The 1.6mm thick copper star will conduct heat better than a lot thin 0.8mm alum stars on thin shelves
The point is how much surface you will have in the end with a very low gap to fill
If you can really solder it to the pipe the heat conduction will be for sure good enough for DD
just look that you got about 40mm² surface to bind to the tube that’s 9 times more than from the LED thermal pad to the star
and the thermal resistance is a lot lower than for heat paste on the same surface
for thermal paste the area is 8 times bigger but the thermal resistance is about equally worse
“Should” be able to solder it using a Wagner heat gun and Uniweld P4KD9S Soft Solder, which is made for soldering soft metals such as copper to aluminum, unless you guys here at BLF have a better solder to use I’m not aware of. My issue with this is possible damage to the Noctigon and/or solder climbing up the pipes hold down threads. If the entirety of the threads happen to soak up solder then that could potentially ruin the project entirely.
I guess one could solder both the copper shelf AND Noctigon to the pipe? That would be 1.55mm plus 1.2mm of copper for the heat to transfer through. I like the idea of adding a copper shelf regardless because I have control on exactly how I shape it to fit, thus making the shelf much tighter than the Noctigon would be on its own. But like I said solder might fill the threads that are responsible for holding the ring that holds the star into place.
I’m not even sure how to solder this Noctigon to this pipe or shelf. I mean, do I do so with or without the LED already installed? Will my Wagner HT1000 damage the LED? Do I heat it from the sides only, from the bottom only? Normally I use a stove and old pan for reflowing LED’s, but this is far different. Which is why I am thinking thermal adhesives and jb weld work only here.