Thanks!
I thought the most boring part will be mcpcb polishing.
It turned out that it was cleaning holes for tir optics from excess thermal paste.
A little collection of 4000K loaded lights:
I replaced the XP-L HD in the SP32A with a LH351D, replaced an XP-L HI in the S2+ with the 351D that was in the generic zooming light (with A6 clip) and put a 219C in the zoomie.
I felt I wasn't getting as much out of the 351D in that zoomie (typical with any small aspheric) as I would if it were in an SMO reflector. The SP32A has a great SMO reflector and even tames the 351D beam to be fairly focused. The 219C (from MTN) is one of the more rosy 4000K but I didn't notice it until I put it behind the convex lens. And it gets hot, pushed at 5A+ by a Convoy SST40 driver.
I loaded my pockets and took these out to my 'test range' for tint comparisons from 3 LED manufacturers.
Tried to slice another one after posting and chipped the phosphor. :person_facepalming: I guess I have a blue led now.
I read somewhere that I shouldnāt worry much about the bond wires in an LH351D? Having a hard time looking for it or I guess I was just lucky while slicing it and didnāt snag anything.
Same here. Sliced it since people says it reduces the greenish tint
contactcr is right. My bad. I edited my post just in case someone reads it.
@contactcr Thanks for your video and measurements! Used it as a guide for this mod.
Looks like you made the host :nerd_face: Any more build pics 
Yes please And the feet and coffee are misleading, I bet that was a lot of work 
Canāt remember for sure but the LH351D may be a flip chip technology, will have to re-investigate that. If do the bond wires are on bottom and slicing is easier but in this style of emitter there is typically phosphor surrounding the die on the substrate that also excites and is the cause of the odd aura, dicing around the die to remove the unnecessary phosphor around the perimeter yields the optimal result. Cree XHP 2 emitters and the XP-G3 really fare well with the slice and dice treatment.
Iāve slept since slicing a 351 so Iāll have to look back into it, my memory makes all this a PITA, everythingās new so much of the timeā¦
Yes, the 351 is flip chip so no bond wires on top to break. No, they donāt have surrounding phosphor like Cree emitters, slice as close to the phosphor as you dare and I recommend no dicing in order to prevent chipping the phosphor edge.
All phosphor removed, this is how a bare silicone die 351 lights a room on direct drive. Emitter is on a heat sink, nothing but a test cell.
NovaTac/FW1Pro 50.2 3voltā¦sortaā¦
Next to the FW3/NovaTac tripleā¦
Swapped out the 50.2 for a XP-L HI V4 3C to try out, then HI CRI SST-20 from Blue Sword nextā¦.
Can you post details about driver swap?
I have one FW driver and not working 120T, this was my idea also :)
EDIT: just realized you made a new alu pill for the driver/mcpcb
Made these a few weeks ago. Another couple big builds :)
CRX CuTi Bolti Nichia 219C 4000K 90CRI - DD - 10440 - Bolt Action Sw - 350lm.
Single mode bolt action torch.
Made from a titanium straw, pocket bellows and other bits & pieces.
.
.
CRX CuSS AAA LH351D 5000K - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 100lm.
Copper & stainless steel single mode torch.
^^^^^^^^^
O
M
G
Thatās pretty much my reaction anytime CRX posts anything lol.
He sure comes up with some nifty stuff !
Yep. 
Seriously CRX, youāre an animal 
I donāt know why I even bother but FWIW, since I gave away all my C01ās at Xmas and theyāre basically out-of-stock. I decided to check out the Klarus Mi02 (currently on sale at SBFlashlights). Turns out the Mi02 is perfect lego with Sofirn C01. Took the occassion to swap out the old Nichia CS for a hi-cri Yugi 3K.
Unlike Fenix E01 and Sofirn C01, no potting, just some white adhesive that softened when heated.
Before (left) and After (right) (WB was set to 5000K so Nichia CS āangry blueā actually doesnāt look bad in photo)
After LED swap I applied a conformal coating to protect circuit board from water, not as protective as potting but hopefully better than nothing. And after assembly a light solder coating at all contact wear points.
EDIT - I did a second Mi02 mod and discovered that all Mi02ās are not the same. My second unit was fully potted?! It came out with some heat but swapping the āangry blueā Nichia CS with a hi-CRI required laboriously picking away at the potting compound. I also replaced the 7.5Ohm resistor with a 10Ohm to reduce current slightly.
Heavenly work from CRX again! And descending back to us mere mortals: nice job pc_light, good to see that all those 5mm lights lego with each other. I still hope for a C01 host version soon.
Built a light engine for a Crelant 7G5 and used a new 90.2 in itā¦ totally forgot about the high power glitch in a Bistro driver and didnāt address the driver Iād built for it years agoā¦ it glitches going into level 6 of 7. Ugh! Going back in this morning to correct that memory lapse.
Be careful! I donāt think you are supposed to operate on yourself
New CFexpress card installed through left ear, memory and read speed greatly improved!
Ok, so for the Crelant 7G5 SBT-90.2 build I got the new driver built and the fix for Bistro on it, rebuilt the light and am very pleased with the resultsā¦
A big part of the choice for using this light was the tail end, as it holds a heavy duty Tofty switch. These were built in England some years back and were $25 apiece! Worth it though when you need a quality switch that carries serious power, as this light now doesā¦ A Samsung 25S cell gives 23.2A at the tail for 4240 lumens out the front. Lux is 352.5Kcd for 1187.43M throw. I Like It!
I built a light engine/heat sink to replace the emitter shelf area and I made it about an inch longer than there was room for, bored the end of the battery tube to accept this extra length and tie the heat sinking into the battery tube. 
I needed a spacer as the tube is still longer than an 18650, so I used a .458 Hamār brass soldered onto a switch board, the board keeps the spacer centered and the heavy BlueSword spring contacts the brass screw in the Tofty switch.
In the Crelant 7G5 the reflector has a 53mm opening and is approximately 55mm deep, this yields an excellent hot spot that is fat and well defined, the beam profile is a tube/column of light much like a very fat laser. Will get beam shots later tonightā¦
What with multiple interruptions it was somewhat of a hassle to build, but well worth it in the end! A great update to a nice old light, very happy with itās performanceā¦ I just need to find some more Samsung 25S cells now. lol