do you have beamshot comparison, please?
The M1 is not in my car, I feel it gives a great all around beam and output for that kind of situation. Also it handles the heat surprisingly well. I REALLY like that setup. Hotspot is a bit tighter then a P60 host but the OP makes for a very smooth beam and evens out the tint shift.
The S6 is a nice light as well, if you are not worried about the CRI this is a really great pocket thrower. The S6 reflector is the best throwing tube light reflector I have found and the OP means the beam is pretty to look at as well.
I still use a TIR in my EDC S2+ though as I find that it is more useful for things past ~20 feet.
The C8 sized light is a skywolfeyes tly-739. Not a very good host by any means but it does have a very deep reflector that is about a C8 sized. It is a little laser pointer with the sliced done oslon. Tiny little hotspot but it throws quite well. Think it was around 500 - 600m of throw? Pretty good for such a small host with an under driven LED, it is only around 2-3A IIRC due to the host not being able to handle more.
The triple S2+’s are a lot of fun but not the most practical light for EDC IMO. They are very floody, which is great if you will be using it within 10 feet or so. I will carry a triple if I know this will be the case. For anything past 20 feet the single LED works much better. The triple has to kick into turbo in order to see 100 feet and then it gets hot in about 60 seconds. The single LED on the other hand can see a solid 100M with 1/3 the power and basically never gets too hot to hold.
I have come to like the 15011 triple lens, I actually get higher lumen readings with it vs the 15007. The 11 lens is also a lot smoother and more enjoyable to look at. It works great with XP-G3’s.
The biggest things I have learned is that CRI is worth a bit of output loss in most cases.
The 219C 90+ CRI is a beautiful LED.
The XP-L2 is an amazing single LED option if you want max power, you just need to combine it with the right reflector to make the tint shift acceptable. The 4000k 80CRI 3 step binned XP-L2’s are really impressing me.
I’d like to get my hands of some of these, but ordering from Arrow to Sweden is not the most economical. Anyone know of any other reliable source for them?
KD has some 70CRI versions but the only places I have seen the 80CRI are component supplies like digikey, mouser and Arrow. There might be an European supplier that has them, no idea what suppliers are over there.
There are no convenient suppliers over here. I get stuff from Mouser every now and then, but shipping is killing unless I order over $50 dollar of goods
And you have to pay tax too , but at least you don’t have to pay import fees etc …
Mouser EU has them but they have insane shipping costs. I can order stuff from Farnell UK by a middle man and shipping costs are normal, but they don’t have any XP-Ls.
Should maybe try and get MTN electronics to sell them reflowed on MCPCBs. I’m sure they would sell a bunch pretty fast. Oddly enough, ordering small packages from MTN is normally cheaper than from within Europe.
Didn’t like the tint of my s41s xpg3. So I made it into a 4000k 219c cri92 triple.
Edit: FYI tint is now almost exactly the same is as my 219b s41 where I sliced the domes off with a hot knife.
Had this S41 stripped and polished a while back and it remained empty, waiting parts.
Got some stuff from Richard in last week and decided to get it done this morning.
Tpad Quad and Carclo. Hazed over the Carclo with 400 wet to reduce artifacts.
Nichia NVSL219BT-V1 4000K 90 CRI reflowed by Richard on the Tpad quad. Also used the MtnE New version FET+1 Bistro.
Soldered the Tpad into the head and reduced the 24mm Carclo to 22mm. Pulls 14.5A for a few seconds off a 30Q on my DMM.
Blackwater SR71 Ti Nichia 219C 4000K.
Several firsts today:
- First time using solder paste
- First time “properly” reflowing a single-emitter
- First time reflowing a multi-emitter setup
- First time slicing a dome
I removed the 4x 219B’s from my Astrolux S41S board and cleaned off the old solder. I then applied solder paste and seated four Cree XP-L2 V5 4000K on the board. A little gas and frying pan… voila! While I was at it, I did the same with a spare 16mm Noctigon. I had a bit of extra solder paste that collected on the sides, but I didn’t bother removing it as I knew it wouldn’t matter underneath the optic. Instead, I concentrating on making sure all 4 were pushed down tightly (using a drinking glass).
The domes on the XP-L2’s were too large to properly fit in the stock optic, so I sliced them quite low. Reassembled everything, and wow… this is the warmest light I own. Wall hunting with it isn’t pretty, but I imagine they’ll look great outside. I can’t wait for (1) nighttime to come, and (2) the long tube for the S41S to come in.
I also took the XP-L2 on the 16mm Noctigon and replaced the cool white XP-L HI emitter in my EDC S2 with a smooth reflector. It’s definitely not the nicest beam, but not terrible. But putting it side by side with a 5000K 219C (also in a S2 with smooth reflector) makes me cringe when wall hunting; the 219C is so much nicer to look at. I’ll see how the compare outside tonight.
Stock S41S board with 219B’s:
After reflowing the XP-L2’s but before slicing domes:
After the dome slicing:
S41S beamshot (it looks much warmer in real life):
S2 beamshot:
Another Surefire U2 swapped to an XP-L.
Machined a copper shim
Beamshots - Stock Lux V on left and XP-L on the right. Highest setting
I usually tape the lower part of the head to the flashlight body with some gorilla tape, heat the light by running it hot or apply externally then use a sticky silicone pad or two or rubber sheet to twist it off by hand. I try to avoid using grips and such if it can be helped.
Dude, let’s keep this family friendly. Don’t want to know about your rubber sheets 
Emitter swap for my AA brass CNQG and brass I3S !
Those 3000K Nichai 219C are so warm :heart_eyes:
I also made two brass beads with my power drill and Dremel to make so sweet lanyards :sunglasses:
Nice set :+1:
Thanks !
However, I still have to find a clicky brass AAA (something like the 348 but made of brass and with light knurling would be cool !)
I’ve had my eye on this little fella for a while
