Some very skilled lawyers created that license specifically to make sure free software wonāt be abused. People can make and sell derivative works, but they canāt just take ā they have to give too, by releasing their changes under the same license. Thatās the foundation of the whole free software information economy. Share and share alike.
That is interesting TK, thanks, always wondered but should have figured that if I am wondering there are lawyers making sure there is no wondering about it, that is great.
Agro, I make it myself but I donāt sell it, itās still work in progress but fairly good at where it is at the moment and the O rings I make as well, got real tired of trying to find GITD O rings so made my own and they are a 1000 times better than any store bought just not as easy to work with or convenient, lots of work just to make one ring and then measure for fit and install, easy hour work.
I think itās nesessary to replace spring to a brass pill. Cutting down the driverās metal border or even more could help to win a few mm. Also a good idea to drill the hole in the pcd for inductor or make the existed hole wider under the led star in the center specially for inductor (must be something like direct connect with mcpcb) and make the other ones for wires.
The code is far from being perfect, itās more a toy than a serious develop, as author says. He doesnāt want to licence it, who would have thought but pirates must rejoy Seems that in your country thatās really hard to sell something without following intelectual property laws. I understandā¦ so if there were a licence, that would be the best solution. I may not know all the aspects but you have the source code. Who prevents you from licensing it by yourself? Who cares?
BTW, part of the difference between Test 3 and Test 4 was a cheap trick: The attiny85v has a thermal sensor and 10-bit ADC. So, I made it give me about 11 or 12 bits of precision.
(itās over-sampling and using noise to slightly increase the resolutionā¦ which may sound silly, but it improved the results so Iām keeping it that way)
Thanks! I was wondering how many amps it pulledā¦ I was guessing about 15A, so itās even higher than expected. That works out to like 75W. I added this info to the review, since I donāt have tools to measure that many amps.
Someone should make a light like this with a plastic or rubber cage round the head. The cage should be sufficient to prevent the userās fingers from directly contacting the metal in the head, while having slits to allow heat to escape.
Getting too hot to touch in 10 seconds sounds a lot like my modded DQG Tiny III 18650 with FET driver. It became such a problem that I made an external finned aluminum heatsink. Even that didnāt solve the problem, but then I painted the heatsink with paint and super-glue and installed a new button cover made out of Sugru. The light still gets too hot to touch, but now takes more like a minute to get there instead of 10 seconds. The finish on the light looks awful though.
After a couple minor tweaks, I tried a runtime test on turbo with a full 25R cell until LVP kicked in.
I had the thermal limit set to 45 C (ish) and pointed a fan at it the whole time. Output stayed fairly close to a stable level after the initial peak, but it actually got slightly brighter over time overall. I suspect this might be due to the cell voltage getting closer to the emitter Vf, so there may have been less heat. Toward the end it also becomes very clear that the thermal regulation is fighting against the typical direct-drive sag curve.
Soā¦ aside from being a little bumpy, thermal regulation seems to be working pretty well.
Test 5 looks great! And yes, a version minus fan cooling and plus hand cooling seems most realistic to me. And given the nature of this light (hotrod) I would not mind the thermal limit to be a bit over 50 degrees for some higher regulated output.
What kind of stable output are we looking at in test5 btw? My guess would be 600-ish lumen?