where is that 3-pin SMD relative to the 3 300 ohm resistors, circuit-wise?

Answers to most questions, and then some.

Solid pill, and pretty decent thickness on the shelf:

White stuff is some sort of epoxy that is pretty hard, and fairly thin:

Suppose you could look at converting the tail to a conventional power switch, but you lose so many of the features like tail standing, plus the great feel of that e-switch.

tailcap LED described in post #8. I dunno what that 3-pin part is, but the 1 pin side is connected to LED+/Batt+ I believe. Can't trace the other 2 pins to anything - probably goes to whatever is under the hard white sealant.

Thanks for the detail pics, can’t wait for it, ordered 2pcs since first day shown at Gearbest, and still in transit, plan to swap the contact board with 17DD FET sand down to fit the pill and swap the tail with omten clicky.

Ohhh - there's not a drop of thermal grease under the very thin MCPCB (~ 0.85 mm), so that explains the droppage.

I'm putting in an old XPL HI V3 2B I got on a 16mm SinkPAD, reflowing the MCPCB to the pill. Upgrading wires to 22 AWG and adding spring bypasses. I don't want to lose the really nice feel of the e-switch.

Thanks for the pictures, got one in the post - looking forward to modding it.

How do you deal with the altered focus caused by the thicker ledboard? (I remember sanding a Noctigon down to 1mm to solve this :weary: )

Sheesh, I gotta waste money on upgrade pills and custom machined pills for another 16 years?
Start preachin’. :money_mouth_face:

Ahh - sanded down a SinkPAD to ~1.28 mm - decent but not fully focused.

K, goofed up, so ended up going with a XM-L2 U4 1C on a SinkPAD, I'll eventually dedome, but left the dome on for now.

Was able to measure amps by wiring up the driver on the bench, so measured between the driver and host. Stock is about 0.86 A -- makes sense considering the output.

When re-assembled, the light didn't work - there's poor contact to the driver ground ring in the tail. I added couple solder blobs to the ground ring and problems went away.

Mod Summary:

  • XM-L2 U4 1C on 16 mm SinkPAD, sanded MCPCB down to 1.28 mm, sanded smooth, sanded smooth the pill top, reflowed the SinkPAD to the pill
  • 24 AWG bypass's on both springs
  • resistor mod: traced the two 1R5's to be in parallel, and appear to be driving the output to the host body. So piggybacked a 0.5 ohm (R500) on to the inside 1R5 (1.5 ohm). Result was a boost of 0.86A to ~1.25A on the bench.

Results:

  • Hi, lumens (flood): 551 @start, 508 @30 secs, Hi throw (spot): 8.6 kcd
  • Lo, lumens (flood): 156

Nice bump: from 322 lumens to 508 lumens for flood, 6 Kcd to 8.6 kcd for throw

Reflowed SinkPAD, and shows the 2 marks I made with a metal punch to use a tool in for tightening:

Pill spring bypass:

After the resistor mod:

Assembled. Want to blackout trim, but will do after dedoming. For dedoming, I'll just de-solder the LED wires, remove the driver and o-rings, and put the entire pill in warm gas.

6 minute running on Hi after mod: mildly warm throughout the body, pretty evenly distributed.

Again, highly recommended. I'm think'n I need to order a couple more and configure with different LED's.

I didn't test it yet, but with all the SMD LED's, I figure it shows RED, not GREEN, when the battery gets low.

Time to order one of these! Looks like the most fun you can have for under ten bux. Thanks for the inspirations, Andy, and the gang.