I have a number of 2.8a drivers but where is everyone getting these 3-4-5 amp drivers? Any available in the typical p60 size driver? Single li-ion?
You want 5 amp to fit a p60? Have you been talking to scaru too much?
One option is to stack A LOT of 7135 chips, or use a slave board, but that’ll add deapth and depend on your pill. I’d be iffy about 5a in something less than a keygos m10 in mass, and it’d have to be a good m10, recent examples appear to be poor.
I would consider something like this but I’ll report back on this in a couple of weeks.
For ease, you might fit an off the shelf 5a driver in this host but I’ve not tried one yet to confirm, the switch, in another host is rated at 3a which is amazing for the size of it (fricken tiny!).
I really want to try fitting an xp-g2 in a convoy l2 host from fasttech, but I like 2 x 26650 hosts for throwers/area of effect lights, the torchlite cd-v7 host from edc+ is another obvious candidate as
It’ll take a 5a or 9a driver pretty easily.
Sorry I didn’t mean I wanted 5 amp out of a p60, but that generic sized driver is more what I meant. I wouldn’t mind 3-4 amp out of a p60 host on copper sink though!
I agree, I am tempted by that L2 as well. Right now I am modding my unique fire uf-t20 to fit a 20mm star and then it will get the xml2 on copper sinkpad I just re flowed. It is also getting a 4+ amp driver. Can’t wait to see the results.
Would a XP-G25C S4 2B be able to handle 5 amps after dedomed?
The XP-G2 can handle it no problem, the question is if the cell & driver can supply it 
If you use a high amp buck driver then it is no problem, but if you plan to run it DD from a single 18650, the high Vf of the high flux bins XP-G2’s make it very hard to sustain over 5A for more than an instant.
So what is the max amp for the xp-g2? I’m thinking of using the low profile 17 mm buck driver from RMM
That emitter S2 2B is strange, it runs at 5.6amps even with a unbridged spring AND 22 awg wire( with a fresh battery ofc), i builded like a dozen C8s this way, they all run fine for now
Ofc you cant expect 25K working hours……more or less at 5 amps the emitters life would be 10% of its original one, but 2500 hours ( till it degrades at 70%) are a good value for a flashing, to reach it you have to use that torch for 3 hours every single day in 2 years time frame
2500 hours it just a guess,who knows they could be 1200 hours: even so its a good time frame fro a flashlight
The choice about what max amp you want Richard to build his MTN-MAXlp HP driver for a XP-G2 build, is more about how much heat your host can take and how much runtime you want and not if the XP-G2 S4 2B can take it or not. The XP-G2 S4 2B can take more than 5.5A that is the max of that driver
And if you want lower amp, there is always modes.
Personally i always goes for max amp that i can possibly build in any build i do :bigsmile:, but it is up to you if you go for max or want to get more run time out of your build, i don’t have a problem swapping in fresh cell when ever my lights run down so i always go for max amp and max output.
Interesting, i have to pick up some from fasttech 
Do you think they would still look nice and NW dedomed even if i gas dedome them? I haven’t learned yet how to do hot dedomes.
I dont do gas dedoming anymore, my exp says it always change the tint more than hot electrical dedoming…… well, i havent learned too rofl , especialy when i am in a huggy Today i killed 2 XML2 in a row cause of my hurriness….thats why old people here says: Hurry slowly- but someone has to listen you know…anyway, if a am rested and carefull enought i kill like 1 emitter at 10 dedomings, so its bareable
I also have only done gas dedomes so far. I gas-dedomed the XP-G2 2B emitter that came stock in my XinTD C8. It was pretty terrible. Piss yellow with a green halo, kinda. I ordered a 1D emitter, gas dedomed that and its much better. Still a bit yellow, but no green.
You didn’t say what you’re trying to do here, but de-doming XP-G2s pretty much always means going for serious throw. I’m driving that dedomed XP-G2 1D at 4.5 amps in that C8 and it measures 158k cd. Its a fantastic thrower.
Yeah you are right, i forgot that i have tried to gas dedome the S4 2B and that looked bad, it throws great though.
Ok, thanks for reminding me. The XP-G2 mini thrower plan is off until i can find a xp-g2 that i can get dedomed in gas and still look NW good.
I think i will just use the XP-L V5 2A for now they should get very close to 3D when dedomed in gas. To bad we can’t get them in V6 though.
Oh GREAT! I’m using a Niwalker 750N1 as host! So no worry about heat there I think! Does RMM do gas dedome or electrical dedome? I want really nice NW after dedome…
Credits to selfbuilt
FWIW, I am running an XP-G2 S2 1D dedomed in my TN32 which is supposed to be about 6A to the emitter. Plus it is a 3S carrier so it can deal with the high Vf the XP-G2 needs at that current.
I think Richard only do hot dedomes, but i view the XP-G2 S4 2B as the option for max throw at any cost, and that includes the tint because it starts above the BBL & those tints are always more susceptible to getting more green or yellow after a dedome.
But i haven’t done a hot dedomed one yet but i am sure they look nicer than gas dedomed versions, and doing it hot at least reduce the problem as much as we know how yet while still getting max throw.
BBL=Big Beautiful Light?
No BBL is short for Black Body Locus. It is the faint line that goes right across the ANSI chart.
And the 2B tint is above that line and when you dedome a led, the tint goes a few steps to the right and in most cases also up.
That means the lower you start from the BBL the less risk there are it will turn green or yellow. BBL basically means pure white but in different color temperatures, the problem with that is it is very hard to make led’s come in to exactly on the BBL and that is why we even have lots of tints to chose from. To get perfectly on the BBL they often have to mix tints from above and below the BBL and together they even out to white.
Black body locus
Thanks Alex
So would it be better to dedome a S4 2B or S2 1D?
I know that the 1D has a lesser chance of getting green but the S4 bin has more lumens…