I really didn’t care for the 2 stage reflector in the X5 Pro, so last night I fitted it with a reduced Illuminations Machines LUM 5-90. May have been easier overall to go out to the lathe and make a copper spacer but I did it by hand using copper discs cut to fit then re-flowed together. Raised the emitter about a 1/4” and went back to the XM-L2. Now the beam is actually nicer and the light has a new look. 
(plus there is a LOT more copper under the emitter)
Finished most of my Lumensphere. Got some Numbers on my flashlights.
e.g.
- Imalent DX80 28.500 Lumen
- Acebeam K60 NW Dedomed: 4300 Lumen
- Astrolux MF04S Stock 7000 Lumen
Do you have a description and/or pictures of how you made it? I’m always curious about how others make their lumen measuring devices.
Its not jet ready. At least I want to make a box around it, to put it into this stool
Now I can not put the top cover on it because the 40cm sphere is some centimeters too high, so I have to build the Box.
Now the sphere has some aluninium foil around.
I have made some pictures and want to make a report about it. Perhaps I can put them in a album the next days.
Are you saying your previous measurements were all low compared with your new one? How did you calibrate your new one?
Built up a Eagle Eye X6 with a Luxeon MZ 5700K and MTN FET+1
I wanted to get creative and use this optic, like I believe Dale used (not sure if it’s the exact same).
However, there was still a slight cross in the beam and it was very hard to center. It probably would have been fine with any other LED but I thought since Ledil supported the MZ LED with this the beam would be a bit better. I ended up sanding the feet down a bit too much and it got worse so I scrapped that idea.
Went back to the stock reflector with the centering ring reamed out a bit and used some DC Fix. I don’t trust my lumen numbers because I think the DC Fix is throwing just a bit of side light into the sensor.
VTC5A
15.xx amps (taken after ~1m of turbo)
2,777lm at 0s
2,443lm at 30s
Impressive though still, being the smallish X6, right?
I haven’t used a Luxeon MZ in anything before, but I think I used the MT-G2 under an optic like that or very similar. Not very easy to do, but then, I don’t typically do mods that are easy as it’s more about the challenge. 
I was beware that my lumenbox has some problems with throwers and far reaching allrounders. My Acebeam K60 had unmoded somthing above 4000 Lumen but was far away from 5000 Lumen it should have. With the K70 the readings was too low, too. The same for the MT09R XHP35HI as I have mentioned in the original thread.
But with the Olight X9R I have discovered, that not only throwers have problems in my tube, floody lumenmonsters are too low, too.
My other readings with flooders and allrounders below 10,000 lumen were good compared to other lumen readings in BLF and TLF.
With the X9R I could not get the lumens in my lumenbox because of the sensor which lowers the output if something is near in front of the flashligt. Or in other words I could only read the lumen till output level L5, above it steps down.
Therefore I used our toilet for ceiling bounce comparison to aproximate the higher output levels. Than I compared this procedure with my Imalent DX80.
Here you can find a table with the results:
(In the table is a mistake, my second reading of the DX80 was not the lumenbox, it was the toilete)
I have calibrated my sphere with the 500 lumen level of my DX80 comparing to my lumenbox.
e.g. with my unmodded BLF Q8 from the first run with countersink screws, I get nearly 5000 Lumen with full LG MH1 batteries.
On my DX80 I get around 28,500 Lumen, compared to other measurements in the TLF: Imalent DX80 - Tests / Erfahrungsberichte zum Passaround | Taschenlampen Forum
Imalent DX80 - Tests / Erfahrungsberichte zum Passaround | Taschenlampen Forum
Imalent DX80 - Tests / Erfahrungsberichte zum Passaround | Taschenlampen Forum
Perhaps my calibration is a bit low. I will recheck it in the future with other flashlights.
This talk of spheres and a good black friday deal inspired me to start mine. Plus, my daughter and I finished coloring the entire cardboard box it came in so might as well open it and start…
Bobbersphere
First tool, mini hack saw
Upgrade to dremel and see if we can melt plastic.
So far so good. Haven’t even broke through the double wall of the “cooler”
The plan is something like this, but I think I need to do a bit more djozz thread studying. Very much open to suggestions…
To be continued… (hopefully with a little help from you guys)
I was wondering when the first Bobbersphere would be made on BLF. It is an American thing but when it was mentioned first I had already been looking at it. 
The plan will work fine like that but the extra pipe-with-bend that you are planning should not be needed for integration, the sphere does the integration already. But on second thoughts the extra bend will help to reduce the light on the detector, getting you a better measuring range. So: 
In fact anything white that lets light bounce around a couple of times without escaping, with at every bounce there is a chance of hitting the detector, will already get you a workable integration, there are many ways that work.
But in the most simple and geometrically correct integrating sphere the detector is mounted directly onto the sphere (90 degrees from the incoming hole) and can ‘see’ every corner of the sphere (except directly at the light source that is blocked by a baffle midway the entry hole and detector) so that from every position on the sphere’s inner wall light is equally able to reach the detector. That said ( 
) , it looks very good what you are making.
OK, here are some pictures. I have to write my report.
For the Sphere, I want to build a box to fit inside the seat, because the sphere is a bit too high to close the seat.
Here are the pictures:
I designed and 3D printed a tactical ring on my newest flashlight. The Nitecore MT20C. The switch has quite strong spring so I decided to make cigar grip and thumb grip switching easier with a tactical ring.
Made anti-roll cuts and holes for lanyard. And made it to be reversible if someone likes the flat side forward. And made two versions for clip and without belt clip use. I can’t get more out of a tactical ring
3d printed diffusers for D4.
Walls are only 0.5 mm, without any seam, printed in spiral mode. White and blue.
But nobody needs a blue diffuser …
Nice ring, zozz!
Thee are really cool!
Thank you! The diffusers also nice!
THE MOAD
(Mother Of All Diffusers, or simply call it light saber …)
3d printed, 200 mm length, for D4, looks particularly nice with my RGBW HAL 9000 .
I guess my son will like it when he returns from school …
Cool
CRX SR4-T
Copper, Brass & Titanium construction
Quad Nichia 219C 5000K emitters
20mm Copper DTP MCPCB
20mm x 7mm solid copper heatsink
22mm x 2mm dual coated ARC glass
Emisar D4v2 ramping driver
Copper & glass tritium momentary tail switch
Lockout-able
Magnetic cell contacts
56, 2mm x 2mm magnets in tail
18650 cell compatible
Length – 97mm
Width – 25mm
Weight – 185g (with 18650 cell)
And the next irresistible beauty …
