I would love them even more if they came in copper :D
ThruNite Ti (the original one, in Titanium) AAA-based. It is 162 lumens at max but starts out on firefly which is very nice. Has a Cree XP-L V4.
Great little light! Nice that it comes with a NW option but really easy to swap LEDs, too. I put a 3000k 80cri XPL in and its nice. Just wish the ti threads weren’t so scratchy.
Mine doesn’t seem scratchy but I’ve had it on my key chain for 5 years and use it frequently (I do IT work so often behind a rack in a poorly-lit datacenter). It may have been scratchy when I first got it but I don’t remember.
I never thought about modifying it. Got any advice on that? Mine is actually the CW option and I would be happy with something that has a higher CRI but I don’t know about going down to 3000K. Most lighting I’m used to is neutral/cool so 3000K would be too orange-looking.
The 3000k xpl actually looks brown to my eye. Its ok, better than CW for me but not ideal compared to my nichias, sst-20’s and even a couple neutral XHP lights. As far as modding, its about as easy as it gets. Pill unscrews with some needle tip tweezers and everything is just right there. The mcpcb did appear to have some epoxy but it was easily defeated. I unsoldered the leads from the mcpcb then took that out and just used a soldering iron to reflow a different XPL on there. Any 3535 leds would work, though. XP2, Nichia 219, SST-20, another XPL, maybe a nichia 319 I’m not sure. Then just resolder the leads and button up. I didn’t bother to epoxy the board back down since it is held in place by pressure as well as locating pins on the retainer. I don’t remember if I had to heat it at all to break the pill loose but I don’t think it required anything too aggressive (like boiling).
Any suggestions on a good source of 90+ CRI XPL emitters? I have another one thats stock still…
I felt the same way about my Titanium Thrunite, until I bought this stuff, now its really smooth
my favorite light is a Copper Tool w eSwitch and sw45k LED mod
the middle one
I have a set of copper twisties too, they are very nice, but I prefer to use the tailswitch of the Tool
the nice thing is the twisty heads lego to the clicky body, and vice versa
I still don’t get why there’s no titanium Tool with the regular one’s clicky. It’s so good!
I find 1 x AAA perfect for EDC, and my 348s are my most carried lights. I have one BLF 348 with a Nichia 219c, two with LH351Bs (3000K and 3500K), and another couple waiting for emitter swaps. I love how slim they are, the tail-clicky is easy to use and never activates in may pocket, and one mode is perfectly adequate. Unfortunately the clips are useless and the switches don’t fare well in the washing machine, but I haven’t lost one yet.
I think I once on BLF that said something to the effect of “If there are two otherwise identical flashlights but one is branded Skywolfeye, the Skywolfeye will somehow be worse” but you’ve piqued my interest. 
I’ve ordered a B16 plus a sacrificial single-mode light to harvest the driver from. Do you have a driver in mind for yours?
If I do it it will probably be MTN-10DD because it runs BLF UI and compared to other options (like having someone build a wight driver for me) - cheap.
I may give modifying mine a try. I have the same question, no idea where to get high CRI emitters.
I do have access to a rework station and I figure that will be best for changing the emitter.
219b will fit the stock mcpcb
available from azhu in the wts section
Im a pink tint snob.
I love the 219b
.
sw45k it is my favorite,
most people like the sw40,
I do not like the sw35 much,
sw30 yes please, when I want juicy warm
I find xp-l overly yellow/green (above the bbl, aka positive duv)
I don’t really like pink/red/orange. I prefer a neutral white but I guess those are not high CRI? It seems I need to go with 4000K or so?
Most of my lights are cool white so I’m just used to it. My Surefire T1A is too blue if that helps.
Neutral White can be Low CRI or it can be High CRI
4000k is part of Neutral White range.
Cool white lights are almost never High CRI.
This is a complex subject, involving multiple variables including Color Temperature, Tint, and CRI.
yes a 4000k 219b would be a good place to start. They are Neutral White, with pink tint, and High CRI.
Whether you notice the pink tint depends on the time of day. At night you wont see it, during the day you might. This is a complex subject involving the White Balance of your brain, in response to ambient light color temperature.
welcome to the exploration
here are a few photos to help you see color temperature differences
these are all High CRI (warm, neutral, and cool whites)
these are all High CRI Neutral White (but different Tints)
I could go on, but this may not be the right thread for it. If you search my posts you will find many many photos, as Ive spent a lot of time comparing LEDs.
enjoy the process of discovering what LEDs you like.
Continuing the conversation here: My first dive in to light modification (hardware and firmware)
Sorry about dragging the thread off-topic
My favorite aaa is the original Foursevens Preon 1, with an added clicky. It is 3 1/4” long, 1/2” wide, titanium with a red aluminum body. It will run on a 10440, putting out ~ 360 lumens on high. I have carried it for ten years and though I am always looking I have never found one better. I expect it will be in my pocket until death do us part.
Honestly I don’t use any of my aaa enough to recommend. If I was to get another I would look for neutral tint and enough efficiency for very long runtime.
+1
The titanium 2.0 AA version has a regular clicky. I’m actually a big fan of the e-switch. It’s unique and works well for me.
Maratac Cu AAA Rev.2 circa summer 2012. Two perfect modes: dim (~1.5 lum.) and “bright enough” ~70 lumens. Perfect regulation and near-class leading efficiency.
Manufacturers have pushed AAA drivers too hard the past 6 years or so IMO, and efficiency has taken a back seat to peak output.