Thanks again! I’ve updated my list and script so it can find these two, and more generally so that it can match names which are longer than what BLF displays in the post header.
For now, I’m making a thing to verify each name matches someone who posted in the thread. That should help. It may also help with matching up requests to the posts where they were made.
…
Edit: It found 23 name errors and I fixed all but 4. I don’t see posts in this thread from:
ManWithoutShadow
Petroleum Lantern Guy
Rick
Throw me in to darkness …
It looks like the posts or accounts may have been deleted.
For now, I’m making a thing to verify each name matches someone who posted in the thread. That should help. It may also help with matching up requests to the posts where they were made.
…
Edit: It found 23 name errors and I fixed all but 4. I don’t see posts in this thread from:
ManWithoutShadow
Petroleum Lantern Guy
Rick
Throw me in to darkness …
It looks like the posts or accounts may have been deleted.
I had to add spaces to my name “Man Without Shadow”
—
When I'm spending mon€yfoolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...
I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...
Fritz made it, people loved it, the idea was born to make it available… first a small batch then a production run. But all along, the idea was…
“For a lot of us mere mortals, seeing the cool things machinists make on their lathe is just a dream.
Hence the finish of the FW3A will be clear anodisation, no sanding/beadblasting before anodisation.
The idea is to give all the chance to have a light looking like it came of a lathe with the protection of anodisation.”
Agreed. I will take whatever comes for $30, but my real preference is the original raw finish, showing precision manufacture. Ideally with true deep HA3 mil spec ano, greenish but un-dyed, but that could cost. Bead blast and cheap (edit) clear or dyed ano. not my thing, covers up a multitude of sins and is weak, easily scratched, best taken off and polished to bare alloy. It’s what many are used to, but the real deal is quite different.
The taper on the head looks good to me, comfortable, and maybe adds a tiny bit of extra thermal mass.
I withdraw my doubts about the thin-walled co-ax tubes (assuming a decent strong heat-treated alloy is specified), tail e-switch etc. these are what makes it special and unique. Well done Fritz. And the team.
I like the bead blasted version better.
You get also a better anodisation. Without, the ano tend to chip off on sharp edges. Blasting remove burrs and rounds edges a bit. It covers also scratches.
A skilled machinist deburrs his stuff. With the automated machining stations and no blasting we maybe get sharp edges?
However the FW3A has a clear ano you wil see a worn ano barely.
sorry i have not follow this thread last several months
It will probably take a while to be able to do that mate! The project has not fully advanced, some details are still to decide! Let’s cross the fingers
@ FW3A Team, I sent “you” a PM
Will be looking for your reply whenever it is possible!! Thanks in advance!!
I don’t think anyone actually checks that… or even logs in at all, except on rare occasions to post progress updates or edit the top post. It may get used more later, but for now it’s mostly a placeholder.
I don’t think anyone actually checks that… or even logs in at all, except on rare occasions to post progress updates or edit the top post. It may get used more later, but for now it’s mostly a placeholder.
Thanks TK for the answer! I also thought that but still, I tried !
Shall I PM Fritz or and “individual” member to place my questions, then?
Excellent, a good design decision. Looking forward to adjustable strobes!
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
Thanks again! I’ve updated my list and script so it can find these two, and more generally so that it can match names which are longer than what BLF displays in the post header.
I think everyone is now accounted for.
One is fine. I thought that I had enetered this, but didn’t find my name on list. Now I see it there, thanks!
https://hierojahelander.fi
O. K.
Here I continue, I continue.
once every 7 days.
Greetings and thanks.
pepinfaxera
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
I think “Man Without Shadow” has spaces in between the words,
if that mattersHere you go http://budgetlightforum.com/user/22767Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
Oops, I guess I skipped through a few of the posts. Thanks
I had to add spaces to my name “Man Without Shadow”
When I'm spending mon€y foolishly, I like to do it wi$ely...
I have all the flashlights I need, but not as many as I want...
How about a member called “- Rick -”? Without the spaces. I can’t make it any closer, or it will be Rick-crossed-out.
Reminds me of the “good” old days with DOS & SHMBO. The smallest error results in a “command unknown” respons.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1120877#comment-1120877
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread // WTS Brand New Timex Expedition Vibe Shock Camo Watch (USA only)
Thank you!
Go to bed!
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Hello! ToyKeeper, could you please add me to the list for 2 of these. Thanks!
Pending
1 please
Agreed. I will take whatever comes for $30, but my real preference is the original raw finish, showing precision manufacture. Ideally with true deep HA3 mil spec ano, greenish but un-dyed, but that could cost. Bead blast and cheap (edit) clear or dyed ano. not my thing, covers up a multitude of sins and is weak, easily scratched, best taken off and polished to bare alloy. It’s what many are used to, but the real deal is quite different.
The taper on the head looks good to me, comfortable, and maybe adds a tiny bit of extra thermal mass.
I withdraw my doubts about the thin-walled co-ax tubes (assuming a decent strong heat-treated alloy is specified), tail e-switch etc. these are what makes it special and unique. Well done Fritz. And the team.
Now Lumintop, do this justice please.
I can wait until it is right.
Im in for one of these. Seems like a neat light to add to my collection. Anduril in a nice, clean triple EDC sounds awesome.
The clear ano will be really nice too.
Looks cool! I’m in for one if not too late.
I like the bead blasted version better.
You get also a better anodisation. Without, the ano tend to chip off on sharp edges. Blasting remove burrs and rounds edges a bit. It covers also scratches.
A skilled machinist deburrs his stuff. With the automated machining stations and no blasting we maybe get sharp edges?
However the FW3A has a clear ano you wil see a worn ano barely.
how left until we can purchase the light?
sorry i have not follow this thread last several months
Nico -.-
It will probably take a while to be able to do that mate! The project has not fully advanced, some details are still to decide! Let’s cross the fingers
@ FW3A Team, I sent “you” a PM
Will be looking for your reply whenever it is possible!! Thanks in advance!!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
I don’t think anyone actually checks that… or even logs in at all, except on rare occasions to post progress updates or edit the top post. It may get used more later, but for now it’s mostly a placeholder.
Interest list updated.
It also handles cancellations now, and has had known cancellations applied. Request numbers may have shifted.
- TK
FW3A thread – contact Neal on BLF or email for FW3A questions and support
Just stumbled here. Interested.
I didn’t read every page.
What is the IP rating expected to be?
And will there be a 18350 body?
There is no IP rating specified,
but front lens and head has an o-ring. The switch IMHO has a membrane.
No short tube planned at the moment.
I think this lamp is worth buying of the user interface alone.
In for 2
Thanks TK for the answer! I also thought that but still, I tried !
Shall I PM Fritz or and “individual” member to place my questions, then?
Thank you
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
interested if not too late….
Have payment method been determined yet? Will be Paypal / Western Union only again?
I’m just curious, not sure if this has been answered.
The FW3A main selling point seems to be the driver firmware (Anduril?).
But I was wondering if there’s an approximate CRI value for the 3x XP-G3s?
I don’t think they have decided on what exact led to use yet.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
The payment methods aren’t yet determined.
The LED details aren’t yet determined.
There are no plans to make an 18350 version.
The main selling points, off the top of my head:
It’s not just one thing… it’s meant to be a good all-around EDC light, something to be used heavily.
And I think if it sells well, they might make it from titanium, brass, or copper in the future. I’m looking forward to those.
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