Topped up the 30Q’s, fitted the tail with bypassed springs (you were right, it had the phosfor bronze springs before), and did a reading in the sphere: 4990 lm at 3 seconds, 4760 lm at 30 seconds.
Readings at 30 seconds are the most consistent IMO, that makes your reading 12% higher than mine.
The difference could be caused by the difference between our builds (you could have slightly lower voltage leds for example, and the variation in high current capability among my 30Q’s I found pretty high too), it could be a calibration difference between our integrating thingies, it could be a spectral difference between our luxmeters (several luxmeters that I tested measure too high in the red region so high CRI leds read somewhat too high).
In general in light measuring, a 12% difference between measurements from different devices that are not calibrated between each other is completely ok, pretty good actually, nothing to worry about.
Changed the cover plate around the switch button on my modded Thorfire TK05. Previous version used a small aluminum ring, cut from a piece of black-anodized sheet (I used the backside of the sheet which had a pale-gold anodize and not the frontside which was solid black).
The new cover plate is made from polished bare aluminum and covers the whole switch area, not just the steel retaining ring. I felt the polished aluminum look would fit in better with the overall theme of the light. Downside is bare aluminum scratches easily. There’s already a scratch on the new cover plate from being in my pocket with my keys.
Old Ring around switch:
New cover plate:
The new cover plate has more surface area so is less likely to fall off (it’s glued on with Arctic Alumina). It also doesn’t overhang the top of the light at all and has smooth edges so won’t get caught on anything. Both the new cover plate and the old ring fulfill the same purpose: They provide a raised surface around the button, greatly reducing the risk of accidental pocket activation.
I actually trust yours much more that’s why I wanted you to re-test for my own expectations. Thanks for doing that. I will sample a few other lights in my collection with this adjustment and see if it sounds right.
I currently just use a modified shoe box but even with that crude setup the numbers seem fairly consistent across different types of lights, even if they are 10-15% high.
KDLITKER xhp50.2 with KD ex18 extension tube roughed up on steel wire wheel. for the 2-cell fun.
XHP50.2 J4 5700K
20mm MTN-MAXlp 4amp limit, the original had 3amp driver, but i had this one on hand.
any ideas for fet style drivers not from mtn, the small orders and high shipping to Aus is a killjoy.
Built another C8F, this time using LH351D 5000K 80CRI. I also have a C8F with an XP-L2 V5 5000K 70CRI so figured I would do a comparison.
Output (adjusted my usual numbers down 12% to djozz levels):
LH351D 5000K 80CRI
0s: 3,450 | 30s: 3,149
XP-L2 V5 5000K 70CRI
0s: 3,180 | 30s: 2,735
Even at 80CRI the LH351D bests the XP-L2 and it maintains its brightness better after 30s, nice.
Beam (description):
LH351D 5000K 80CRI
- nice even "white" hotspot
- very slight greenish/yellow ring out of SMO reflectors, gets slightly less apparent with higher brightness
XP-L2 V5 5000K 70CRI
- the hotspot is even but it's very pink in the middle and very apparent next to the Samsung or Nichia 5K
- yellow ring pretty consistent at all levels, it's also darker yellow than the Samsung ring
Both emitters have a similar sized hotspot and spill and in both cases the wide spill eventually returns to the color of the hotspot. When I say "white" hotspot I feel like the Samsung emitter is just under 5K and I only really think that when I put it next to a floody 219C 5K.
That is a really nice comparison contactcr! And you actually managed to take pictures that look pretty much like what you see in real life (I never manage that), well done!
Btw, my C8F with Luxeon V leds I measure at exact the same output as your LH351D version: 3150lm @ 30 seconds.
The light was given to me by a member who got it from someone else.
Might not be one of your pills but looks like one and nicely made so I gave you credit,
It has a brass screw in retaining ring, looks just like this one.
CRX, i’m impressed
You do great modding, I can’t imagine the tiny sleeper with a SST40, reminds me of a Top Fuel Dragster. You Scottish are very inventive
I with you on that I love to watch the Golf Tournaments on TV when they play on your Courses. Those are where the Real Men play, The Bunkers are deep, the Wind never stops, and Gorse is Hell.
Found out last night that 1 of my lanterns didn’t work due to a burnt out light bulb, so I updated it today. I had an old aluminum MCPCB cool white LED from a cheapo flashlight that I was able to use.
First I determined the proper resistor to give the LED around 3 volts. Then screwed it onto a washer to help with heat dissipation. And finally secured it onto the lantern.
The incandescent bulb base goes up to 135 degrees Fahrenheit vs 124 max for the LED.
The incandescent measures 0.5 amps vs 0.1 for the LED. So with 4 eneloop AA batteries, the run time goes from 15 hours to 76. The LED is not quite as bright as the incandescent, but it’s still plenty bright. And even though it’s cool white, everyone in my family (besides me) prefers that tint over the warm white incandescent.
Nekkid! :D
Decided to strip the ano from the S2+ shorty, widen the bezel by 1mm, swap in three XP-L HI emitters, two red trits at the tail and a new white switch boot.
Around 2800lm at start up now.
I rebuilt the charger module in my MBI HF-R Ti Nichia 219C so it now has an increased max charging current of 250mA and made the momentary side button a lighted locator switch with red LED.
The momentary direct drive side button gives around 760lm now from an Efest 10440 cell & the rotary tail switch operates through the five modes from 250,150, 30, 5, 1lm?
The length of the brass charging/ switch unit is around 20mm, 10mm width.
, soon these two lights will be converted to high class gadgets by the usual CRX-magic 
