I agree that more CRI (red lumens) means less Bright (green lumens), for equal runtime, or the high CRI can be as bright as the Low CRI, but trades for less runtime, to get High CRI at same brightness
and agree High CRI is often warmer CCT (4000k) than Cool White (6000k)
how many lumens do you need and what color temperature do you like?
in my experience, green tint is much more common with Cree than Nichia, and green tint is much more common on cooler lights than warmer ones. I would go so far as to say green tint is more common with Low CRI
intensity sounds like lumens, so thats already covered above, or Im unclear on the difference
HDS makes the same light w N219b 4000k High CRI, max output 200 lumens for 1 hour, or XP-G2 6000k low CRI 250 lumens for 1 hour, with green tint. Same body, same reflector, same battery, same size, same weight, identical except for 50 low cri lumens.
I would take the N219b, but, most people will say they want the one with the most throw, so they will buy the green tinted low cri, since they dont understand those details. And they certainly have no idea that the R9 values are vastly different.
Once they get the memo that High CRI makes for hotter Sex, they might begin to appreciate the waste of 50 green tinted low cri lumens.
another example
I have an Olight S Mini Low CRI, Cool White, green tint, and an
S1 Mini High CRI, Cool White green tint.
I use the High CRI more, almost never use turbo on either light, most of my use is indoors, close range, lower levels. CRI is the deal Maker for my usage scenario.
If you use the light in the bedroom, CRI rules
If youre just strobing cars to direct traffic, then Low CRI is much more aggravating, brighter, and may or may not elicit compliance sooner
marketing spin
High CRI is Sexier than Low CRI!
lol