The star is 20 mm., the space the star sits in is 22 mm., the space behind the star is about 16 mm.
The unfinished aluminum ring that holds the star in is threaded in, with no notches so snap ring pliers are required to get it out. I supposed it was a force fit and pried it out, but the threads seem to have survived that.
Thanks Fritz.
I finally order one from ebay. Just couldn’t get myself to order from AliExpress. Anyone know if prepaid VISA cards work with Ali?
At one time, these were $6.80/each on Ali in 10 packs. This might make a nice GB candidate.
Finally realized the model name… SkyRay M12
Here are the pill parts,
a pipe end and a copper star with the coatings sanded off and filed to fit.
Joined,
In place.
I don’t have thermal epoxy, so I applied epoxy to the bottom part and used a lot of Arctic Silver under the star, so some would run between the plug and pill.
The SkyRay is on the right and my modified SingFire SF-360 on the left.
The SkyRay has four AAA Eneloops in it, as I intend to give it to my small nephew. It has the DX lens in it now, but the bezel ring doesn’t screw all the way down.
I will file some more later. I also plan to file the back of the sliding head a couple of millimeters to bring the LED closer to the lens on full flood, to improve the flood.
The optical quality of the DX lens is not perfect, but good enough for a flashlight.
With the 4 Eneloops charged to 1.5 V each, I measure 2.8 A. That is with my cheap meter, so it could be briefly in regulation at 3.04 A.
I’m working on one of these as well. It really is not a very good light. Poor threads on the tail cap; serious lack of water tightness due to many missing O-rings; Even had smoke coming out of it when I removed the lens. I did get 3 amps out of it just before the modes quit working… as the wires where being shorting where they entered the star MCPCB. And the driver isn’t the normal 17mm diameter.
I did get a nice copper hue during the oven bake where all the parts still match.
A 20 to 17 mm. brass adapter ring worked fine for my 105c driver. I may have o-rings that fit. My tail cap fits well, but the pill threads are loose. There is so much thread that that doesn’t matter much. I like it except for the hollow pill, but for my next one I ordered an other CNQ host, not another of these. No comparison in build quality.
With a slightly more careful fix for the hollow pill, I think this would be the best cooled zoomy I had.
Can you open one and tell us if the pill is solid?
I have the impression from all the above and related threads that these are the same thing, that is from the same factory, re-branded. Often the earlier production of a type is superior to later production, as is well (or at least profusely) documented on the ZeusRay thread.
At this point, this is the best 26650 zoomy that I know about, and I will order another “SkyRay M12” if I want another 26650 light.
I wasn’t going to fill the pill; just epoxy a Noctigon to the ledge. I’m only running an XP-E2 red emitter at 1.05 amps. That should be sufficient.
I also happened to have an adapter ring of sorts so I can get the 17mm driver in there. The stock driver isn’t too bad as it drives an XM-L at 2.8 amps.
I also machined off the lip that hold the head tube. It really doesn’t to anything.
Do you mean the ridge around the body that limits how far the head can slide back, so the pill doesn’t touch the lens? I have lights where the pill does touch the lens, and that doesn’t seem to do any harm unless there is a lot of goop on the front of the pill. I filed the sliding head shorter but got tired after about a millimeter.
Yes, the rim on the battery tube that keeps the head from sliding all the way off without removing the pill.
I also machined the threads out of the pill on the emitter side to get a larger diameter at the lens.
Just finished my 1 amp, 17-mode XP-E2 red version of the M12. A lot more steps than I wanted but it is my 1st 26650 zoomie.
I got a nice even flood after some serious lathe work. The Noctigon MCPCB was epoxied with Arctic silver to a cleaned up 1mm edge.
At 3 watts on high, the DTP through the copper MCPCB should be more than sufficient in drawing heat away from the die quickly.
If I was running this at 10 watts, I might have to think twice about that.
Now that I have it at a nice copper color from the 50 minutes of oven broil, it makes for a fairly unique light in my collection.
Pics?
SkyRay M12
Never saw the Keygos. IIRC, they were harder to take apart because they glued the pill’s threads.
I need it more functional than pretty. The intent is a bike tail light with extended runtime.
The EVVA cell is a true 5000mah cell so in the right mode, I may be close to 15 hours of runtime.
I need to do some testing.
Strobe and 1hz are about 50% duty cycle which should provide 10 hours runtime.
Police mode and 1/3hz is closer to 33% duty cycle.
One at a time… :weary:
It looks nice baked. Is that a diffuser by the lens? Yes I think that is enough cooling for 3 W.
Mine was very ringy with the DX lens, so I painted it black around the LED.
I finished filing the bezel ring.
The bevel along the lens-side edge of the pill is what got rid of the rings in mine… and the plate, of course.
The beam shot is with a diffuser in place yes. It has a nice crisp edge without the diffuser at full zoom.