Thanks, it really looks better in person. I should try to photograph it with a real camera. It took some fiddling with values, but I wound up at 120K for the blue, 68K for the orange and 44K (I think, maybe 46?) for the green. Theyāre really close to even but the blue may still be slightly brighter.
Hmmmā¦
Thatās strangeā¦
I think it should be parabolic, not with that change of curvatureā¦
Reminds me of the disappointing recoil reflector in the recoil topicā¦
And i was planning on getting a catadioptric myself, but postponing it because of disheartening shipping costsā¦
Itās as if it is not allowed to make an efficient tight beam light with a simple opticā¦
Awesome stuff guys.
I just caught up on this topic and i see great stuff being done.
So i just wanna say: :+1: :+1: :+1:
I was planning to post something about my current mod, but itās not that interesting and my camera has issuesā¦ (actually the USB cable is failing and it has XD card which fits nowhere elseā¦)
But iām doing my Jacob A60.
XP-E2 R5 1A on Noctigon and a 6x 7135 driver, which may be a bit muchā¦
Iįøæ dedoming the XP-E2 at the moment, i use a warmed up mixture of paint thinner and benzene, and this seems to work well.
A tiny and quick mod today: I wasnāt happy with the tint offering in the Nitecore TIP CRI, too warm for my taste. So I swapped a 5,700K 92CRI Nichia 219:
Disassembled
The reflector is a 2-piece design, both made from aluminium. The diameter is larger than the centering ring and has a bit of play, making the stock XP-G2 uncentered.
Nichia reflowed and tested
Removed the factory thermal glue and potted with healthy amounts of Arctic alumina epoxy.
Everything back in place
Nice nichia tint
The tint looks warmer than the picture, I suspect KD sent me a 5,000K version instead of 5,700K. But color rendition is excellent specially the reds.
Yes. I tried it without first - became basically next mode memory. Pulled it back apart and added one. Oh well. I dont think Iāve built any of these tailcaps that didnāt need the bleeder, but others report different results.
At first I didnāt use any but it didnāt work in an acceptable way. So I put a 470 in it, because thatās what I had on hand. Iāve used up to 6-700 ohms before with good results. My driver now works pretty much like the tailcap isnāt even there, although it is now possible for me to click too fast to enter the programming. I have to kinda slow down just a bit when doing those 15-or-whatever clicks or it never registers. Not a big deal at all.
thatās not corrosion, many cree leds have that and presumably itās from testing the leds at production time or some of the production steps involves using heat thatās why you have central pad discoloration