The white smudges on the C8 is thermal past.
I am super happy with the way they came out.
Right click and open in another tab to see larger photos.
The white smudges on the C8 is thermal past.
I am super happy with the way they came out.
Right click and open in another tab to see larger photos.
I also baked a blue convoy shorty tube, but I cant find it.
Turned out greyish blue. At one point the C8 head was grey, I took it out and it went back to black. Then It went to far to orangebrowncopper
On flames it is easy to remove with pliers
I really like your results, like old copper.
I used a cookie sheet on top rack of oven. Would like to try torching some for some effects.
On the previous page you can see my take on baking blue convoy tube, if you are stuck on blue/green tint you need more heat.
On the previous page you can see my take on baking blue convoy tube, if you are stuck on blue/green tint you need more heat.
I might have to bake it some more. I would like to get to a grey color.
I did a complete mod. today. Using the driver I planned didnât work out easy, so I used an old SK-68 clone driver with a new Nichia to up the output of a RoMiSen RC-A8 on CR123A.
From XP-G2 to XP-L HI 3D using the same copper PCB.
Resistor mod (R100) increased current from 1,8A to 2,9A.
Cooked in the oven for one hour.
Cool cooked job. What temp did you use ?
Did it go past orange before that color ?
I used 300ÂșC. (max temp)
No orange color. It turned from dark brown to light brown, without orange. Tactical ring was burned with a kitchen burner.
I used 300ÂșC. (max temp)
No orange color. It turned from dark brown to light brown, without orange. Tactical ring was burned with a kitchen burner.
Thanks, I used more heat, less time.
Will try another Convoy soon.
Same temp and same time, in a cheep light. It took a gold finish.
300.000 Cd running a gas dedomed direct drived XP-G2 .
Overhauled one of my first 3up X6âs and played around with GITD stuff applied to some optics,
This X6 had a glued Al-Heatsink, 3 badly dedomed 219B on a FET driver and additinal glass lens. Board was also glued down. I managed to force the board out. Heatsink was left in place but I drilled and tapped two holes into it to secure the board. Sanded down the 32mm board and soldered it under the new one. LEDs are 219B-V1 R9050 sw57, by the way. Sanded down the bezel a bit and now itâs a perfect fit without additional glass lens. While the optics are curing, I prepared a 105C based driver. Itâs a dual channel 11+2 AMC7135 driver now, 4.67 A max, running BLF-A6 firmware
with BATTCHECK_VpT(EDIT: doesnât work), 6- and 4-mode-groups, where in the 6-mode-group, 4 modes are running solely on the 2nd 2x7135-channel, in the 4-mode-group, 2 modes are 2nd channel only. Didnât dare to touch the optics yet, hope theyâll turn out nice.
EDIT: Got it working now, BLF-A6 with BATTCHECK-VpT. TK could have done that in an instant I guess, just a green quest, but for a coding newb like me, itâs quite an achievement.
Nice results⊠I will have to start baking my lights as well
I did the RMM SRK driver swap. Now I have 7 nice even modes. First thru hole Iâve done. Got a Trustfire 12 led on/off only which Iâll put the old SRK driver into and at least have L/M and highâŠI hope. Still learning
Fitted a BLF A6 driver into an Ultrafire F13 using a couple of 16/22mm copper washers to make an adapter. Not pretty, but it works.
Now just trying to get my head around the UI.
One unforeseen problem: the spring on the A6 driver is about 7mm shorter than the original so now only protected batteries will work. Kinda defeats the object. DOH!
⊠Using the driver I planned didnât work out easy, so I used an old SK-68 clone driver âŠ
Heh, Iâve gotten myself into the same situation before.
I made a JAX mini C8 with a BLF A6 driver and a XM-L2 T6 4C on a Noctigon.
In the process of soldering the driver to the pill I also did my first hot dedome :-/ .
JAX C8 (left) BLF X5 Alu 3B (right).
The dedome tint is starting to grow on me, and itâs pulling 5,8 amps on a fresh Samsung 30Q.
Well not really a mod but I slopped mud on 6 - 17mm blf a6 Driver kits from RMMâs shop todayâŠ
Actually on second thought these are for modding some of my flashlights⊠:face_with_monocle:
With some advice from Randy of PflexPro I did a forward switch conversion on my Convoy C8