I use protected large capacity cells for this. Namely Fenix 3500 and xtar 3400. I think they both use the panasonic NCR as a base. Having a greater capacity makes sense with this since you can carry a lot of juice and charge it whenever you need without the need for a second battery. Also, this saves you from changing batteries all the time.
Note that a Panasonic NCR will not let this light achieve it’s maximum brightness by a significant margin. If that’s important, I recommend a Sony VTC6 or a Samsung 30Q. I trust the low voltage protection in the driver in combination with the safer INR chemistry enough to go without a protection circuit (which would trip anyway at the higher currents). The capacity of a VTC6 or a 30Q is only a couple hundred mAh less than an NCR.
You sure about that? I’m using an unprotected panny-B and it seems just as bright (ceiling-bounce, no instruments) as when I stick a 30Q into it.
I’m A/B testing against a modded F13 with 3A buck driver.
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And yeah, I don’t use protected cells anymore except in lights with cheapcrap “dumb” drivers (eg, parallelled chip-resistors).
I saw a review that showed in turbo the F1 draws 4 Amperes.
A weak cell sags more, so it wouldn’t be able to maintain the highest output for long.
I’d actually consider that a plus, considering built-up heat in such a small light.
OK, I tested a freshly charged NCR18650B against a fresh Samsung 30Q in the Zanflare. The 30Q made 15% more lux as determined by a phone app. I suppose whether or not that’s significant (or perceivable) is up to the individual.
It wasn’t to me. 
Not surprising, though. Even side-by-side dunno if many people would be able to distinguish a 15% difference.
Hello,
Is it possible to reactivate this coupon?
Thanks