Sure, it’s fairly straightforward.
I found where the bat+ comes into the board on the components side and took a 30awg to a 1206 1k resistor soldered to a 1206 green LED and mounted it next to the switch with clear resin, keeping in mind clearances for reinstalling into the pill.
The LED- is another 30awg wire soldered to the brass driver ring.
The original switch cover i destroyed ages ago so this one is a piece of 4mm translucent rubber placed over the electronic button then poured in silicone half way in the well, refitted alu ring, let dry then made a mix of a tiny amount of graphite powder with clear silicone and topped off.
Put a piece of clear tape over the switch first so it doesn’t get jammed up.
Thanks, but that doesn’t explain the interesting part: How it goes from green to brighter red for low voltage warning… I still don’t get that part… It’s possible I’m just daft though.
The light has already the low voltage warning LED 
Ahh, Ok… I had no idea. 
I can not connect the avrusb with the BD06 Atmel so I need to replace it I think. But I only can do thet at work so I need to wait until Sunday
Probably it isn’t an atmel , that’s why you can’t connect avr programmer (in photo looks like it doesn’t write attiny)
The photo was bad. It is an atmel.
maybe same as other driver that has reset pin connected to ground?
the pin outs look the same as attiny13A but it could still be locked with certain fuse settings I think. If that’s the case then swapping mcu’s or a high voltage reset thingamy (?) is the only way forward. I find swapping mcu’s easier than stacking chips in terms of soldering difficulty.
On new convoy drivers the MOSI pin grounded not the reset. Checked it both but nothing. I think Rufusbduck is right. I will swap mcu.
The MCU on the BD06 drivers is “locked” by fuse settings. Someone in the german forum couldn’t flash it, he desoldered it but even then it couldn’t be flashed. So you would need a high-voltage programmer or just use a new one.
Hello Chouster, did you meant this? :nerd_face: 
I changed the MCU and it works with the other one. Added two 7135s and now it’s 3,5A on high. The blinking speed is normal but to change modes I need to be really fast. How can I modify something to have enough time for mode change? Bigger or smaller C1 capacitor, or I need to do something with the firmware?
Yes, thanks. Sometimes it’s a good idea to read a couple of posts back :person_facepalming:
Well, you didn’t mention explicitly that the MCU was desoldered and still refused. Problem with links to TLF are: 1) most pictures only show when you’re a locked in member, 2) the vast majority here doesn’t speak german.
2. can be fixed by google translate
Wow! Cool, I didn’t know that. Sorry, but I think google translate doesn’t always do that great of a job. 1) can be fixed by signing in, you forgot to tell me.
Lexel, everyone who sees your pictures wants the cubes desk ornament featured in them.
When are you going to have the BLF group buy? 
Can be solved by using “Medien” and “Alben” in TLF. And thumbnails are visible for non-Members too.
Today I flashed custom firmware on a FX-12 driver that came in a Convoy S2+. Had a bit of trouble at first, then realized it has the same issue as the newer Convoy drivers (needed to cut a trace). Upon closer inspection, I think the MCU side of the new Convoy drivers was “borrowed” from the FX-12; the layout seemed spot-on.
Nothing earth-shattering, just an interesting observation about the drivers. Could explain why Simon “chose” to ground that MCU pin… didn’t do it intentionally, it was just carried over from another design.
oksy, i have been “practicing” making custom heatsinks? here’s what looked to ME like one of those huge heatsinks goes in a big maglite? I’m getting comfortable enough with machining now…
