Correct, I happened to get a 7x SRK that came with “XP-L” Clones. I am gonna put some high CRI LED’s in it, just have not decided between the 219 or XP-G3.
I might even go with a mixed tint high CRI build, thinking some 3000k and 5700k 90+ CRI leds.
Very nice idea. However the 4000k nichia covers most of the spectrum. Check out this Adding Deep Red Leds for improved CRI and R9 the only missing part is the red and cyan spectrum.
I had an idea for same light of this sort with 2 red ~700nm leds, four nichia 4000k and one cyan. But it is a really complex build.
Yeah, the 219’s are great as is, although I think I would go with XP-G3’s if I went mixed tint. I have always wanted to try a mixed tint light.
In theory by mixing tints it gives it a bit of a high dynamic range picture, is still is a picture, just more of it, hard to explain any other way. At least that what I have read about them.
Used a RMM driver with moon for my SRk, and thermal paste between shelf and housing.
Now I would go for a Narsil Q8 driver.
When I started talking about SRKs I got a bit overwhelmed by negative comments from people knowing how good they were.
I got lucky and received a few with the fake XML (LaticeBright) LEDs that actually give a very nice tint.
And I really love the flood of lights like this.
Yet after reading so much posts about how good a light like this actually can be we started the Q8.
In the first post there is a list of parts and the second post is for Narsil (the software)
You could make a very nice driver.
Idk where you live but Oshpark has 3 boards as minimum so maybe good to find two others for three drivers, Narsil ia about as sweet as it can be
The LB LED’s actually throw surprisingly well. The stock LED 8x SRK’s out-throw my XM-L2 7500 lumen versions of the same lights, with half the lumens. The LB LED’s actually compare pretty well with XP-G2 LED’s from my experience until you try to push them past 2-3 amps.