I ordered on a week or so ago, I hope it doesn’t turn out like yours. I’m sure it’s something simple.
A couple of lights that I have gotten in the past from various places did the same thing, I clicked the switch a couple times fast and I would bring them right to life with no problems since, and that was for the very first start up.
I ordered on a week or so ago, I hope it doesn’t turn out like yours. I’m sure it’s something simple.
A couple of lights that I have gotten in the past from various places did the same thing, I clicked the switch a couple times fast and I would bring them right to life with no problems since, and that was for the very first start up.
Good luck.
Keep us updated.
Funner wrote:
Did you click the button on the tail(ON/OFF) button?
Is your battery charged?
Tried with two fully charged INR18650-30Q, one button top, one flat.
Checked continuity and voltage with the light head off – Good
Checked amp draw with tailcap draw using DMM as switch, pulled .177A and no more, tapping to change modes does nothing.
Tightened all holding rings, nothing
I just finished taking the entire light apart and cleaned the sloppy mess of thermal compound off and am reassembling now, but I dont have alot of faith.
I ordered on a week or so ago, I hope it doesn’t turn out like yours. I’m sure it’s something simple.
A couple of lights that I have gotten in the past from various places did the same thing, I clicked the switch a couple times fast and I would bring them right to life with no problems since, and that was for the very first start up.
Good luck.
Keep us updated.
Funner wrote:
Did you click the button on the tail(ON/OFF) button?
Is your battery charged?
Tried with two fully charged INR18650-30Q, one button top, one flat.
Checked continuity and voltage with the light head off – Good
Checked amp draw with tailcap draw using DMM as switch, pulled .177A and no more, tapping to change modes does nothing.
Tightened all holding rings, nothing
I just finished taking the entire light apart and cleaned the sloppy mess of thermal compound off and am reassembling now, but I dont have alot of faith.
Really, REALLY angry and dissapointed.
Hi
If you get any problem with the flashlight, you can send an video to show what is the problem with the light.
All the flashlights are being well tested before we had shipped out.
It has a lower chance to get both of the flashlights are having problem in the same package.
I ordered on a week or so ago, I hope it doesn’t turn out like yours. I’m sure it’s something simple.
A couple of lights that I have gotten in the past from various places did the same thing, I clicked the switch a couple times fast and I would bring them right to life with no problems since, and that was for the very first start up.
Good luck.
Keep us updated.
Funner wrote:
Did you click the button on the tail(ON/OFF) button?
Is your battery charged?
Tried with two fully charged INR18650-30Q, one button top, one flat.
Checked continuity and voltage with the light head off – Good
Checked amp draw with tailcap draw using DMM as switch, pulled .177A and no more, tapping to change modes does nothing.
Tightened all holding rings, nothing
I just finished taking the entire light apart and cleaned the sloppy mess of thermal compound off and am reassembling now, but I dont have alot of faith.
Really, REALLY angry and dissapointed.
Hi
If you get any problem with the flashlight, you can send an video to show what is the problem with the light.
All the flashlights are being well tested before we had shipped out.
It has a lower chance to get both of the flashlights are having problem in the same package.
Sounds like you got a dud. Very unusual in the KD light range.
I’ve had no issues at all, apart from 3-4 yrs ago when a drop-in for their C8 flickered like a *****. They sent a replacement no questions asked. That was surprising, to be honest.
Well, I hope it comes to just shipping a replacement, or at this point a full refund like I initially requested before it shipped. Since posting the video they asked for a tail amp reading and then silence.
I knew there was potential for problems, but its just been one thing after another and it sucks.
Review : KDLITKER C8.2 xhp50.2 Flashlight was provided by Kaidomain for review purposes
George, (or anyone who has this) Do you happen to have any convoy C8 to check if the bezel will lego with this? I’d like to get this and add the convoy SS bezel.
Just checked the bezel , diameter and threads are the same , but Convoy bezel can't screw all the way down, leaving a 2mm gap .
Thanks for the review. Finally I need to get one for myself. I just hope that they have some warmer tints for snow season use.
Review : KDLITKER C8.2 xhp50.2 Flashlight was provided by Kaidomain for review purposes
George, (or anyone who has this) Do you happen to have any convoy C8 to check if the bezel will lego with this? I’d like to get this and add the convoy SS bezel.
Just checked the bezel , diameter and threads are the same , but Convoy bezel can’t screw all the way down, leaving a 2mm gap .
Thanks for the review. Finally I need to get one for myself. I just hope that they have some warmer tints for snow season use.
It is available in 3 tints : 3000K , 5000K , 6500K
I’m just personally not very interested in the XHP35-HI version. I jumped on the first C8.2 because I tend to reach for high output lights because they’re fun. It also suits my purposes because I didn’t need throw, but I wanted at least a little more reach than my BLF A6. To me, the C8.2 with the XHP35-HI is in a weird spot because it’s a large emitter made for more throw, but the C8.2 doesn’t have a reflector large enough to really leverage it and you’re probably getting less throw than something like a D1S. So it’s basically for people that don’t need an incredible thrower and value overall brightness, but feel the XHP50 variant is just a bit too floody. Again I’m not one to value throw highly, but if I were to use the XHP35-HI I’d get it in a larger reflector
I do love the C8.2 though especially how it barely warms up even when hitting 2k lumens. The beam is very like the BLF Q8, but in a smaller form-factor. It is sad to see people experiencing issues with Kaidomain though. My only issues have been slow shipping times and missing or unusable tracking #s.
I just got my C8.2 xhp50.2 in yesterday. It’s awesome.
No problems what so ever. I put a Nitecore 3400 18650 in it. Throw and flood is better than I could have imagined.
These new led’s/lights have completely amazed me.
The C8.2 is one cool light.
Man I’m happy for you, I wish mine worked but things just haven’t worked out. I had no recent correspondence regarding a replacement so I filed a charge back through my credit card company per PayPal.
Still sad it didn’t work out, but I guess I’ll just turn it into a xpl-hi and fet combo
Would anyone know if in HI mode this light has a timer to step down?
I looked on their site and found nothing.
Apparently not, I believe it employs the H1-A driver, and there’s nothing shown about step down in its description either.
.
According to this statement in post #57 of this thread the H1-A doesn’t have step down, only LVP@3V:
“H1-A maintains regulated output until input voltage hits 3V, at which point it begins to taper the output down as to maintain the 3V on the input, it cuts off somewhere below 100mA on the output, once input can no longer hold 3V.”
.
Also in this driver thread the KD’s H1-A and H2-C are the first two drivers tested, he shows a step down for the H2-C but not for the H1-A.
I guess that could be a good thing or a bad thing, depends how you look at it.
Would anyone know if in HI mode this light has a timer to step down?
I looked on their site and found nothing.
Apparently not, I believe it employs the H1-A driver, and there’s nothing shown about step down in its description either.
.
According to this statement in post #57 of this thread the H1-A doesn’t have step down, only LVP@3V:
“H1-A maintains regulated output until input voltage hits 3V, at which point it begins to taper the output down as to maintain the 3V on the input, it cuts off somewhere below 100mA on the output, once input can no longer hold 3V.”
.
Also in this driver thread the KD’s H1-A and H2-C are the first two drivers tested, he shows a step down for the H2-C but not for the H1-A.
I guess that could be a good thing or a bad thing, depends how you look at it.
My guess is it was the protected Nitecore 3400 battery causing this. So I swapped over to the
Samsung 18650 20A 30Q and it’s working fine now.
Thanks
Any chance you have an XPL-HI light to compare this to? Curious how they compare in range and wideness of bright spot.
I have a S2+ and some P60’s. I will give you my thoughts when I get back in town tomorrow evening.
The size of the C8.2 is small enough for a side carpenter pocket. I have been running it on low or low2 since it is very bright up close on high.
Later
Not a very happy camper here, my C8.2 just arrived, and it doesnt work.
Im systematically taking it apart and testing things. the tailswitch and soldering seems fine, but other than that not sure what else to check.
Put the battery into it and used a Fluke DMM and its only passing .177A and doesnt seem to change modes.
Did you click the button on the tail(ON/OFF) button?
Is your battery charged?
In all seriousness, that sucks.
I ordered on a week or so ago, I hope it doesn’t turn out like yours. I’m sure it’s something simple.
A couple of lights that I have gotten in the past from various places did the same thing, I clicked the switch a couple times fast and I would bring them right to life with no problems since, and that was for the very first start up.
Good luck.
Keep us updated.
Tried with two fully charged INR18650-30Q, one button top, one flat.
Checked continuity and voltage with the light head off – Good
Checked amp draw with tailcap draw using DMM as switch, pulled .177A and no more, tapping to change modes does nothing.
Tightened all holding rings, nothing
I just finished taking the entire light apart and cleaned the sloppy mess of thermal compound off and am reassembling now, but I dont have alot of faith.
Really, REALLY angry and dissapointed.
do someone have xhp50 and xhp35-hi version ?
can we see a beamshot comparison ?
Hi
If you get any problem with the flashlight, you can send an video to show what is the problem with the light.
All the flashlights are being well tested before we had shipped out.
It has a lower chance to get both of the flashlights are having problem in the same package.
Thank you
Ban
kaidomain.com KD - LED Flashlights, DIY Parts and Accessories
Inquiry for KD, please feel free to contact me.
One flashlight, video emailed to your support, and posted : https://youtu.be/nnsT4aObHzs
Okay
Our support will take a look on that and help to solve out the problem.
Thank you
kaidomain.com KD - LED Flashlights, DIY Parts and Accessories
Inquiry for KD, please feel free to contact me.
Well, I hope it comes to just shipping a replacement, or at this point a full refund like I initially requested before it shipped. Since posting the video they asked for a tail amp reading and then silence.
I knew there was potential for problems, but its just been one thing after another and it sucks.
Bought 2 C8.2 XHP35 and one of them has intermittent issues.
Just threw it one corner.
Kinda disappointed with their products as it’s my first flashlight purchase from them.
Gonna stick to Convoy or Jaxman,
So, they have me checking different things and we know the driver board is dead, but how do I check if the LED is dead?
I suppose continuity?
Im requesting a new LED either way, but would like to be sure.
Edit: They said theyre sending me a new drop in.
I had followed your case. And we had decided to send the replacement LED drop-in to you.
If you want to test your LED is working fine or not, you can use your digital meter to check with it.
Thank you
kaidomain.com KD - LED Flashlights, DIY Parts and Accessories
Inquiry for KD, please feel free to contact me.
BanL,
Thank you and your team for me!
Thanks for the review. Finally I need to get one for myself. I just hope that they have some warmer tints for snow season use.
It is available in 3 tints : 3000K , 5000K , 6500K
http://kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.kdlitker%20c8.2%20cree%20xhp50.2
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
BanL or anyone, I’d like to know the distance spec. (meters) or Kcd (or both) for C8.2 XHP35 HI
This one:
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S027411.KDLITKER-C8_2-Cree-XHP35-HI-Neutral-W...LED-Flashlight-Black
Im thinking that none of these mods are truly tested, and if they are, its from BLF or CPF members.
I’m just personally not very interested in the XHP35-HI version. I jumped on the first C8.2 because I tend to reach for high output lights because they’re fun. It also suits my purposes because I didn’t need throw, but I wanted at least a little more reach than my BLF A6. To me, the C8.2 with the XHP35-HI is in a weird spot because it’s a large emitter made for more throw, but the C8.2 doesn’t have a reflector large enough to really leverage it and you’re probably getting less throw than something like a D1S. So it’s basically for people that don’t need an incredible thrower and value overall brightness, but feel the XHP50 variant is just a bit too floody. Again I’m not one to value throw highly, but if I were to use the XHP35-HI I’d get it in a larger reflector
I do love the C8.2 though especially how it barely warms up even when hitting 2k lumens. The beam is very like the BLF Q8, but in a smaller form-factor. It is sad to see people experiencing issues with Kaidomain though. My only issues have been slow shipping times and missing or unusable tracking #s.
Just to update.
Have heard nothing regarding my replacement drop in, no tracking, no email correspondence, nothing.
About to open another PP claim because this is beyond ridiculous
I just got my C8.2 xhp50.2 in yesterday. It’s awesome.
No problems what so ever. I put a Nitecore 3400 18650 in it. Throw and flood is better than I could have imagined.
These new led’s/lights have completely amazed me.
The C8.2 is one cool light.
Man I’m happy for you, I wish mine worked but things just haven’t worked out. I had no recent correspondence regarding a replacement so I filed a charge back through my credit card company per PayPal.
Still sad it didn’t work out, but I guess I’ll just turn it into a xpl-hi and fet combo
Would anyone know if in HI mode this light has a timer to step down?
I looked on their site and found nothing.
Apparently not, I believe it employs the H1-A driver, and there’s nothing shown about step down in its description either.
.
According to this statement in post #57 of this thread the H1-A doesn’t have step down, only LVP@3V:
“H1-A maintains regulated output until input voltage hits 3V, at which point it begins to taper the output down as to maintain the 3V on the input, it cuts off somewhere below 100mA on the output, once input can no longer hold 3V.”
.
Also in this driver thread the KD’s H1-A and H2-C are the first two drivers tested, he shows a step down for the H2-C but not for the H1-A.
I guess that could be a good thing or a bad thing, depends how you look at it.
My guess is it was the protected Nitecore 3400 battery causing this. So I swapped over to the
Samsung 18650 20A 30Q and it’s working fine now.
Thanks
You’re saying it has a timed step down now??
The Nitecore had 3.90v and the light started to shut off after 5 secs. It was going off after 15 then 10 then 5.
I swapped it out for the Samsung and now it’s good.
I believe the light didn’t like the Nitecore.
Any chance you have an XPL-HI light to compare this to? Curious how they compare in range and wideness of bright spot.
I have a S2+ and some P60’s. I will give you my thoughts when I get back in town tomorrow evening.
The size of the C8.2 is small enough for a side carpenter pocket. I have been running it on low or low2 since it is very bright up close on high.
Later
I’d say the Nitecore’s protection circuit was tripping from the amperage draw.
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