The Wizard has a TIR lens with built in diffusor. It should have an even tint with any possible LED.
Why don’t they just use an XHP-50.2 with high-cri? Seems more logical to me.
The Nichia requires a very special PCB to have good heatsinking. The djozz pcb used in the mod is not as good as a real DTP pcb.
Generelly I am interested though. I currently have a Wizard v1 with the XM-L2 high-cri and have been thinking of upgrading it with a XP-L2.
As to 144A vs high-cri Cree, I find Nichia usually just looks nicer, and the 144A in this optic is beautiful. Armytek uses their own MCPCBs, so there should be no issue with that for them, unlike us hobbyists.
I like my tint to be below the black body line with a rosey hue to it. I’m not seeing any rosyness in that beamshot you posted. Do you see it in person?
For reference I like the tint to be right around where the Eagtac nichia is in this chart. How does the NV4L144AR sm453 R9050 compare?
The problem here is that this LED has only two solder contacts. 50% of the heat goes through each one. It requires a very special PCB and/or a very high quality dialectric to make a good PCB for this LED.
I wonder if Armytek realizes what they need to do here.
A Wizard Pro driver won’t run it that hard. The XHP50 is 1700-1800 lumens OTF, which is doable, if a bit less efficient on a Djozz board with no direct thermal path at all.
That was the idea but Armytek refused to do so. We (me and Chouster) wanted to order a small batch with the bezel pre installed so we can install any 144AM we want. AT, dropped my request. I think it’s more about secrecy.
And yes, the dual thermal pad of 144AM is another thing to consider too. I think a better solution for us DIY-ers s to order a special bezel remover from Armytek. Freedom!! :partying_face: :laughing:
I have a Virence Tiara, thats why I am asking.
I am curious about the beam profile. My Tiara is quite floody especially due to the spacing between e21a leds.
Maybe the 144A will have a tighter hotspot?