Sirius, my SR90 is using a secondary battery tube with 2 32650’s in it. I remove one of the pcb retaining rings and lift the board to get the cells out to charge them. I have an 18ga Turnigy wire coming up from the base to bring ground to the top. It’s a bit of a PITA but I get more capacity and more power than the stock battery pack. I never had the charger, only the 12V car plug, and it was horribly slow anyway. I still have that original battery tube/pack, the charge indicator lights work and all that. Might have to send you a package after all…
When you tried the XPG2 or XML2, did you happen to look in the front and did it have that dark ring near the center?
I had high hopes for this also. If it can’t be focused properly with the LEDs we use that will definitely kill the lux. Also there are two reflections instead of one which will hurt the efficiency some; manufacturer estimated the efficiency at 70%.
It won’t beat an aspheric of the same diameter in lux because of the metallized circle in the center (reduces effective area), but maybe it gets close? Did you measure the lux with this optic?
No I did not look in the front, maybe I should review it some time and record the details and measure lux and all that stuff. I know with the XHP70 the whole reflector was filled.
Modified my s mini, nothing major, just a new led. Stock led board is DTP which is nice, used T6 4C led. I think i like it, it is a bit warmer than i expected but i think ill get used to it.
Glad to see you there 
So you didn’t wait for that 5B1 ?
I was impatient so i did it, but it is not a big of a deal i can swap another led anytime. 5B1 is on the list, will try it for sure.
Hi DB, how did you lift the pcb that is on top of the batteries? I tried today with something like suction cup without luck, I will try tomorrow with very strong double sided sticky foil (I am out of the foil, have to get some first). Do you have any pictures how it looks inside? Maybe I could drill a hole in the pcb and to use it as a pulling point but I don’t want to destroy components on the other side of the pcb if there are any.
Hey I did an S-Mini too! My copper S-Mini got a XM-L2 5D1 on the factory mcpcb, and I also swapped in a set of polished trim rings instead of the blue.
Beamshot comparison:
How did you removed the button ring ?
I tried to remove it on my S1 alu and I just succeeded in scratching it…
Same way I (and you) did the bezel. Took a very thin razor blade and hammered it down into the space between the ring and the body. You’ve gotta orient the light so that it can take the hit without rolling though, so it took me a minute or two of fumbling around to realize that I needed to tailstand it, extend my razor long enough to stick out past the body of the light, and baton the blade in, then flip it over and headstand it to do the same. It actually popped right out after that, no need for thicker blades, because the ring is so much thinner. In fact you should be really careful doing this because it would be very easy to lose the ring. I almost did.
When seating it back on, I took the extra step of finding a socket with the right diameter (pretty sure it was 7mm) so that I could hammer on the ring and not the switch. I’m not sure that’s really necessary since all the working bits are well below the level of the light body in there and the silicone switch should be unharmed by the hits, but I didn’t want to take a chance on pinching it or something.
By the way, the blue bits from my copper light went onto this brass light, which is where the polished bits came from:
I didn’t do anything else to this brass light, just swapped the trim bits from one to the other, but I really kinda like it more than I expected to. I think the blue complements the yellow brass much better than it did the reddish copper, but maybe that’s just me.
Thank you emarkd, I was thinking about swapping the blue bezel of my alu S1 to the Ti polished one.
This idea didn’t leave my mind since I saw a pre-production sample on google :
For the record, on the photographers color wheel (and fashion designers as far as that goes) blue is the compliment to orange as it’s on the opposite side of the wheel. (blue to copper, best contrast according to the industry)
Since we all see colors somewhat differently, interpretation is key.
Nicely done removing those small pieces without damage or loss. Tedious stuff there!
I was surprised to see the brass SMini, I thought the Olight site said they were in copper or Titanium, with coatings for variation in color? Interesting.
Sirius, I was in the middle of modifying a Nitecore P30 but took a look at the stock battery tube on my SR90, the pcb hasn’t been removed before and is in there solid like you describe. I do have the end pieces from the other tube, and they have a lot of electronics on them, drilling through would be virtually impossible to do without damaging it.
When I got mine it had a tube someone had tried to modify with different cells, so the end pieces were there but no cells. I think they used 1600mAh 18650’s that are cardboard wrapped and welded in pack form, 2S3P, as such it would surely benefit the light to use better newer tech in cell choice. I made adapter tubes (literally a section of D sized MagLite tube) and was using 26650’s with a PVC tube inside the Mag tube. Now I use 2 32650’s in the Mag tube for the longest run time (they have 6000mAh capacity.)
I’ll see about getting that top pcb out, it might actually be glued in place, they like doing stuff like that.
Edit: For clarity, I cut the length of the Mag tube, making a slot wide enough for the 18 Ga Turnigy wire to bring ground up from the bottom, so the ground wire runs inside the slotted D Mag Tube, beside the 2 32650’s. Just used a heavy copper plate glued to the pcb at the bottom, soldered the 18 Ga wire to the plate, so that’s my contact plate for negative. This allows that top pcb to still have both positive and ground for the driver contact.
Yeah, wow, that looks great together. Its not hard to swap, just tedious. Be careful the thing doesn’t shoot across the garage and get lost forever.
Yeah I’m sure there’s some implicit bias in my opinions here. I actually performed the swap specifically to get the polished stainless on my copper light, because copper > brass and stainless/copper >> blue/copper. Honestly I’m not a fan on the Olight blue on any of the raw metals. It looks nice on the black ano, but otherwise I generally find it distracting. So I was just surprised to find the brass/blue combo as appealing as I did when finished.
Or maybe its because I went to school at GT. THWG! 
Nice little swap on parts. One of the quickest ways to spruce up a house is to change out old door hardware for shiny new bits, makes a difference in every room you see.
Planning a major mod to my waistline. Happy turkey day. :face_with_monocle:
Happy Thanksgiving!
Waiting for the game to start, feeling like I’m gonna explode! 
I stuffed me more than any Turkey even managed…
Mom modded my waisteline so I worked some of it off setting up her living room after she moved a couple months ago.
New 55in 4K TV, no cable. Hard wired for internet with her Roku on the side with my shared Netflix. Recently I went over her home PC with a new Vid card and SSD. Have it in the living room on the new TV with some entertainment stuff like Kodi and Exodus to get her anything she could want. She is 70 years old and gotta be proud of her to cut the Cable for the past 3 years.
I needed a small 100uF cap for a driver prototype but haven’t one at hand so I “modded” 10x 10uF SMD caps to a 100uF one:
Now that’s dedication !
I haven’t even try to solder any SMD component… I can’t imagine how much of a hassle it would be to solder a dozen side by side