After 15+ short taps, you go into so called configuration mode. After 15+ taps, light goes OFF and then there will be two sets of two blinks. The first set of two blinks toggles 7-/4-mode, and the second set of two blinks toggles memory mode on/off. You toggle a setting by turning off BETWEEN the two blinks.
To toggle mode memory, for example, after 15+ taps, light goes OFF, blink, blink, and then blink. You now turn off — before the second blink. You now set mode memory. Turn off the light. Turn on the light and go to Turbo. Turn off light and then turn on. You should now get Turbo.
Doesn’t matter what settings you have specified, it should never be next-mode memory. Something is physically wrong with that driver/light. I’d check for stray solder in the tailcap first, tben check for a good connection on the offtime cap on the driver
It sounds like your capacitor is either not draining at all or incredibly slowly. That means the driver always thinks you “short-pressed” (to use TK’s terminology) no matter how long the light was off.
I am about to trash this pile of junk. checked over the driver solder connections, switch connections, everything is ok. it is just stuck without any hidden modes, and has only next-mode memory and cant change it. I also broke off the tip on my snap ring pliers trying to get that threaded driver loose, and ended up scratching up the threads using pliers to get it loose. It looks nice, but a flashlight that has only next-mode memory and not work as its supposed to is a waste of money no matter how pretty it looks.
Prolly more fun to put it in front of a bullet. Try hitting it end on for a challenge. Personally I would try for a driver swap but then I don’t own a .300.
The major problem with the first batch was bad soldering in the head assembly. My problem — getting into the configuration mode — got “fixed” after BG sent me a head assembly replacement without sending in the head assembly as with many others.
its a nice light, but hate the next-mode memory its stuck in. Its disappointing too to receive such an anticipated custom light that supposed to be perfected to our design & wishes, but to get only a defective one.
I know this is an A6 thread but I recently bought an Astrolux S41 which if I understand correctly uses the same driver. The light worked fine for a week then all of the sudden it started stepping down through each mode after a few seconds until it shuts off and its as if mode memory turned itself on as well. I figured it was low voltage protection so I tried a fresh cell, same thing. I am using EagleTac 16340 and Soshine 18650 cells. I do not have any unprotected cells to try as I just prefer protected ones for safety. It worked great for a week though on both cells and others have used protected cells with no issues so I doubt thats the problem. Both driver and tailcap switch retaining rings are tight and I also tried bypassing the tailcap completely with the same issues. Any ideas on a fix?
Now the driver in my BLF A6 is stuck in low mode. (wont change modes at all)
Banggood said there were going to send me a new driver, but don’t know when.
Funny, but I have a similar driver issue where there are two dim modes, a bright mode, and what appears to be a turbo mode. Pressing 15+ times the light goes off, then no blinks then after a period comes on in a dim mode. Took driver apart and connections looks good per picture at beginning of this thread. Contacted BG and sent two videos, described here, and they responded with a comment We are sorry for the inconvenience and I checked the video.But it is not very clear.Can you please check the modes according to this link: ~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk : contents of ToyKeeper/blf-a6/blf-a6.txt at revision 249 And we suggest you also check the retain ring on the tail cap and head.Make sure the switch could could working normal.
I responded that all is checked, and described the issue again suggesting they show the vids to Neal or heyanquing, and we shall see…
Something in the driver logic is not apparently triggering or the firmware is corrupted.
I have two of these lights that work fine….for the price (now $19) they work amazingly…My hat is off to the designers
Update: They sent a new driver…apparently it takes a bit of discussion, driver installed and back to good again! The new board is apparently a bit smaller diameter and has a tab on one edge to hold it under the brass clamp ring. A little strange, but it works!
