- I read about a magnetic tail cap before.
And other stuff too
- I suggested a back and forward clipp.
- Slots for tritts
lanyard hole
But you rarely hear something from the dev. team. (As I understand The Miller does more general communication)
Not one word what they think about it.
Also silence in the german forum.
I find that quite frustrating.
I dont think it would be much larger.
CRX solution has the same size, for a smaller lamp.
We have a 18650
As comparison a Skilhunt H03 Magnet is
16 x 2 mm with a 0,5mm thick cap on it
If we want it super sticky we can go with 3 or 4mm thicknes.
From the drawing, there is the switch cover missing, but I guess 1 to 2mm is needed.
If the lamp is 4-5mm longer and I can chose between a magnetic and non magnetic tail without altering the length and optic I would go with 5mm more.
Hi, if you look at the cross section of the light you see that itās not easy to put a magnet under the switch. The actual switch would need to have to parts of you donāt want the magnet to be visible from the outside.
Regarding the slots for tritium vitals - most of the buyers would probably not use the slots, so I think itās a better solution to see if one of the modding guys here can come up with a switch that has tritium slots milled in.
Also, the design is pretty much decided on right now. The clip is as it was designed but weāll look into the possibility to make it mountable between head and body as well if it does not bring any significant design changes to the design.
About muggle mode, there seem to be three ideas floating around:
Single-mode on/off at ~150 lm. (already implemented)
Idea #1, but add hold-to-ramp from ~5 lm to ~300 lm.
Clicks cycle through 2-3 levels like a common cheap light. Order/spacing not yet determined.
To exit muggle mode, itās currently āloosen+tighten the tubeā.
Fortunately, a factory reset shouldnāt be needed. It might be possible since itās a thing people seem to like, but the settings arenāt particularly botchable.
However, it occurs to me that loosening the tube will also physically disconnect the buttonā¦ and when tightening the tube there may be no way to ensure that the button will connect before power. So, it may be a good idea to avoid anything which involves button-press detection at boot, and anything which involves clicking the button while power is disconnected.
The Miller, I only see myself on the list for one. Can you please add me for a second (two total) when you get a chance? Gotta have one to give my dad Thanks!
I like the idea of Muggle mode being single mode off and on (and more accessible than going into programming settings) and Muggle friendly mode groups and configurable ramping seems ideal if itās going to be a gift.
The FW3A comes with a pocket clip. The D4 requires modā to get one on it. Itās my biggest gripe with the D4. Small EDC pocket lights require a clip and need to have it designed in, not added as a kludge add-on. Itās aggravating when a light can be so good yet miss something so simple.
The FW3A is far more cost effective at 1/2 the price of the D4.
The solution is easy. A few minutes to explain how the light works. Heck, Narsil isnāt difficult. If someone canāt grasp it they probably should hand the light to someone capable of understanding the extremely simple UI to keep them out of trouble.
Thatās why there are junk lights in the hardware store. For folks like that.