GT Mini wiring and driver can DEFINITELY supply more than 4.5A.
Without a clamp meter you’re not getting the full reading of the current and some emitters like XPL HI will pull less current than others anyway.
Interesting - will have to look into it. Might even be a way to modify Anduril to PWM it down. Will research further before putting the emitter in.
I want to buy the flat white and a GT Mini, but I am guessing a driver switch would be needed also for this mod because it is going to push more than 4-4.5 Amps. Is this correct?
If I did get the new C8 the tan version, what is that driver pushing in amps? Can I just buy a flat white and install it like I would the GT mini, just do an emitter swap for the flat white, and if so is it going to use the 20mm also?
This is my first mod on a factory light without building it from the ground up and only did that a couple times.
The mcpcb of the tan c8+ is 20mm. the c8(the previous model) has almost the same specs. Like same driver and mcpcb size, but the difference is that the reflector opening of the c8+ is 7mm and the c8 9mm. Int outdoor only sells the 7mm gasket. If you get a c8+ you can just swap emiters. It will be around 3.5 amp, but it is plenty bright and already gets hot pretty fast with a full 18650. You can also buy a led4power driver which can be set to 4.5 amp.
Yeah my desert tan C8+ white flat combo is amazing. Tail clicky always ready to fire from the pocket!
You can ask Simon to send a SMO reflector with 7mm bottom hole from his AliExpress store.
I don’t understand the purpose of a ramping UI in a thrower. Or any mode other than high. It’s a purpose built flashlight for throwing light a long distance. It does that really well and doesn’t do that well up close due to the narrow beam.
I use LD-A4 drivers in my throwers. High mode descending to moonlight, so two modes only, no mode memory.
I like throw too but i dont carry two lights so a lower mode for up close is better than no light at all or a too bright hotspot that screws up your nightvision