Fair enough TA. It was a long a time, but, I quit working on it even longer ago. 1.7.1 was posted at Christmas of 2017, so 10 months earlier than your comment, and it still works. I developed in the open before that exactly to get this idea available for anyone interested and show proof of principle within a popular driver series, and ended up pressing on to make it actually I think a pretty robust build in that driver. Anyway, I didn't have anything against you in those days either, to say the least, and it's good to see you still around. The comment was a little sloppy, but it happens, so no hard feelings there.
Yeah, ok, that's not helping, the fact remains you haven't reported any bugs in the HD thread (at all actually), particularly that I didn't know about and already fix. ;) But you clarified that, so we're good.
I took it farther than I ever meant to really, and wouldn't be ashamed if there were bugs (probably is SOMETHING), just didn't like the appearance of vague claims without specific reports.
In fact this all started in the "attiny development thread," and I did post simple proof of concept codes or snippets there I believe, I could dig one up, but I'm sure Flashy Mike's above serves quite well for that. He was in the middle of it all. It might or might not encompass everything I learned (tested) about pin states, fuses, watchdog details, brown out corruption, keeping voltage sense levels above pin stated threshold, shutting down quickly enough, etc which is relevant to the next point, but I'm sure it does work properly. The fact is the principle is simple, but there are a lot of details that do really matter.
And on that note, to close the loop on a technical point that Tom Tom raised above. The cap is certainly not just a cap with a value. That's completely wrong. Many caps perform MUCH MUCH worse than their nominal specs at the temps we run lights at, which was the whole OTC problem to start with. I don't recall now if that's reduced capacitance, increased leakage, or I think a lot of both. A 100uF ceramic cap will do much worse than a 47uF tantalum cap as I recall, once heated. I tried a stack of ceramic caps I had as my first experiment. I ran real test on sleep power consumption, estimating current draw and times for pin state reads, ADC reads, etc, and checked capaciticance specs for real temps involved. In the end it's slightly overkilled indeed. I got over 10s (I think 12 even) of sleep at room temp, after optimizing a lot, figuring out the V-chip issue, pin state details, etc, but that's with only 1/4 second timing resolution and room temp. It will drop almost in half at 1/8s timing resolutions (twice as many wakes), and heat still impacts this cap too, just less. That said it's still certainly plenty safe, and I know lexel used some cheaper caps with some luck. I specced it for modders. If you're spending 10 hours ordering parts for building a light, no point saving $1 on a cap. I think the right way to go cheaper is just with a lower capacticance, tantalum cap, but even then, possibly not just any random one.
I also noticed you echoed the point about "universal drivers:
https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/files/head:/Flintrock/bistro-hd/configs
It took me literally about 3 minutes to modify a configuration for the Q8 version (the last one I added), and it flashed and worked. It's what HD was all about. Of course it was still one UI, but mostly only because that's all I included.
