Very nice RBD.
This is going to be another masterpiece from you.
I hope so. :laughing: If you look at the middle pic you can see a step in the ID of the left hand tube end. Itās there so that the tube can slip past the pill at the driver. Both ends get reamed to that larger ID to fit the brass sleeve that joins the two pieces electrically. Clearing the pill in this instance can be accomplished by backing the pill up into the head ~1mm(the copper spacer has a hollow partially filled by a 1/4ā thick aluminum slug) or by the simple expedient of shortening the tube threads by the amount needed. I have a brass pill for this light as well that will get loaded as well so I havenāt decided which way to go or whether another option exists.
The build is coming together. This will be the back of the head, with fabricated flange and tailcap, and 6 heatsinks. C8 for scale.
How about your own thread for your build EasyB. It will make following your build easier and more interesting.
I plan to make a thread with a write-up and pictures when I finish the light.
:+1: Thanks.
Hi everybody!
Iāve been lurking here for a while and I thought what best first post than one showing my modded lights
So here they are:
On the top is a thrunite th20 which I emitter swapped to a sw57k 219b.
Left is a zebralight sc600fd, with a minus green filter on the lens to correct the greenish tint ( not cool having to do this on a $100 light :person_facepalming: , but on the other hand I love everything else about it ).
Right is a jaxman m8 with a shaved dome sw40k 219b and the convoy biscotti driver.
Here are some beamshots ( 5000k wb, from top to bottom: th20, sc600, m8 )
Now these may be some fairly simple mods, but I have a feeling I will be doing increasingly complicated stuff as I fall deeper into the rabbit hole
Great first post 1C3 :+1:
Welcome
Very nice first post
Welcome to BLF 1C3
Right on 1C3 welcome aboard the crazy train!! Now thatās a true BLFāer in the making in my book, first post in the Mod thread!
Not a group buy thread, :confounded: You gotta be impressed with that!
Pretty sweet mods to boot!
Iāve been considering this myself. With a Lee eighth minus green my sample of SC600Fd would become pretty much perfect on H-modes. Would eat about 10% of output though and isnāt quite enough to correct the lower modes which are greener.
I did an emitter and driver swap on an Ultrafire MCU-C88 that I had lying around. Replaced the original XR-E and 3 mode driver with an XM-L2 U4 and a 1.9 amp QLITE Rev.A driver.
Using lithium primary AA cells and an integrating sphere at work, it measured 123 lumens out the front with the original setup and 535 lumens after the swap.
Iām rather pleased with the upgraded performance.
Somebody (or a few hundred somebodies) needs to tell Zebralight to stop using AR-coated lenses on their high-CRI lights. :person_facepalming:
I upgraded my motherās SRK. It was completely stock, one of the first batch of SRKs available in black, and IIRC it did 2500 lumens in a cool white tint. I gave it a 32x7135 driver with the Ferrero Rocher ramping UI, which should increase output a bit and lets it ramp to any of 64 levels from moon to about 3000 lumens.
Itās pretty close to what the BLF Q8 was originally intended to be.
I think itās funny that she calls it āthe small lightā, given that a SRK is one of my biggest lights. But then, āthe big lightā is a Fenix TK75, so I guess thatās fair. Iāll have to borrow the TK75 sometime to upgrade it too. It could really use a set of XP-L HI emitters.
Your mum is a lucky girl TK. I cant imagine my mum with a light like that. Sheād probably have a heart attack.
The Ferrero Rocher firmware you used. Did it need modifying to work on the 32 x 7135 driver?
The chocolate coating needed to be reflashed.
Iāve been considering this myself. With a Lee eighth minus green my sample of SC600Fd would become pretty much perfect on H-modes. Would eat about 10% of output though and isnāt quite enough to correct the lower modes which are greener.
While I havenāt got any tools to measure the actual difference, my subjective experience is pretty similar to what you hypotesized. I used a lee filters zircon minus green 4 which should be equivalent to the 1/8 minus green and while high now looks like pure white the low modes are still a bit too greenish for my taste.
Because I mostly use the low modes, Iām thinking about trying a minus green 3, it would cut 20% output compared to stock but thatās a hardly noticeable difference in output in exchange for a big difference in tint.
Somebody (or a few hundred somebodies) needs to tell Zebralight to stop using AR-coated lenses on their high-CRI lights. :person_facepalming:
I donāt think the glass is the problem with this light, but rather the binning of the led, which puts most emitters above the bbl ( 5000k red circle in the image )
Ferrero Rocher is excellent test software. It detects cavities other software canāt detect.
While I havenāt got any tools to measure the actual difference, my subjective experience is pretty similar to what you hypotesized. I used a lee filters zircon minus green 4 which should be equivalent to the 1/8 minus green and while high now looks like pure white the low modes are still a bit too greenish for my taste.
Because I mostly use the low modes, Iām thinking about trying a minus green 3, it would cut 20% output compared to stock but thatās a hardly noticeable difference in output in exchange for a big difference in tint.
Do the Zircon filters stick to the glass lens or did you manage to remove the steel bezel from your SC600Fd and stick the filter under it?
The AR coated lenses Iāve used typically have a net effect of filtering shorter wavelengths. Maybe UCLP is better?