Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.
I've already got that driver installed in a light but here's a link to the data sheet so you can see the VDD pin I'm talking about. It just needs to be isolated from the mcu either by breaking the trace or unsoldering/lifting the pin and then jumpered to B+.
Battery positive. If you use one of the 7135s that's on the battery side of the board, the jumper wire can be run from the VDD pin to the pad that the spring is soldered to.
Just be sure that the VDD pin for the 7135 you're using is disconnected from the trace on the board or it will backfeed the others and you'll lose all modes except high.
I bought this driver from kaidomain and i can't get even close to 3040ma. The maximum ma i measured(from the battery to the driver) in high mode is 1450ma. What i have done until now
I think the same, everything indicates thin wires or a bad DMM; You can try with thick wires directly to the DMM (Digital Multi Meter). I used to have this problem, I and solved it that way with 5mm² (AWG10) wires.
I have to admit i didn't thing to change my multimeter.
I have 2 multimeter
1X25usd from dx and 1X5usd?!?!? from ebay. The results i have with the first dmm is 1250ma, with the second 1100ma but with both of them(in paraller) about 2000ma (first dmm 1100ma, second dmm 900ma).
First i connected the 25usd dmm and then I connected the second.... wow the output was awesome. Since i don't own a third dmm i left the 2 dmms connected in pareller and i added a 1mm 20mm long cable in parallel too.... and wow! even more output than the 2 dmms in paraller so the mystery solved. The strange thing is that the 2 dmms was still had indications when i connected the extra cable(800ma the first and 350ma the second)
So now i need a recommendation for a multimeter(not very expensive) and thick leads for my future explorations
If DD stands for direct drive the answer is yes but as you see the problem was the dmm.
Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.
Are you sure it's the same board? It seems to have a quite different pin layout; others said so, too.
Or did you refer to the PIC version of the NANJG105(A)?
Can you take a photo of the driver?