Imalent DX80 32000 lumen monster

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hIKARInoob
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^^^

Using a different power supply makes sense, but at the same time I also see a possibility that you void warranty if something goes wrong… Has Imalent or the vendor made a statement regarding the use of a different power supply?

Edit:

Silicoon, is that abnormal behaviour you think? The light charges pretty quickly I believe; something like 3+ hours to fully charge or not? So doesn’t it make sense if the light gets a bit warm?

silicoon
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hIKARInoob wrote:
^^^

Using a different power supply makes sense, but at the same time I also see a possibility that you void warranty if something goes wrong… Has Imalent or the vendor made a statement regarding the use of a different power supply?

From BG, I wanted to try it with another AC adapter. Smile
However, I think that it is necessary to verify that there is no problem.
In my case two AC adapters can not be used and it is inevitable Crying
hIKARInoob
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Naruhodo. Big Smile

westcoastwonders
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Quote:

Using a different power supply makes sense, but at the same time I also see a possibility that you void warranty if something goes wrong… Has Imalent or the vendor made a statement regarding the use of a different power supply?

This is the email I received from banggood.

Quote:

Could you please remove the battery insulation chip inside the flashlight, like the attached picture.

Please try this way first.

Could you please take some photos to show the adapter could not work?

Did you have another adapter to work with this flashlight?

And could this flashlight modes work fine now?

I don’t know if banggood is okaying that I use a different charger.. In the manual it specifies an adapter that is 19-24V/2A. And at some point I’m sure i’m going to have to find another one if I want to use the light.

Itsme
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westcoastwonders wrote:
Quote:

Using a different power supply makes sense, but at the same time I also see a possibility that you void warranty if something goes wrong… Has Imalent or the vendor made a statement regarding the use of a different power supply?

This is the email I received from banggood.

Quote:

Could you please remove the battery insulation chip inside the flashlight, like the attached picture.

Please try this way first.

Could you please take some photos to show the adapter could not work?

Did you have another adapter to work with this flashlight?

And could this flashlight modes work fine now?

I don’t know if banggood is okaying that I use a different charger.. In the manual it specifies an adapter that is 19-24V/2A. And at some point I’m sure i’m going to have to find another one if I want to use the light.

I got the same email. My interpretation was that BG wanted me to try a different power supply with my DX80

silicoon
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In my case, I brought photo of bad AC adapter to BG first.
19-24V / 2A,unexpectedly is a decent charging circuit??

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Does Japan use 110AC or 220AC?

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westcoastwonders
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Itsme wrote:

I got the same email. My interpretation was that BG wanted me to try a different power supply with my DX80

That’s the impression I got as well. I have some 24v ones as well 18.5V ones. I’m not sure i’m going to try those yet.

dchomak
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silicoon wrote:
In my case, I brought photo of bad AC adapter to BG first. 19-24V / 2A,unexpectedly is a decent charging circuit??

The battery pack inside the light is supposedly 8 Samsung 30Q’s arranged is a 4S2P configuration.
Each 30Q is a 3000mAh cell and at 2P that would be a 6Ah pack.
So the pack is charged at 2A for 3 Hours, 10 minutes, it would fill that 6Ah pack. the extra 10 minutes accounts for losses.

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JasonWW wrote:
Does Japan use 110AC or 220AC?
Japan is US plug and 100V Smile Therefore, there are things that many of American home electronics operate as they are.
silicoon
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dchomak wrote:
silicoon wrote:
In my case, I brought photo of bad AC adapter to BG first. 19-24V / 2A,unexpectedly is a decent charging circuit??

The battery pack inside the light is supposedly 8 Samsung 30Q’s arranged is a 4S2P configuration.
Each 30Q is a 3000mAh cell and at 2P that would be a 6Ah pack.
So the pack is charged at 2A for 3 Hours, 10 minutes, it would fill that 6Ah pack. the extra 10 minutes accounts for losses.

It seems that 3A or more flows in the heat generation of The charger (19 V 3.42 A).
I want to connect the power supply on hand and see the actual amount of current,my own power supply can only limit either voltage or current.
That’s scary Big Smile
dchomak
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silicoon wrote:
dchomak wrote:
silicoon wrote:
In my case, I brought photo of bad AC adapter to BG first. 19-24V / 2A,unexpectedly is a decent charging circuit??

The battery pack inside the light is supposedly 8 Samsung 30Q’s arranged is a 4S2P configuration.
Each 30Q is a 3000mAh cell and at 2P that would be a 6Ah pack.
So the pack is charged at 2A for 3 Hours, 10 minutes, it would fill that 6Ah pack. the extra 10 minutes accounts for losses.

It seems that 3A or more flows in the heat generation of The charger (19 V 3.42 A).
I want to connect the power supply on hand and see the actual amount of current,my own power supply can only limit either voltage or current.
That’s scary Big Smile

I already tested my light, it charges at 1.91A

silicoon
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dchomak wrote:
silicoon wrote:
dchomak wrote:
silicoon wrote:
In my case, I brought photo of bad AC adapter to BG first. 19-24V / 2A,unexpectedly is a decent charging circuit??

The battery pack inside the light is supposedly 8 Samsung 30Q’s arranged is a 4S2P configuration.
Each 30Q is a 3000mAh cell and at 2P that would be a 6Ah pack.
So the pack is charged at 2A for 3 Hours, 10 minutes, it would fill that 6Ah pack. the extra 10 minutes accounts for losses.

It seems that 3A or more flows in the heat generation of The charger (19 V 3.42 A).
I want to connect the power supply on hand and see the actual amount of current,my own power supply can only limit either voltage or current.
That’s scary Big Smile
I already tested my light, it charges at 1.91A
Is it a test with sufficient capacity(A) power supply?
JasonWW
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silicoon wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Does Japan use 110AC or 220AC?
Japan is US plug and 100V Smile Therefore, there are things that many of American home electronics operate as they are.


It seems like only the 110v guys are burning up chargers. The 220v guys seem fine.

I think china is 220v so maybe imalent didn’t actually test their chargers running on 110v?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW
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dchomak wrote:
silicoon wrote:
In my case, I brought photo of bad AC adapter to BG first. 19-24V / 2A,unexpectedly is a decent charging circuit??

The battery pack inside the light is supposedly 8 Samsung 30Q’s arranged is a 4S2P configuration.
Each 30Q is a 3000mAh cell and at 2P that would be a 6Ah pack.
So the pack is charged at 2A for 3 Hours, 10 minutes, it would fill that 6Ah pack. the extra 10 minutes accounts for losses.


Are you accounting for when the charger shifts from constant amperage to constant voltage as it reaches terminal voltage? That last 10% or so goes much slower.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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dchomak
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Here is the setup I used to measure the charging current. That is a compatible plug connected to the output of the supply.

I set the output of the supply at 19.00V with a current limit of 2.00A. Those settings can be seen in the top row of the display.

With the pack at a resting voltage of 15.3V, and dividing that by 4 cells gives 3.82V/cell, I plugged in the charging cable.

Being a regulated supply, the output voltage did not drop as the flashlight drew 1.81A.
I had set the current limit to 2.00A as a precaution. If the light had asked for more than 2.00A, I could have increased the current limit in a controlled way.
When I first got the light, the pack was shipped at 14.6V or 3.65V/cell. At that voltage it charged at 1.91A

HOWEVER,
These tests DO NOT tell us what the charging current is through each cell. I did a further test and varied the input voltage to the light from 19.00V up to a high of 20.50V. Imalent states in their manual that the supply can be from 19-24V.
Notice as the voltage increases, the current into the light decreases. Then as I bring it back down, it increases again.
I even brought it down to 18.5V, perhaps duplicating what happens when a lesser power supply is under load. The current draw rises a little more to make up for the voltage drop.
Notice that during the test, the input watts doesn’t change much.

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Nice testing, good to know that it’s better to use higher voltage charger like 20V, since with original voltage drop could be under 18V and then current must be exceeding charger possibilities which results overheating and blowup finally….

dchomak
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NikolaS wrote:
Nice testing, good to know that it’s better to use higher voltage charger like 20V, since with original voltage drop could be under 18V and then current must be exceeding charger possibilities which results overheating and blowup finally….

Yeah, I think that is what is happening to the original charger.
Voltage drops, current goes up to make up the difference ———>POP!

BTW, that same phenomenon could explain why the driver popped on maiden666 light when he unscrewed the head while on.
As the battery lost contact and the resistance increased, the constant current driver saw a voltage drop and tried to increase the current draw to make up the difference. In any case, Even though Imalent upgraded the driver, I think it is still a very bad idea to unscrew the battery tube while the light is on

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Ya, that is clear that the supplied charger barely suitable for DX80.

cool i'll see you when you get there

JasonWW
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dchomak wrote:
Here is the setup I used to measure the charging current. That is a compatible plug connected to the output of the supply.


How is that measuring the output of the Imalent charger?

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silicoon
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JasonWW wrote:
silicoon wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Does Japan use 110AC or 220AC?
Japan is US plug and 100V Smile Therefore, there are things that many of American home electronics operate as they are.


It seems like only the 110v guys are burning up chargers. The 220v guys seem fine.

I think china is 220v so maybe imalent didn’t actually test their chargers running on 110v?

I thought about the same thing.
However, I think that it is low quality if it changes with the input voltage though it is a switching power supply.
Considering the manual specification and unnatural packing, At first was not planning to put in an AC adapter,but feel the possibility that wanted to enter later.
If this is the case, it is a haphazard imalent Sick
silicoon
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dchomak wrote:

HOWEVER,
These tests DO NOT tell us what the charging current is through each cell. I did a further test and varied the input voltage to the light from 19.00V up to a high of 20.50V. Imalent states in their manual that the supply can be from 19-24V.
Notice as the voltage increases, the current into the light decreases. Then as I bring it back down, it increases again.
I even brought it down to 18.5V, perhaps duplicating what happens when a lesser power supply is under load. The current draw rises a little more to make up for the voltage drop.
Notice that during the test, the input watts doesn’t change much.

Thank you Smile It was very helpful.
DX80 charging circuit, design may be good.
The attached AC adapter was about 40℃.But it broke down Sick
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Fine charging so far in the Uk, apart from a plastic cap blunder

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV

dchomak
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KG_Tuning wrote:
Fine charging so far in the Uk, apart from a plastic cap blunder

Now I can stop laughing at myself and laugh at you. Innocent

JasonWW wrote:

How is that measuring the output of the Imalent charger?

Well, it doesn’t.

What it does, is allow me to infer what the supplied charger charges at.
When I first got mine, while the supplied charger was still working, I measured the open circuit voltage. It was 19.5V
From my test we now know what the light will draw at all input voltages between 18.5-20.5V. Never does it exceed 2.0A, the supposed rating of the wall wart.
Therefore I can also infer that the problem with the chargers blowing, is not the light drawing more than the rated capacity of the charger, but rather the supplied charger is a piece of JUNK.
After all the other things that went wrong, they chose an off the shelf charger, probably giving no thought to it’s quality or suitability.

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Feel free to remove this comment but does anyone else find it hard to time the double press for Turbo?

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV

dchomak
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KG_Tuning wrote:
Feel free to remove this comment but does anyone else find it hard to time the double press for Turbo?

If it is easy to change modes with a single click with no problems, then I would say the switch makes good contact with each press.
Maybe a double click requires timing. I know a double click brings you straight to Turbo. Did you know a triple click brings up the volt meter?
How does the triple click work for you?

westcoastwonders
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Is anyone else experiencing this. It dissipates after a few minutes with the light off.

Shows up after running the light on high for a min or so.

dchomak wrote:
Here is the setup I used to measure the charging current. That is a compatible plug connected to the output of the supply.

Great info. So it could theoretically work with a 18.5V adapter I have.

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westcoastwonders wrote:
Is anyone else experiencing this. It dissipates after a few minutes with the light off.

Shows up after running the light on high for a min or so.

dchomak wrote:
Here is the setup I used to measure the charging current. That is a compatible plug connected to the output of the supply.

Great info. So it could theoretically work with a 18.5V adapter I have.

My TK75 gets that, it’s because it was put together in a humid environment, it’s ugly but I don’t think it affects the output much or at all.

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I had already cut the plug off my blown charger because I don’t need a replacement.
My curiosity got the better of me, so tonight I popped the housing off the wall wart to see what happened when it blew.

Earlier I called this charger a piece of junk, but I must say it looks pretty sophisticated.

This is the output end of the board.

Those 2 red wires lead to the 120VAC plug. I take it N and L stand for Neutral and Line.

Here is the evidence off what caused the failure. Those 3 leads all in a row belong to a heat sinked semiconductor on the other side.
It looks like that part got so hot that the solder melted. It looks as though it may have flowed into that resistor.
Also, above it R10, R9 and R8 over heated.

This is the semicon that over heated, but there is a big capacitor blocking the part number.

So I removed it. I looked it up, a 5N60C is a 600V MOSFET.

That capacitor I removed is rated at 400V.

After looking at the board some more, I’m not as sure that solder melted. It may be just the resistors that are bad.
All three are in parallel, which means that they did that to increase the wattage of the resistance called for in the design.

So it blew at the 120VAC end of the circuit, not the 19V end. Not what I was expecting to see.

Now I wish I could get a look at one before it blew.

dchomak
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Yeah, mine did that the first time I used it. I think by now that humidity has been baked out of it.

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